slavex

I actually dropped them off some time ago lol, had been waiting for the call to do so. Which makes them losing them even more frustrating. We were waiting for a chance to throw them in with a big job, as they are very very tight with what they allow to be sprayed (manager is, um, a dick).

Hoooboy, @DenC that's some necro posting from Pistol Forum lol. Yeah I've seen a few friends have slides break at the spring box on older SP01 Shadows, not the tactical if memory serves, just the regular Shadows. Spring box would detach from the bottom of the slide and then recoil rod would take off. CZ always replaced the slide. If I remember right, none were super high round count guns, they were all fairly new and CZ identified the issue from specific batches of casting. Probably too many Pepsi cans in that batch or Ladas or something. I've seen two newer Shadow 2s break (maybe 3 even) at the breach face, breaks were near identical, and those slides were also replaced by CZ (this was a couple years ago). No idea what the issue was there or round counts on those guns. Between all my CZs I'm at about 1.25 million rounds through them all, with a couple guns over 200k (old Shadows). All I've ever broken are slide stops and TRS and firing pin springs. Plus a couple front sights.

I have the paddles at a Line X place right now, but just got called the other day telling me they can't find them. soooo might have to figure out another solution to the problem.

I run 9lb recoil 10lb hammer in my Shadow 2s. Not sure what the Czechmate has, TS2 is a 10lb recoil and 11lb main. I use ProShot gun lube, but any gun oil works. I lube the guns regularly, but seldom clean them. My match Shadow 2 often goes 5-6000 before cleaning and the practice guns 10k. But as stated, lubed regularly, slide, frame, barrel, buffer etc. cleaning I use Proshot as well, their gun scrubber in both aerosol and hand pump versions. Occasionally I'll toss into my Ultrasonic cleaner with Crest cleaning solution. I also have the dark buffers but don't use them currently as I have a big bag of the clear CZ ones that should last until I'm dead and then some. Ammo is almost all handloaded, for Production/Optics 135PF 147gr bullets and for Open 124 and 147 at major PF. I've examined guns at the factory that were tested with and without buffers over extended firing cycles, tens of thousands of rounds and seen the fractures that develop, in slides and in frames. Shooting is done indoor and outdoor all year long, Last year I only shot 70k in my Production guns and will probably be about the same this year. The gf did the same in her Open gun plus another 5 or 6k in her PO gun. Once I change springs from factory to my choice of springs I seldom ever change them again, I honestly couldn't tell you the last time I had to replace a recoil or main spring. I have had to replace the odd trigger return spring (factory), and factory light firing pin spring.

we run them in all our CZs, the clear, thick buffers. In my TS2 and Shadow/2s they last over 10,000 rounds typically. In the Czechmate with 9mm Major they last around 5000 or so. They cost about $1.50 each. The engineers at CZ put them in for a reason. They save slides and frames. if you're chewing them up, it's you, not them.

check the link pin between the main ram and the cam. when that wears you can get bumps and knocks on the up stroke.

@mmc45414 being a non buildy type I haven't come up with a solution that will agitate the contents just right, that can attach to the drum. I tried some wood ribs inside and they just got eaten by the brass. Nothing but drum the brass just floats as the drum turns. Were I more handy at that kind of stuff I am sure there would be a solution.

The FART has worked for me, hard, since it first came on the market. I am transitioning to a cement mixer this year as well, so long as my trial of having the metal paddles rubber coated works. It's a plastic drum but the metal paddles would cause a burr on the mouths of my 9mm brass after only 30 minutes. Hoping the rubber coating stops this.

separate seat and crimp and powder check are the biggest advantages to the 10 station machines. But I will never ever go back to single pass reloading. the depriming and priming at one time on any progressive is the biggest failure point, causing everything from small headaches to squibs and broken guns. While slightly annoying to process first, and then load, it's worth it to me.

@MikeyScuba good to know they can fail though dude. I will definitely pay attention to my machines.

I have the new DAA PrimeVibe and it's working great. No upside down primers in 50k. Once I settled on a frequency, for me 62.9 it averages 1 minute 15 seconds to fill a tube. The occasional hang-up, like maybe 1 in 10 tubes, where a primer catches at the mouth of the drop, likely related to qc on Ginex primers, and not the unit.

how old is the machine?

Winchester primers also seem to have some sort of oily coating on them which ends up messing up priming systems. I don't think they produce them with the thought of people using progressive machines with stacked priming or collating. Even when hand seating them I had to clean my hand primer regularly.

yeah the digital powder sensor for the Mk7 was only designed for doubles or no charge, it was never for detecting small variations. Even the laser, while more accurate and easier to set, can't really be trusted for anything better than half a grain maybe even a full grain depending on powder and speed you're running at. If you're running mixed headstamp brass just the thickness of the web will drive you crazy from case to case. I've been thinking of measuring from the bottom of the case to the mouth on a wide variety of cases and find some that sit in the middle and then use that as my base case whenever I need to rezero. As it is now I could be using a case with a thinner web, or one with a thicker web, as my zero and then having to adjust frequently until I find a middle ground. @MikeyScuba damn dude that sucks, what broke in the die? Spring loaded hold down?

@MikeyScuba console is now USB C, where USB plugs in. Cables are much better made now too. That's all I can think of from MK7. I've long since moved on from the crap MA dies (can't believe I liked them, they did not last and had constant issues with them), FW Arms dies now, other than sizing and flaring (waiting on those new ones from Will). I have also upgraded to a laser powder check and a new laser bullet sensor. Much much easier to adjust for different bullets and powder charges.

I use both, a RL1050 for processing and a Revolution for loading. If I had to stick with one machine it would be the Revo (or an Evo Pro). Buuuut, the reamer on the 1050 makes it a decision I wouldn't want to be hit with.

get a reamer from VP Mfg, fits on the 1050 and I run mine at 3000rph

post a video of what's going on. Is your safety on when you're trying to do this?

take a center punch and put two divots in the bottom of the old sight, then reinstall it, if you want to put it back on.

with a little work you can have the slide modified for a RMR pattern, which is the most common. they'd need to mill out the other mounting holes and fill with inserts most likely, but it can be done. I went through a half dozen DPP before switching to an SRO, it hasn't failed me yet, but the DPPs were a monthly failure item.

Optic Ready frames seem to be commonly available, so grab one of those and throw the iron site plate on it. Then you have a backup slide that you can put your optic on if you need to.

it is very common for the safety to be able to be pushed up when the hammer is down. Nothing is wrong. And no, your slide should not move or hammer be able to be racked if the safety is up. It's simply the cam lobe on the safety sneaking by the leg of the sear. Some guns it happens, even new from the factory, others it happens when people over fit the sear, or the safety lobe. so long as the safety works with the hammer back and doesn't allow the hammer to fall, all is good.

I swapped out all my ET ones for the Armory Craft trigger. it's a much better design and for me, fits my finger perfect.

@flying_franklin I haven't yet, but Joseph Wu has a very nice setup for doing them out here in BC. Once I find my slide and my Kadet 2 slide, I'll be taking them into him to get done. But, currently their whereabouts are unknown lol. Packed somewhere for the move and not found yet at the new place.

I use a Wyze smart plug so I can set any time I want, via my phone, for my dehydrators.