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I’m finding I like the fast slides so I’m leaning away from the 34. Which leaves the 17/47 or 45 - any preference in return to zero or recoil impulse?

Thanks for the feedback - can you share a bit more on what the mistake was with the 34?

Hi all - I’m a middling A class shooter who shoots mostly LO with a steel 2011. I’ve liked the challenge of the lighter polymer striker guns and wanted to stick with Glock as a G26 is my main CCW. So, I wanted some advice from Glock team about what the consensus is on the optimal for a CO/LO Glock with the current roster available to us. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to these to test or compare side by side. - G34 MOS - don’t need the long slide with a dot, may be too slow of a slide but shoots soft so less dot movement - G47 MOS - shorter recoil spring and heavy-ish slide may not be ideal…or maybe the goldilocks - G17 milled for an optic - longer recoil system and lighter slide might be the best fit but no MOS option anymore (can’t get through GSSF from any of my local dealers). - G45 MOS - slight loss of velocity to meet PF but faster slide may be great I can train around any of it but wanted to make the right choice to start. Thanks!

I run a 507 comp on my competition guns - too hard to find plates (if any) for the romeo 3 XL and just not a fan of the SRO any more due to cost and too small of a dot. Nothing wrong with either - used both for many seasons. I'm giving the 507 a shot and liking the big window, easier to change battery, and larger "dot" (I run the horseshoe only). As with all of this YMMV ;-)

After having two Q5 SFs, I decided to pick up a PDP SF and give it a shot. My LGS made me a deal I couldn’t say no to and the usual set of upgrades started….and didn’t go all that well IMO. The same recoil spring issues are present with the PDP SF that were on the Q5 SF - as you lower the spring weight, the lock up tension is so low that it doesn’t stay in battery well and caused a few issues. I tried the various lighter trigger and striker springs with no luck. I liked the PDP SF more than the Q5 SF but these same issues due to the short recoil spring were disappointing. I noticed the PDP SF slide has a plastic insert that could be removed so I tried a few old recoil guide rod and spring combos but none fit the guide rod hole. I gave up for a few days and saw a Velox training video that referenced a “long stroke” guide rod. Sounded sexy so I looked it up and sure enough, ZRTS makes a captive, long stroke guide rod, spring setup. A few days later it was in my hands and it’s awesome - really changes the impulse in a better way, is finally a more appropriate spring rate for low power factor ammo, and has a much better lock up. I assume some sort of adapter ring will open up non-captive guide rod/spring options but the ZRTS is a good all in one solution. I have a buddy that I’ll chat with about making a 3D printed option. I’m curious how it will age but only one way to find out!

This has been my experience too: Started with 150 Syntech with a 60* locker but it wasn’t softer than 115 from blazer or supervel with the 70* (and the 150 Su techs cost a lot more). The BB115s didn’t lock back or eject consistently with the 60*. I personally like the 115 for the faster speed compared to the heavier loads. I could get 5 BB 115s rounds to all touch at 25 yards with them and that was plenty good for me.

I agree on all accounts above with senior Boomstick (and usually do!) except on the MRO - run what you got to get started and you can get something later as you learn what you need, want, and prefer. Just like with your 2011s there’s a lot to account for your preference and skills. While the MRO parallax issues are real, I haven’t seen them to be an issue for “normal” PCC distances which rarely go past 40 yards and most are 15-25 yards. I found the MRO issues to be highlighted past 50 yards for precision shots on the edges of the glass. I run an MRO HD (which admittedly has the least amount of parallax in the MRO line) and have specifically tested it at the edges for POA vs POI issues and couldn’t distinguish my s#!tty “user issues” from a parallax issue. I’m no pro but shoot NRL, PRS, and 3 gun and couldn’t replicate any issues within 50 yards. So, could it be an issue - yes. Is it likely to be an issue at speed - no, not in my opinion. And as you’re getting started, your optic won’t likely be the limiting factor. And, as of course, YMMV

Thank you! I think I have a couple from my old CO P320. I’ll give them a try….

I’d call Atlas and talk to Randy (who’s awesome) who can try to diagnose over the phone. If that doesn’t work open a ticket and they will take care of it. Until then, I would take a look to see if there’s anything keeping the magazine from going all the way in….it seems it may be causing the feeding issue (and potentially the extraction issue). But it sounds odd - not obvious what’s causing it…

Hi all - I tried the rune follower and it would shift into the breech on the last round causing a malfunction everytime. I don’t see any other options for a few extra rounds - any luck shaving down the factory follower for an extra round? Thanks!

I actually think this is a larger issue - there are no real or similar competing organizations for our attention and dollars. While I like the recent IDPA changes, it’s still a far cry from USPSA and IPSC. One-off matches are out there but are far from the norm and lack the consistency that USPSA provides. Without a need to be/do better for fear of losing the shooter base, I don’t see a reason for the BOD to satisfactorily resolve the current structural and political issues.

While my SROs have been reliable, there are a number of things I didn’t like: - Lots of fisheye - had more parallax than expected at the edge. Addressable by making sure the dot is in the center but takes time and not always possible in some positions. - Double dot in certain sun angles (as mentioned above) - cost me some points on a couple matches but I shouldn’t have taken those shots and that’s on me. - Ejection issues on some guns (as mentioned above) - had some issues with ejected rounds getting caught between the SRO and slide causing some malfunctions. Fixed some some ammo and spring changes on most guns (but some just couldn’t run the SRO). - Dumb ass battery cap - better than and RMR but made of super flimsy aluminum that is way to easy to cross thread (and mark up). Almost always scratched the shroud every time and no good tools available. Luckily the SRO has good battery life but I dread having to change them. I moved to the sig optics (R3 XL) on my comp guns and haven’t had any issues (yet). It’s probably just a matter of time before I have issues but two have over 15k rounds in them - so far so good. On my defense guns, I’ve moved to holosun (508T, 509T, and the EPS series) and have had no issues. I have intentionally murdered two of them to test them out and was impressed (beat, dropped, hammered, drove over, etc). Waiting on the holosun competition model to hit the market and will likely give it a go.

What did you find was the problem? I have an MC9 and haven’t had any issues (well, yet after 800 rounds) but I’m aware of the extractor spring tension issues that may have caused this.

I’ve had most of the Atlas line at this point and the Artemis is my LO gun of choice (you know, until something cooler that won’t help my scores comes around). I prefer the Artemis feel and speed compared to the Titan but it’s really splitting hairs. On the clock no difference so if money is tight, the Titan is a great choice (even with the recent price increase). I’ve had two Athena’s and it never quite connected with me. I think I prefer my steel frame staccato P to it at this point. I’m not a big believer in the “perfect zero” Atlas claim part as it’s relative to your grip strength and ammo used IMO. But I have found the Artemis is more forgiving with an imperfect or inconsistent grip as you run a stage. Now for home defense and range toy use, I’d get two guns: get a Titan for LO and a Staccato C2 or P for general use.

You could probably just order one of the "regular" DS 9 Hybrids and pick the setup you want....but I like the lack of front sight on this model. I also think the AL grip and a steel magwell is the way to go for a 2011 setup to keep it well balanced but light enough.