jcc7x7

Im using a 122 gr TC out of a Saeco mold and using 4.3 and making 129 power factor out of a 5" 1911

I get same velocity and thus power factor from SPP or LPP in my 45's. Like the SPP when I'm loading a lot of 40's and 9mm's

Mine is 41.6 ozs on the weight watchers scale?! No Mag

It's all I've been shooting since the primer supply has dried up. They function fine in mine and its tuned pretty light. I'm not having any issues that I don't have with sm pistol primers. But I change my 17lbs main/hammer spring every 6 to 8 months depending on how much dry fire practice I'm doing. buy them in 3's or 6's from Wolfe

I'm a shooter who likes both sports. I enjoy the running and gunning even though my 300 lb body doesn't run very fast any more! I like the folks in IDPA they seem a little less intense in my area any way. I keep dropping my mags on the ground and I've decided to stop trying to pick them up! I've always liked revolvers so I'm gonna shoot a 625 next year in IDPA and Auto's in USPSA. I figured out that once you figure out the rules go for it and stop whinning. DA rules is the DA rules!!! LOL To answer the question I don't see alot of changes and 18 months was way to long. But is was a COMMITTEE and we all know how that goes. Just go shoot as best you can and remember most of us don't make a living at this.

3.7 WSF with a 147 gr Penn Bullet had a 146 PF in a Dan Wesson PM-9 1911 5" BBL. Still shot real nice was not abrupt at all. Never really went lower cause I liked the impluse of the 125gr bullets I was testing better

Thanks guys looks like not much has changed. 66 and 686 were the favorites 10 yrs ago Really do appreciate the input

Been out of the revolver game for a while. Yes I've been "bottom feeding". I'm redeeming myself, bought a 625 JM to get back into it and now looking for a 38/357 to shot mostly in IDPA. So it has to be a 6 shot and fed with speed loaders. I'm a S&W fan but been out of the loop for a while so looking for opinions. The JM is nice but cause its new has the MIM parts which I didn't realize; but I'll repair / upgrade it as it needs it. Trying not to have to do the same with the 38/357. Would like to look for used to try and save a few bucks. Any suggestions and why you're suggesting would be a blessing. Thanks in advance

Dawson makes lots of pinned sights for S&W N frames, so if you light his sights your all set. Bowen makes a great rear sight assy. in several types of blades. He also will give you a good starting place for the right frt sight height with his rear sights.

Black Rear with a U notch and a white outline night sight front! IRONS

Mine worked fine in a blade tech DOH. Have you tried the easy stuff like loosening the holster all the way open and slowly tightening it back up etc. I went to a Ghost after a while but blade tech did work. good fortune with it!

Bullets came today. Look real nice and weigh out correctly. no sacrifice of quality! Loaded up a bunch for the match this weekend

13lbs wolfe spring 125 HAP at 132 Pf or 147 Lead at 138 Pf The reason the diff power factors is that is where I like the feel of the gun and where my splits are the fastest (i.e shile still shooting A's, except in matches of courseLOL)

Yes and amen! Donnie just called me and got my CC info. bullets are done and on the way. Ordered this lot on 1/31/13 so it been about 12 weeks. Said he is starting to catch up! So hopefully will open up the website for new orders soon Good fortune with y'alls' orders. Just wanted to let you know in info

Old Ispc load was 5.8 gr of 231 everybody I knew shoot that. BUT that was in the 180 power factor days Currently for both IDPA or USPSA I use 3.9gr of clays with a 230 RN Lead at 170 Pf Or 4.8grs of WST with a 200gr LSWC 4.2 of clays is real nice shooting with a 200gr SWC both are in the 170-171 PF range. My 625 revo. also makes Pf with all the above loads As always do you "due deligence" and make sure these loads are safe in your guns by working up slowly from starting loads in a manufactors book

You might try an arched mian spring housing so your 1911 is a "little bit" closer to your glock the way it points. Grip safety is like all the others side "once its leveled out and pointing down range. Do the muscle memory thing, draw it about a 1000 times slow motion. doing all the right things at the correct time. i.e. 1. Grip the gun, draw it out of the holster and level it 2. Click the safe off 3. Slap your hands together without covering yourself 4. Push the pistol out and present to target 5. Push trigger straight back I do this very time I dryfire practice, including at the fumble table at matches. Nice and smoothly. It also helps me get rid of pre-match gitters. Shoot straight and enjoy, the learning curve will be short since your already an experianced shooter jcc7x7

Just starting shooting a revolver and hear a ton about Carmonized guns!! But I can't seem to find how to get ahold of him. Is he still with us and doing work???

Your COL is usually 1.250 -1.265. I make mine as long as will fit in the chamber with dropping them in the barrel while it is out of the gun, Some call it the "Plunk" test. I also make sure a loaded round will eject out of the gun with out hitting or hanging up on the slide "ejection Port". My SIG STX needs them at 1.250 to do this. The gun will fire 1.265 but won't come cleaning out of the gun when your showing clear at the end of the stage. i.e. pulling the slide back slowly to catch the round or at least have it in the vaciniity. Biggest thing is to make sure in drops easily into the chamber and fits in the magazine. Load the whole mag and hand cycle them through the pistol. Obviously pointed in a safe direction or with the firing pin removed. Make small batches at first so you don't waste components. Especially with current supply conditions. Shoot straight

3.1 gr universal its really soft, smoky with lead no problem with jacketed, both make minor and them some in my guns 3.6 WSF real nice also All depends on what you have or can get yor hands on

Mine is over two years old and it has the NEW style plastic spring in it

I have 226 nitron and an X-5 they both shoot whatever I put in them. Both very accurately!! 147 give that gentle push but the 124's snap the sights back faster. Splits are slightly faster with 124's. I use the same spring with both loads. I do run the 124's at about 140 power factor cause I shoot the gun better there!!!! JMO If your a c or D uspsa shooter the 147's may seem easier to shoot. Most the guys I know that are high C or better shooters shoot the lighter bullets

I think this fine fellow "DONT KNOW HOW TO LOAD" Lead, Moly have worked for me for 37 years. ye I shoot jacketed sometimes but 85% of the time lead or moly. I find that plated measure very inconsistant. So for me I would rather save the money and use lead. No cleaning issues at the velocity that we are using. Good fortune with your gun and load

I've shoot 8 to 10k of 147 out of my m&p with no problems tumbling. Shoot WSF at 130 Pf via my chrono

Run one on a production gun and a SS 45. they are plenty accurate for plates out to 25 yds. and longer. They "feel" or maybe I should say look slower at longer distance until you get used to them. Big golf ball dot at the shorter stuff , top of the ball at longer! works good for my 55 year old eyes.

Take it apart. Polsih every surface. Again polish not grind or file. Put the 17 lbs main spring in. Get a SRT trigger kit from top gun supply. That will give you a starting place. Then you can cut a 1/2 of circle at a time off the main spring until you get the weight you want. This statement will cause lots of discussing from the spring experts I'm sure. you also can get reduced sear springs BUt I've never felt the need and have gotten down below 2 1/2 lbs SA and 5.5 lbs double action with good reliablity with win or fed primers. you will have to replace the main spring every 4-5 k rounds along with your dry fire practice will shorten the life of the "cut" down main spring. When you can replace it with the gray DIY spring kit. I'm told that gray had all the springs made to his specs, so I'm thinking he had them built lighter to his specs without losing the length of the main spring. I've found personally that the polishing and SRT make the biggest difference and now mine is broken in from lots of shooting and dry fire practice. other guns I've done get the above treatment and work great but need to have the main spring replaced more often. hope it helps