slavex

me too man, I'd run it DA/SA just because I hate safeties and can't use em worth a crap with my big hands and super high grip

anyone got any pictures and tips on setting up a processing toolhead on the 1050 for 223. I have an RL with a RT1200 on it that I am setting up right now. The previous owner could not get it working right and I've only ever loaded pistol ammo on my 1050s so this all new voodoo to me. Currently I've set it up with a Universal decap die in station 2, swage/expander in 3 (I'd much rather have a swage hold down only, no expander), then I intend to put a sizing/decap die, backed off so I don't break the decapping pins in station 5, trimmer on 6, and then done. Does that sound reasonable? I've got a Dillon Carbide sizer, and actually some broken tips I could put on it to hold the expander ball in place. I'm not wanting to run the decap/sizer in station 2 as I'm paranoid about breaking tips, with the universal if that happens they are cheaper to replace. So, am I way off base with this plan?

you should have ordered the 220V ones, contact Mk VII immediately.

It is a full on Shadow 2 made for Open with 9mm major. Robin Sebo from the factory made it

my brass washed the other day. the flash kind of ruins how shiny the are, but even factory new brass isn't this shiny.

drooooool

just to internet argue (kidding)(sortof), I used to run my FART with pins, and no matter what I did they'd fly all over. I use the RCBS enclosed sorter to rinse the cases and separate the pins, and even still, pins would get everywhere. Now, they did clean the inside of the cases amazing, and did 100% cleaning of the primer pockets, if decapped ahead of time. But I did have numerous broken decapping setups due to pins getting stuck in flasholes. That sucks, a lot. So, I quit using pins, the inside of the cases aren't as clean, and the primer pockets aren't 100% cleaned, but more than good enough, with most being totally clean. The outside of the case however looks exactly the same as with pins. Super bright and shiny, no darkening after drying either, unless I set the temp too high on my oven. I run my brass through my case separator trays to get the dirt and dust off and get rid of debris, then into my MkVII 1050, with case lube, to decap, then size (two sizing dies actually). Then I wash. waaay easier for me, and quicker than with dry tumbling ever was with much better results. Like you said, it's what works for me. I know if I don't add that 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine, the cases are not as shiny. I also use laundry detergent as I find it doesn't foam as much and is quicker and easier to rinse off. I also use hot water for both washing (1hr usually) and rinsing.

I run all my bullets at 1.1 for Shadow and Shadow 2, regardless of weight, so far in 9 if my own guns as well as a hundred or so other guns, no problems

I recently had to tighten up the retaining screw that holds the blue nipple that the tube inserts into. it was rubbing on the tube shielding. I ended up doing a bunch of tightening of various things including the main bolt that holds the tower onto the base. Now it is really quiet and runs much better. I guess it all just loosened up over the years.

it's one of those things I've been wanting to do for years lol, no idea why it took so long

you've seen this right?

I know this isn't the MBF mount, but just replying back about the 1050 toolhead mounts. Here is what I ended up with

the bump of the powder funnel sticking in the case mouth doesn't bother me at all. But cases not feeding into the shellplate is a nightmare when it keeps happening over and over and over again. I'm burning up so old Dillon lube right now as my cases are all getting washed after processing, but when I loaded unprocessed brass it was always with Hornady One Shot, soo much nicer to load with, and I didn't need to tumble the loaded rounds after unless I was bored.

I gave up on the FFB shellplate and went back to the stock shellplate for that exact reason. Nothing I could do would stop the cases from not feeding into the shellplate properly. Lucky for me I still have my tweaked zip ties in place to catch upside down cases (had an issue with that ages ago due to the wrong clutch assembly on the case feeder shellplate), so any cases that bounced out didn't continue on and cause havoc with the decapping die. But a lot times I'd get a torque problem as they'd have fed part way into the shellplate and then the press would jam while trying to index. With the Dillon plate reinstalled I have zero issues.

I use laundry detergent, less foam, less rinsing, 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine, and super hot water. Looks like gold coming out of the tumbler. Usually an hour, but I've seen good results with indoor sourced brass in 1/2 an hour too.

Last two years in Europe I've run S&B primers in my Shadow 2, with 11lb mainspring and no issues at all. Seems they've really changed things up as previous to that I'd get light strikes in my Shadows all the time.

I always find it amazing to see all the different ways people do their washes, with pins, without, hot water, cold, air dry, dehumidifier, oven, and all the detergents and additives used. I try to find the absolute minimalist way to do it, and must have perfect water for doing that I guess.

yeah the extra pulling used to be a drag, but, knowing the brass was prepped and no debris etc makes the loading session much much better in my opinion. I've got a Revolution coming to replace the 1050 on the bench, so the 1050 will become the garage press, processing brass as soon as I come home from the range.

yup, MKVII on a 1050. But even before that I did the same.

I really don't see the benefit of pins with pistol brass. most of my primer pockets are spotless, without pins, and I don't need to worry about them being stuck in the flash hole. the great thing about processing before washing is that I don't really need to worry about drying case if I don't want to.

Thanks for the item list on the parts, went to Home Despot today and got the parts, went with 3/4 pipe as they didn't have any 1/2 adapters or flanges. Works perfect!

yes the notch the retaining spring sits in on the leg of the slidestop. I could not get the Rami to lock back installed in the 2, tried 10 of them, no luck.

you have to modify the Rami to have it work, the cut out where the slide goes isn't wide enough. I also had to weld a longer leg on the part that lifts when the mag follower hits it, and I filed the retaining notch open a bit more so the slide stop would sit better against the frame.

what is the pvc adapter you have the steel pipe going into? Trying to find at my plumbing shop today and no luck

I agree 100%