Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

ShootEm

Members
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ShootEm

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Interests
    Frisbee golf, photography, board games, autocross, iPhone programming.
  • Real Name
    Aamir Z

Recent Profile Visitors

431 profile views
  1. I'm going to try Inline Fabrication's lighting system to get a better view inside the charged case. I haven't gotten my bullet feeder to work reliably anyway, so that's another reason to remove it from the system. It sure does move things along when it works though.
  2. I actually tried that recently. I was getting a ring around the nose of my Berry's bullets after the seating/crimping. I've read on forums that that's a cosmetic issue only, but it sure doesn't look right when I'm used to not seeing it.
  3. ShootEm

    P320 X5 Thread

    When I first got my X5, my 125-130 PF loads wouldn't eject. Today I fired 50 rounds of factory ammo, then tried my lighter loads again. This time, the cases ejected, but the slide wouldn't lock back. Do I just need to put more higher power rounds through it? The slide locks back fine with my factory 145-150 PF ammo.
  4. ShootEm

    P320 X5 Thread

    From the GGuns product page: "P320 Trigger Specifications and Features Full compatibility within the P320 system, all sizes and all calibers, including the P320 X5 released in April 2017 Reduces total trigger pull weight approximately 2 pounds below factory-stock for the standard series, and about 1.25 pounds for the X5 variant."
  5. Thanks for all the tips! I tried using case lube for a while (even though all my dies are carbide), but it seemed to slow me down a bit at the end by having to wipe off all the lube. Do you wipe off your lube at the end?
  6. From a forum post in firingline.com : "The Vihtavuori powders are extruded but most of them are small enough granulations that they meter well." I'm not opposed to switching powders, but my early loads with my current recipe shot well. I think my problem has more to do with, as you say, not checking the powder charges meticulously, as well as the bushing issue WarrenZ mentioned. Does the skylight kit work any better than wearing a headlight?
  7. SWMBO? Lots of great tips there - thanks! Besides cases tilting, I also have occasions where a case fails to drop on one stroke, then two cases drop on the next stroke. Any fix for that? I actually limit myself to only 100 rounds, but I've been having so many issues with my press lately it can take me all day just to get that many! I've had primer feeding issues which have caused crushed primers which have jammed up the whole priming system (I even broke the plastic piece once and bent it a second time until I figured out that problem). It's been terribly frustrating. On a separate note, I have my reloading bench in the garage, and after a typically humid Oregon winter, I noticed the outside of my competition seating die show some mild rust. I guess I need to oil the surfaces down a bit during the (never-ending) rain season.
  8. I shoot some IDPA, so I don't have a problem doing division-capacity reloads, but IDPA stages seem easier, plus I only need two mag pouches there, not 4 or 5 wrapped all the way around my back. I find reaching all the way back for a mag to be more challenging.
  9. On a related note, I've now decided to separate my brass out before my first wet tumble to avoid this issue. It's been a time saver to just do all the tumbling at once, but I may be paying a price for it.
  10. I've had problems getting the bullet loader working consistently anyway, and I realize I'm new to this, so I don't take your constructive criticism personally. I feel like I've set up the die properly, but I often find a bullet has gotten stuck inside the collet, and I end up using the long end of an Allen wrench to poke the bullet up above the lower collet. This will make things work again for a while, but the same issue happens after 5, 10, or 15 more rounds. It sure is nice when the bullet feeder is working properly.
  11. Ok, so what other issues besides a light or absent charge can cause a squib load? I clearly have an issue with my powder drop, as I mentioned above. I'm pretty sure my cases are dry, but now that I think about it, there are times when I notice some 9's stuck inside my 40's when I get the brass out of the dryer, and I notice a few drops of water remain inside the larger case once I separate them (although I've only been reloading 9's so far).
  12. I'll look into the light system. I do find it hard to get a good look inside the case, even wearing a headlight. I only listen to music when I reload.
  13. I use a Frankfort Arsenal brass dryer after I wet tumble, so I don't think that's an issue. I've had an issue with my LNL where my powder drop is really cramped between the neighboring dies. I don't know how familiar you are with the LNL press, but the dies are screwed into a bushing which is then engaged into the press with a twist. On occasion, I've noticed that the powder drop bushing gets untwisted, and when that happens, the stroke of the press merely pushes the die up and doesn't fully activate the powder drop. Once I notice this, I stop the process and retwist the bushing. Once I notice that, I'll pull the bullets of the last several rounds to be sure they haven't been improperly filled, but there are times when I've already completed a large number of rounds, and I never really know how many rounds may have been underfilled. It's quite possible that under these circumstances, I haven't pulled enough rounds and some have slipped through the cracks. I've been a lot more meticulous about checking every round on the progressive, but I'd prefer to take some human error out of the equation with a lockout die, which would also allow me produce ammo more rapidly.
  14. Good suggestion. Maybe be this is overkill, but I've been tumbling my brass twice, once with just detergent to just get all the range dirt off, then again with stainless steel after depriming to clean out the primer pockets and the inside of the cases more thoroughly. I've been using the Lee decapper die to do it this way, but I'm like your idea of using my resizing die in this step and freeing up a station.
×
×
  • Create New...