KenRH

I believe I can slip the Gen4 ejector out of the housing and place it in the Gen3 trigger housing. Gen 4 ejector housing in a gen 3 gun?

Appreciate the feed back. Since I haven't been in any hurry with this, I have slowly worked my way through various test modes, mostly out of curiosity. I have to chrono before each major match for a family member, so the chrono data is current. Unquestionably, this G34, with my ammo and me shooting it, runs best with an OEM Glock barrel and Glock factory (17 lb) return spring. It can't do a 300 round test without at least one FTE, but it comes close.

Interesting situation with G34 that's sat mostly in the safe for three years. Was shooting 128 PF 160gr Bayou when in use years ago. Wife shot it this way more than me. Anywho... now shooting 130 PF 147 Bayou. I'm getting consistent FTEs - maybe one per mag or one per 100 at best. Chamber checked ammo. Replaced: Extractor Extractor plunger and spring Return spring - 17, 13 and 11 lb Barrels - Glock, KKM and Storm Lake Locking Block Trigger housing PF - 130 to 135 Totally clean KKM chamber and barrel produces more FTEs (other posts in Glock review this issue). Same ammo in G17 with 13lb recoil has no FTEs. I really prefer the 17 anyway, so the G34 is going back into the safe. No plans to load 160 ammo any time soon. I have a new ejector #30274 on the way. When the 34 runs, it has weak ejection pattern: overhead, slightly forward, or 4 o'clock. Again, I just thought this was interesting.

Can stacking cases damage lead bullets? I stack about six high which translates to 300lbs sitting on the bottom case.

Thanks - but there isn't enough fat above the fiber. I'd need to remove about .020.

A new .45 Storm Lake barrel shoots low at 15-20 yards compared to KKM and stock barrel in a G21. Will additional fitting help this? I am not optimistic. I can adjust my rear sight to about the max to zero, or buy a new front sight. I'll do the latter if necessary, since having my rear sight so high is not desirable. A final option is to contact SL to see if they think there is a problem they can correct. Has anyone else experienced this degree of POA/POI shift in an aftermarket Glock barrel? Ken

Another topic on this forum mentioned problems will arise if the recoil spring goes solid under recoil. It got me to thinking that maybe I wasn't imagining things when I replaced my recoil spring with 18.5 Wolff and thought the slide felt different when I racked it. I marked the frame and found that the slide stopped a fraction short of where it racked with no spring or a 16 lb. spring. I cut off one coil of the spring and it feels much better now and racks to my mark. Will cutting off one coil hurt anything? My SA Trophy rod guide showed a pretty nasty gouge which I polished up. I probably have 1000 rounds on the spring and 8000 on the gun. Ken

As of this evening I have run 800 rounds in a couple sessions with no jams. This was after I changed two things. I cleaned up the underside of the primer station retaining tab and bent it down slightly to help seat and hold the primer in the primer slide. It may have been out of shape. The plastic tab has been replaced from the parts kit previously. All the crushed primers had roughed it up. I also installed the case feed part available from SPRSkip in this forum for .45 and other calibers. I think it helps smooth out the case feeding into the shell plate with 9mm and an old plunger spring. Smoother is better. In addition, the machine was disassembled all the way down and I checked the bearing run out, shafts, etc. I have bit more slop where the races fit in the frame compared to my other machine and that allows more play in the main shaft, and more head movement. The bearings and shafts checked out OK. I greased everything and rechecked the expander/swage adjustments for more support during swaging. I ran the last five hundred rounds tonight. I had two primers crush and hit the deck, but they did not jam the machine. I also had some sideways primers, but I can live with that since it may be range brass related and if they don’t bring me to a stop, that's fine. I'm praying (along with my wife and pets) this has returned the machine to its former self. Ken

latech15 - what brand of primers? When purchased, lot #? I've about decided it's the primers. I'm using CCI 9mm LOT LO4T, bought before the panic. Does the color of the primer's plastic tray mean anything? This lot is black. My other lots and all that I can remember were white. I've mic'ed them to compare to small rife, but I think I will measure a few hundred and see what I get. They have to be falling out for a reason. I hand checked 250 Speer cases two days ago and ran them. I stopped after each jam or primer failure to inspect and adjust. I had close to a 20% failure across the board. 2 1/2 hours invested with nothing to show for it, other than I now hate reloading 9mm for the wife. .45 is a dream on another 1050. I wonder if I will end up loading 9mm on a 550. Ken

Yup. The last change I made during the session was another 1/2 turn of the swage. The last 70 rounds loaded so you may have something there. We'll see. It did not hurt at least. I'll be back at it shortly since I have been advised the peak of the match season is coming up and more ammo needs to magically appear. I've loaded 85k 9mm on the thing and used to find it relaxing.

Removing the rubber sleeve will allow the primer tray to move further into machine before the alignment pin repositions the tray back under the case to seat the primer. I've tried loading with and without the rubber sleeve, and for me, unfortunately, it made no difference. The tubing I use for the sleeve is a smaller OD than the part supplied by Dillon. Rant: I needed to load 500 9mm rounds for the wife tonight. She wanted another .05+ grains of powder, all checked WIN brass, No big deal, right? Wrong. 2+ hours working with machine to crank out the rounds. 500 measly rounds. Crush-Jam-Crush-Jam. Cleaned, adjusted this and that, whatever could be adjusted or replaced was fiddled with. I have another machine set up for .45, purchased with the small primer options, so I have spares for about everything. I can only make it worse. Heck, maybe it's the batch of CCI primers. All I know is I should only reload 9mm when I have nothing else to do that evening. Even If I have anything left of my evening, I won't feel much like doing anything else - other than posting rants. Ken

How would one explain the improved primer feeding after removing the rubber sleeve? I have a 2% - 3% primer crush rate currently with 9mm and CCI primers over 1000 round sessions. It used to be 1%. In addition to the fixes mentioned in earlier posts, I've swapped "old" and "new" style SP trays and adjusted the primer slide stop. Nothing makes it much better, but a few changes made it much worse. With the current crush rate I get a decent number jams. I think I may have reached a high 'B' or low 'A' class at clearing stoppages. I have not removed the rubber roll pin sleeve. Might give it a try. Ken

My personal experience: I've shot a few thousand rounds of 55 gr GA "Canned Heat" bulk ammo over the years and still shoot it occasionally. I haven't ordered any from GA for a couple years, so what I shoot today is a couple of years old (properly stored). In my 16" ARs it does not approximate XM193 ballistically. As best I can recall, XM193 is 3100+ fps out of my barrels and 2 MOA, GA around 2800 and > 5 MOA not counting flyers. You can feel the difference when you shoot - it feels soft. As mixed headstamp reloads, my 55 gr GA stash cannot be used to shoot for groups. My SIG 556 is the worst. It shoots 3+" groups at 25 yards. Other ARs and a SCAR do a bit better, but not enough to sight in or really test your off hand abilities. It's fun to shoot up close, cycles 100%, and good for new AR shooters. YMMV - they may have changed bullet profiles etc on 55 gr and improved things a bit, but my small group of shooting buds have all experienced the same thing. My experience with both the 69 gr, and no longer available 68 gr, GA reloads was excellent. If I wasn't loading my own, I would get these again. Ken

Raced WERA on a RZ350 in the early 80s for a couple years. There wasn't much left of it after a couple get offs at speed. I think turn 1 at Texas World Speedway pretty much did her in, and didn't do me much good either.

If you get #21393 Quick-Change, it includes both the toolhead and powder measure - hence the 'quick-change'. You wouldn't also need #20420. Good point on the extra toolhead. I still might get an extra toolhead along with the large primer goodies for loading .45 on it some day. Decapping pins - I typically throw in additional pins whenever I place an order even though I've gotten decent at bending them back into duty. Sounds like I'll be breaking them on crimped .223. Looks like I am about there on this. Thanks - Ken