EngineerEli

Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I'm not understanding why this is a problem. Is this not basically the same thing the little tube/collar does in the GGI competition trigger kits???

I found some time and went back and re-faced the primary sear edge with the screw in an 1/8th turn. Re polished everything and broke the edge between the two sear surfaces with the white stone. Trigger pull dropped to 2 lb 10 oz, and this is with the first stage increased to about 9 oz, which feels much better. I think I'll leave it here for a little while, haven't had the chance to go test it out at the range yet, but I have not been able to educe any malfunctions manually. I'm wondering if as the trigger job sets in a little more if the pull will drop slightly more... Is that common? Thanks for the help everyone!

Hmmm, I like that idea, very linear... ?

Well, I went back and adjusted the center and left legs of the spring to mirror my SV, which helped a bit. I checked pull required to make the trigger start moving in the first stage ~6 oz , then I held the hammer to the rear and checked the pull required to make the trigger start moving into the second stage ~14-15 oz (move the sear) I then went back and rounded the edge between the primary and secondary angles of my sear with my white extra fine stone. and polished with mothers and a q tip stick. Result is 2 lb 15 oz. Its an improvement, but I think when time permits, I need to go back and turn the screw in 1-8th turn and re-set my primary sear angle a tiny bit. Its still exceptionally crisp. (too crisp?) Difference between first stage and second stage (break) is too great.

So I finished my first attempt with the sear last night, and I'm less than thrilled... It is perfectly crisp, and no creep, but the trigger went up from 2# 9oz to 3# 12oz... I made no other adjustments, does this mean I need to go back and turn the screw in an eighth, or a quarter and put a new primary edge on the sear? Seems like maybe my current sear surface is too positive? I did also take my fine white ceramic stone and just shined up (and squared up)the hammer hooks. I stoned the sear first with a medium fine India stone, then with the white extra fine ceramic stone. Lastly I polished all the contact surfaces with mothers polish on the end of a cut in half q-tip. (hard cardboard stick, not the cotton end) What should I try next? This gun is for competition / range use only, never self defense. It is the back up for my Infinity limited gun that has an incredible 1# 13oz trigger. So I would like it as close to that as reasonably possible. Honestly the 2.5 lbs it was before was acceptable, just need it to stop doubling, and I did want it a little more crisp. In retrospect, the doubling could have been from sear spring adjustment, which has since been corrected...

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OK, now that I'm thinking about, wouldn't turning the screw out the last 1/8th turn cause the engagement to go further negative? (first image below) Is this what you meant? If I'm understanding correctly, going perpendicular to the line straight up from the pin axis would already result in a somewhat negative engagement, (second image below) is it desirable for competitive shooting to go even a little further, or is that getting risky? I want a crisp light trigger, but I want the trigger job to last and be relatively safe.

Perfect, sounds pretty straight forward. Just to make sure I'm thinking about it right, you say perpendicular to the line drawn straight up from the center of the pin, would that not be the same as having the sear face parallel to the top of the tool? Just seems like an easier way to think about it. Then yea, just gently touch it with a stone to figure out where I need to be. Given the sear face is a little rounded at the moment, I guess I just need to find the position where I am only removing material from the center of whats left of the primary sear surface, right?

Interesting... So is there a method I could use to establish proper sear angel and set screw length for my given sear to use it on this jig. Thanks!

Hey All, First post in like a year, glad to be back! So I was shooting my backup limited gun, an STI Apiro, at the range the other day and it started doubling on me, looking at the sear it look somewhat rounded, the sear leaf of the spring was a little loose too so I tightened that. I wanted to put a fresh primary and secondary cut on the sear face so I bought the Brownells 1911 sear stoning fixture. (linked below) The gun still has the original STI sear and hammer in it, to the best of my knowledge, though it was purchased used. Problem is after adding loctite and setting the set screw as they instruct in the directions, the tip of the sear does not appear to be ending up in the correct position, this is making me think the dimensions on my particular fixture are out of whack.... Can anyone see something I am doing wrong, or does it look like I need Brownells to send me out a replacement stoning fixture? Would someone be willing to measure theirs, and post the correct dimensions I could check against mine? I believe this one and the Ed Brown one should be dimensionally similar. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/trigger-tools/1911-sear-stoning-fixture-prod27288.aspx Thanks, Eli

Interesting... I found it to make a BIG difference to weight and pull of the trigger, especially in DA. It's also not that big of a deal, for me at least, to swap out.

Read my quote above.

Going to bring this one back from the dead. I recently got a Limited Pro as a back up gun and just to play around with. While doing the trigger job I got the same parts as last time but this time, ordering the same part as before from CGW the reduced power firing pin spring for cz, the OD is larger and no longer fits in the bore in the frame of my limited pro for the plunger!!! I'm pretty annoyed, I sent them an email asking if something had changed or if I just got a bad spring, but never got any reply. Anyone tried using one of these springs in their Tanfo recently? Success or failure? Anyone have any spares of the old ones? I can take a measurement of the dimensions of the spring I received and post them, just to make sure my Lim Pro frame isn't the problem...

Para LDA 18.9..... Check it out...

For pistol I use low because I feel like it is quieter while refilling the tube.

Very exciting, one of these may have to join my collection... Anyone else notice how messy looking the USPSA Production Gun List is getting?

Sorry that took forever... Just about exactly 40" bench to ceiling. 2.5" clearance, therefore 37.5" overall height of 650 with shortened cadefeeder and 650 specific strong mount. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I'll try and remember to measure tonight and post.

I reload standing and have my 650 on a strong mount. When I mounted my case feeder, I believe I cut 1.5" from each end of the support and 6" off the feed tube, keep an eye out, one end is beveled, cut the OTHER end. I have maybe 4-6 inches above the press, but I have a drop ceiling in my man cave so I just have one of the ceiling tiles slid out of the way. I like to use a pretty big cut to portion out brass and dump into the feeder, so you just need to have enough room to fit whatever method you use to fill you case feeder.

Have you tried this ammo out of a different gun? Same issue? It very likely has to do with the seating of your primers. I would think it highly unlikely but try another package of primers, someone COULD have swapped the primers in the box out for something else with a harder cup, (or just mis-packaged) highly unlikely though...

I think what we all really want to know is what kind of ice cream you got??? Welcome to the sport from another Illinoisan! ( I think that's how you spell it...)

Now to find a trail running shoe with a 4" lift!!!

The spring and plunger should be peened in meaning the metal of the safety body is slightly deformed at the outer most edge to keep the parts from coming out of the bore. I think I can kid of see the the mark at the bottom in your photo, unless your type is different from the larger ones...

As I see it, this would mean someone considering entering the sport, will now look at other shooters and the rules and feel that they can not be competitive without investing in a new hammer for their gun. This will usually cost over $100 extra, and if they are just starting will probably have to pay someone to install it which means more $$. The more $$ it cost for a new shooter to get into what is supposed to be the 'gateway' division of USPSA, the less new shooters we are going to be seeing in the future... Yes, Indian not the arrow and all that is true to an extent, but there are certainly some guns that do benefit from a hammer of different weighting or different hammer hook configurations, which makes a very obvious different to the feel and reliability of a gun. Yes I understand that it is hard to enforce, but those people that need enforcing are cheating, and my hope is that most people in USPSA are not intentionally cheating. Making this change for that reason just seems wrong to me.

My understanding the pin and spring are supposed to be peened (permanently captured) by the safety. You shouldn't have to do anything with it for it to properly engage the notches on the frame, for the tactile feel you are looking for. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad safety? How old is the gun? I have heard of a Limited owner wearing out the frame notches over time which makes the tactile feel lessen.