slavex

just had this exact same break occur on Tuesday night to a new piece I got last year after having the inner body crack on another, really really well used and old measure.

how does filing that down help? I've been getting a rash of cases hanging up lately, no idea what has changed.

abb1 has it nailed, the old style mag catch can be overpressed and catches the mag, bend the leg of the spring and you're good to go.

This is exactly what happened to me tonight.

usually, but not always, you can simply turn the right hand safety straight up, 90 degrees to the frame and slide it into place without disturbing the detent, then carefully rotate it down/forward.

yeah my hand dwarfs hers, but she runs that gun better than I can. The gun is a signature series gun, just fancy finish and engraving, no special reworking of internals.

really the pins only clean the inside of the case. The exterior is mostly done by the other cases in the tumbler. Yes of course the pins will do some, but removing them won't make a detectable difference (or didn't with me at least)

looking forward to it!!

I have no idea why the 2s are cracking, but this has happened in regular Shadows as well as Tanfos, and other CZ clones, even in other models of CZs apparently, which is why this cut exists in some of those other models.

if you're buying one now, take the slide off and check, lots of ones coming in don't have the cuts. I've seen shops get a shipment that was mixed, next shipment had old style, etc.

any of the sensors in particular? I've got the decap sensor and primer level sensor as well as swage

for 9mm and 40 the gauge will catch the cracked brass no problem at all

doesn't cost me any time to deprime, my machine is automated, I just sit there twiddling my thumbs for a large portion of the loading process. And before I retired I'd pull bullets and deprime em at work.

not a crack, just schmoo on the metal

I've had the powder measure body break before, once. I figure after a few million rounds on that machine it was acceptable

I am a huge advocate of the shockbuffs from CZ, I use the thick ones and they do seem to last forever. I'd have to look through my notes to see when I last changed one.

cool dude, I'm at 70,000ish through my two arcore 2s with nary an issue, and I use the shockbuffs, although I don't think they have any impact on this area at all.

you have to take the top pin out of you want to take out the mag brake (that's what that piece is still called) and you need to take it out if you want to take out the mainspring plug (which also has a pin through it)

why is it the wrong solution? Explain. What is the right solution? Again, explain

I don't see how you think these changes will somehow weaken the area, according to everyone I've talked to who has experience with designs like this, it should in fact totally solve the cracking issue. An issue that only showed up in a specific batch of firearms from what I've been able to learn. This change also already exists in other CZ products, and hasn't been an issue there. As well, Tanfoglio suffers from the same issue occasionally, so it's not like it's a CZ only thing. As for Glocks, I've seen them fail at under 1000 rounds, I personally own 1 that failed at 2500 and had to be replaced (G17 Gen III). I've got Shadows with well over 100k rounds through them that are still shooting just fine. A gun is a mechanical device and those things fail sometimes. For the vast majority of people there will be no issue with their existing Shadow 2s, if there is, then CZ will fix it through their warranty services.

Designs are constantly updated and improved, look at Glock for example.

Flyingpig, interesting, you must have got one of the very first like that, as the earliest I've heard was only a few weeks ago.

the frame looks exactly the same as it did before on the outside. Nothing different there. 115gr is snappy I totally blame that for the problems

I"m going to blame your ammo for all those broken guns lol! Serial numbers don't always relate properly to the casting batch, you can have very different serial numbers on guns that were all cast at the same time what exactly do you want a picture of? the slide from the side or the frame from that side?

Not sure why the other thread got edited and closed, but here are the original pics I took of the inside of the new 2s. It shows the new relief cut made to alleviate cracking on the right side of the inside of the frame, above and to the rear of the slidestop pin. I'm pretty sure it was a specific batch of guns that experienced this, and the numbers aren't that high for how many were affected. This cut already exists on other 75 series guns, I think the alloy frame maybe? (not 100% sure which guns, but I know it exists). I've also included a pic of one gun that did break