Chrome308

Well then Walther gave me the wrong plates, because my SF’s adapeter plates are heavy steel. On the plus side, much harder to strip out than soft aluminum. I’m curious where you read the SF got aluminum plates?

I believe its a tiny torx. If the one I have says the size, its a font too small for my eyes to read. Make sure you apply a lot of downward pressure to avoid stripping it. I think there is some thread locker on those screws.

Polarization cuts some glare that bounces off flat surfaces at a ~45 degree angle. Its an interesting effect how light gets polarized in that situation, worth some offline reading sometime. Its nice to have for driving, and foliage can look differently with polarization, but I don’t think its a factor at all for irons.

LOKs are split in two, and milled on the inside. Definitely harder to fill, but not impossible. The Walther grip flat on the inside and hollow at the back.

LOK Grips just arrived and I hit them with a dremmel to better fit my fingers on the left side. They're thin (hollow) on the backside, so you'd want to fill them with some epoxy or Acraglas before doing more taking much material out of them. They're also entirely hollow under the backstrap, but split in two and they would be more tricky if you wanted to use them as a base to make a smaller backstrap grip versus the stock grips.

Put some electrical tap on that spot (or just bite the bullet and hit it with a dremmel). Trust me your skin will toughen up if you practice with it regularly and for a long time.

Auto bright normally for indoors or dryfire at home, but in bright sunlight at matches I usually run manually 1 click up from the auto bright setting.

LOK Grips is making grips now. I should have some in a week or so, which I’ll be modifying for fit instead of destroying the stock grips.

You’ll get a callus or scar there if you shoot enough. I don’t notice it after the first week. Walther should have beveled the edge.

Ahh good, something I can cut up and modify instead of messing up the factory grips!

Stock springs seem to work in my gun down to about 130pf, below that you need a reduced power spring. After some testing I settled on ~125pf 147gr FN loads with titegroup, which seemed to have the least subjective recoil of the various bullets and powers I tested. Model Gun: Q5 SF Bullet Weight: Precision Delta 147 FN Power Factor: 125 (tested) Encountering Issues: None Recoil Spring: SpringCo White (~13 lbs)

The RMR, while tough, does have about the smallest useful window of any of the mini red dots. Good carry or duty optic, but not ideal for competition.

When Optics Planet says in-stock, probably best to give them a call. Lota of false positives. Arms Unlimited false positives too. i ordered one from SWFA early last week and it shipped recently. (2.5 moa), but it actually drop shipped from somewhere else, I don’t think it actually made it to SWFA’s facility. i get the vibe that Trijicon is manufacturing more 2.5s than 1 or 5, so those may be a little harder to find for a bit.

SWFA 1-6x mil/mil FFP. Clear glass, good eyebox for the class, fast as you can drive it close range and easy to shoot to 600y. Past that and you probably want more magnification sure. Beyond that you’ll need to pay 2-3x more to get a quality 1-8x and I’ll ask why not a dedicated mid-long range optic and a good offset red dot for in close.

The way the ‘eyebox’ works for red dots, it literally does not matter except how big the housing looks, which shouldn’t matter much if you’re shooting both eyes open. On a rifle, you can mount it on the tip of the handguard and the eyebox is the same as if it was on the back of the receiver. Don’t overthink it.

The magwell matches the frame aperture well.

Why do you think green is more visible to the human eye, and if it was, how relevant is that when the brightness is adjustable? i’ve heard this before about green being more visible, but for me that abstract statement is not the entire story. Dot glass coatings, brightness vs battery life tradeoffs, and emitter technologies are all factors which may outweigh the blanket statement about colors and the human eye.

I’m using the SpringCo trigger springs. The safety blade does have nearly as much pressure now as the reduced weight trigger itself, so your technique has to be on point to get the trigger to pull without engaging the safety. If you pull straight back and/or depending on your hand size and ergonomics it could be a non-issue or a big problem. I’m taking it as a teaching point to improve my trigger pull technique, but sometimes I dont get my finger on it just right and the safety catches. using just one of the two springco trigger springs might be an option for some people. personally, I refuse to shave down the trigger safety. I may want to return to a 100% stock trigger at some point.

Dara shipped to my doorstep 4 days from my order, and it came already cut for an optic. Also I really like their paddle option. It sits in a drawer now since my Red Hill competition holster finally arrived.

Well thats interesting. Good idea to test that. FWIW, after 1k rounds, my Q5 SF has some play, but not enough for any contact thus far. Mags and slide show no signs of metal to metal contact and no failures of any kind as of yet.

Thats just not going to be as durable with as the RMR with that design, but good on Trijicon for going for a big window.

Holosun 507/508 are also RMR baseplates

Depends on the model, but (on paper) the STS2 C-More is similar in size to the Deltapoint (which is good).

I've noticed an ongoing trend, and comparing an RMR recently at a store to a Burris Fastfire 3 I own brought up the issue again. What good is a larger red dot front window if the view from the rear is obstructed anyway? Trijicon SRS, MRO, and yes, even the RMR I'm looking at you. Red dots have an eyebox. The eyebox is where you can place your eye and see the dot against the target. You can see through the window glass of a red dot from a many angles, but the dot can only be seen if your eye is within the parallel lines at the edges of the optic window. For simplicity, I'll describe this eyebox as a rectangle, viewed from above, with the sides of the rectangle being parallel to the direction of aim, and the width of the rectangle being decided by the /smallest/ of the optic's one or two windows. If the limits of the eyebox are truly parallel depends on if the dot is actually projected at infinity or if its projected closer, at say, 100y or 50y or something. The differences are minor however, so lets assume infinity for simplicity. Note: I don't actually believe most manufacturers claims that the dots are 'parallax free', only that they're mostly parallax free. Anyway, I digress. So what's the benefit of having a larger front aperture than the rear if the eyebox is decided by the smallest aperture? I'd say there is no benefit, other than the very slight quality of life from having a bit less optic housing obscuring your dominant eye, but when shooting with two eyes open, this seems pretty insignificant. So IMHO the SRS and the MRO's larger front apertures are snake-oil. They offer an eyebox only as large as the smallest of their two windows. And the RMR, which has a glass window which is 0.56" high and 0.87" wide on paper sure seems visibly shorter than a Burris Fastfire (not a durable optic BTW), despite the FF3's window being nearly equivalent at 0.58" high x 0.82" wide. Looking through both, the Trijicon RMR seems significantly shorter, despite the nearly identical technical specs. Taking a closer look, the rear of the RMR protrudes above the bottom of the glass by about 10%-14% of the height of the glass, which eliminates that bottom part of the glass from the eyebox. That part of the glass is useless, you'll never see the dot in the bottom portion of the glass, no matter how you align it with your eye. So this was long, but I wanted to highlight some B.S. that's going on in the red dot market. Don't fall for it. Front window size doesn't matter on red dots if the view is constrained behind it, by a smaller rear aperture, or part of the rear housing in the case of the RMR.

My Pro model just came in today, so that tells me the April batch is now here! Mine doesn’t seem to have the extreme magazine side to side play on initial inspection, but its also still a virgin. Will get some rounds downrange with it tomorrow. TTI +5 baseplates just barely fit with the Pro magwell (on a PPQ M2 mag body and follower for 20 total).