Chrome308

I tested 115, 124, and 147 FMJ (precision delta) with HS-6 and titegroup and felt the 147 with TG had the softest recoil impulse. It was pretty clear by feel alone that the heavier bullets and faster powders shot softer when loaded to min PF

I'd be glad to trim 4oz off any of my rifles, that said, it doesn't matter much. If I'm going to carry an extra 4oz, the barrel nut is right at the center of mass of the rifle which is optimal. FWIW, I run a BCM KMR with a custom aluminum barrel nut on one rifle and its the tits. No problems with it to date. I wouldn't bother with that if the gun wasn't trying to be a featherweight build (5.1 lbs). If you can get the weight that low with a grip/stock/optic and handguard you actually like, its a pretty cool thing.

It really doesn't matter if you pinch the gas off at the gas block or farther downstream at the BCG. There are a lot of designs for adjusting gas flow so its hard to draw many useful conclusions in general without talking about specific manufacturer designs. If you intend to change the settings regularly because you want to sometimes use the can and sometimes not use it, then what's going to matter if the adjusting system gets seized up with carbon easily or not. The dry and hot operating environment at the gas block is a recipe for carbon to build up. The BCG may get some lubrication which might help the carbon from seizing things up quite so quickly. For many rifles (ones without short barrels or lightweight carrier/buffer systems), you're probably going to be able to find one gas setting which cycles the rifle unsuppressed and is definitely overgassed with the can, but not so much to cause malfunctions. One of my rifles is setup that way because the adjustable gas block seizes up so quickly its just not worth messing with (w/in 150-200 rounds). If you want to run a lightweight carrier/buffer, or your gas port is too close to you muzzle and your dwell time sucks, well then you probably don't have this luxury. I use a rubber city adjustable gas key on another rifle, and its pretty cool and very affordable, and doesn't really get seized up. Works on any BCG, but probably best left to sporting rifles due to it's specific design.

The large soft slide release (i.e. mag spring) is my least favorite part of the walther designs. You can adress it with enough training, but its tempting to mod the pistol with a smaller lever and a small shroud (like the glocks.)

14,5” barrel witha rifle gas system means a very short dwell time. You have a lot of gas in a short period to get the bolt moving. Thats not ideal. adjustable gas can’t slow down a light carrier+buffer. The springs and mass will dictate the carrier speed to get a full stroke. All you can do with the gas is remove excess gas beyond what it takes to cycle (which slows it down some), but the carrier speed won’t ever be as slow as a full weight system. hard to guess how your specific reciprocating mass and springs are interacting, you have some fancy pants parts in there, but just like pistols, light rifle builds are going to kick a little more than heavy rifles just from the mass of the rifle versus the velocity of the projectile. I enjoy shooting my 5lbs build in competition, but its a very different experience to my full weight 18” SPR. The SPR is much flatter and double taps very efficiently. My LW build handles very very fast, and has a very fast 3gun trigger and carrier speed, but has more recoil to manage. Its net neutral for me.

The drill and tap for the sear housing to fix the travel after the break was scary to attempt, but the results were as good as promised.

Well its got to at least work in all positions, and it should be reasonably comfortable in your primary shooting position. I have a couple of optics that are a bit farther forward than I would like normally, but I need them that far away to allow for a functional prone. Adjustable stocks do help, so take advantage of if you have one. Its usually only a problem for me when shooting a variety of positions with fixed length stocks.

For sport, the suppressor isn't faster, its a little slower. The recoil impulse is a bit more drawn out and heavier than a good brake, so if you're looking for a performance advantage suppressors don't really give any. That said, I like running one about half the time and use a TBAC Ultra 5. Frankly its almost as quiet as the previous gen 9" TBAC 30 cal can in the safe, I have zero regrets going with the short can over the longer 7" option. Its doesn't seem finicky to get a rifle to run properly with it, most of my normal bolt carrier group rifles run well with and w/o the suppressor.... although I do have a very lightweight BCG and buffer on one rifle and its overgassed and will malfunction with the can on it in the non-suppressed gas setting with full power ammo. That rifle is built for gaming only and isn't optimized for reliability, and with a correct gas setting it runs really well. I use the Ultra 5 for a 308 precision rifle, multiple 556 uppers in various lengths, and a 300 blackout SBR that's turning out to be quite a quick little rifle for me. The downside to the TBAC CB mount is that it can and will loosen up sometimes when it's shot and left to cool, and really needs to be checked before shooting. TBAC machining and thread tolerances are such that even if it does loosen up a little and you don't catch it, you're still unlikely to have a baffle strike.

Did this set-screw creep mod and definitely worked. A little hairy tapping that hole by hand but glad I did it. Breaks like a carrot now with no creep.

The usual polishing to remove tool marks, I would assume.

yeah, case brands will have different internal volumes, so you will want to sort brass by headstamp (and weigh each case, tossing high/low weights) if you want to load for ultimate accuracy. With an accurate bullet and powder/charge weight for your barrel, you might be able to skip being too particular about brass, but it depends on your goals. In my rifles, I'll use two different accuracy loads, and there isn't much of a noticeable difference in groups at 100y. One is maximum effort and maximum accuracy (sub MOA). The other is lower effort intended to be cheaper in time and money and shoots almost as well. I love the 75grain Hornady BTHP round, its reasonably affordable (16c?), very accurate in by barrels, and can be used accurately out to 750 yards or slightly farther. I'll do a bulk 'easy' accuracy load with 75gr Hornady BTHP with mixed brass and TAC ball powder. Since its a ball powder and meters well, I'll just get the powder thrower dialed and then charge batches of 50-100 without weighing individual charges. Brass is checked for max trim length only. This load only costs me around 26c a round. My ultimate accuracy load is new or 1-2 times fired high quality Lapua brass with each round individually weighed and trickle charged with Varget. Being a stick powder, Varget doesn't meter well so weighing individual charges is necessary. The good Lapua brass increases costs, so I need to recover the brass. If I'm a little cheaper or can't recover brass I'll use Lake City brass, headstamp sorted by year, and weight each case, throwing out the heavy and light outliers to try to get a consistent internal case volume. If you're hunting ultimate accuracy, everything counts. This is a real tack driver load in my barrels. I don't reload 55gr FMJ. I can do it cheaply, and the Hornady bulk 55gr bullets perform admirably accurately in my barrels (1.2MOA), but the time required for the minimum brass prep isn't justified by the cost savings for me versus just buying bulk 556 for plinking. The 55gr ballistic tip rounds shoot accurately for a lot of people, but I've just had such good sub MOA results from the Hornady 75gr when I'm spending the time to reload, its the round that gets the nod.

Glass looks bigger, but its not set back in the frame much and looks almost unprotected from the from (maybe not a huge deal on a competition optic. Like the RMR, the bottom part of the glass looks blocked from the rear housing, so its deceptively shorter from a rear view than it looks from the front. Here’s hoping its as robust as the FF3, which despite being kind of small is a good little workhorse of an optic (IMHO)

+ 2

The distortion is only noticeable if you don’t have the gun pointed at a target aligned with your eye, so IDK why it would matter.

I have the Springco with the yellow spring and run weak PF loads too. I can say for certain if my thumb is touching the slide release or if its goong forward completely on it’s own. Gun has a few thousand rounds through it.

mine does it a lot, but not every time. I haven't modified anything related other than the recoil spring.

Yeah, my first 2.5 MOA SRO battery lasted 5 1/2 months with a 12 or so trips to the range and regular dryfire at home.

The SF is the size it is because its based on a PPQ platform, slide and 15 round magazine bodies. If the grip was longer they would need to at least design different magazines and maybe a different non-PPQ based slide. Lazy, perhaps, but the magazine choice Walther made for the non PRO model is what is limiting the grip dimensions. FWIW, its not an accident that the PRO model with the factory 15+2 mags and flared magwell just barely fit into an IDPA ESP / CO box. Its as big as it could be without being a different beast entirely.

For molle mounting, I really like the Emdom IAP. Very quick to get mags in and out of and never let one fall out in years of rifle matches.

Holding it upside down is very different than shaking it upside down. Shavings are just the holster breaking in against the sharper edges on your pistol. Not a big deal. I keep my RHT competiton holster firm, but frankly looser I would accept for more dynamic (3gun) matches or carry use. Different holsters for different jobs.

Grip, trigger pull and astigmatism can cause differences in POI for pistol shooters. Rifle shooters the position of the shooter makes a small bit of difference, as does ammo. Hitting low left though is the classic red flag of anticipation / flinch, especially if its more than just a little bit off. Anticipation is insidious, and can affect you in one gun, but not another. Or even one context but not another (shooting the same gun).

With a dot, I don’t look for holes. I look for dot movement indicating recoil and commit the last dot position as the presumed hit location and keep going. Watching for impacts is slow. Try to use sight picture and shot execution to call your shots as much as possible. If you catch some visual sign of impact, thats a bonus, but don’t reply on it and don’t wait for it.

Tried the glass bead blaster on a very caked up brake mount for a suppressor on my DMR and it worked like a charm. +1 to glass bead blasting.

Can anybody weigh an aluminum plate on a scale for me? (preferably not the RMR one)

Weird. When did you buy yours?