EkuJustice

The PF is steel must fall to score

I think it all depends on how the budget is. With a glock its not that expensive of a gun but its also one that dosent break often and is also an easy one to fix. When I shot a glock, the backup was basically the parts in a carry gun and never had to resort to fixing it at a match. For a 2011, its not as easy a gun to fix in a safe area as the parts would need to be prefit etc. Since I have a 2011 now, I keep the factory trigger parts that I could swap if I have time and my old glock, as a backup to it. Even going to larger matches, I just cant justify dropping over 3K for a backup open gun set up exactly the same as I have to sit there Idol to have IF it goes down at a big match. Just depends on what Its worth to you to have the exact same gun to finish a match with(thats probibally already tanked if your gun messed up to the point of needing a backup to be used). For me I will take something that will allow me to finish and call it good

Running a 10.5 inch here with a std carrier and gas block, a spikes t2 buffer and a Miculek comp. does it shoot as flat as a full rifle length gun no but for a shorty it shoots plenty flat and isn't that violent with the heavier buffer

I have a Racemaster for limited primarily because I need one for open and use the same rig. For 3 gun I am using a retention holster. For a kydex, the best of both worlds is "the boss" holster ben stoeger sells. It's adjustable and is more solid than the Doh holster.

Ya I would say you got screwed on the deal. If he cant tell what a slug hit on a steel at that range looks like then he has no business running timers or matches. If it were me, I wouldn't just suck it up as an oh well incident. I would never set foot back at the club and would bash the club locally every chance I got

Tuck it in and not worry about the speed as much as for limited you have one reload to do somewhere so there is probibally some place to take a time neutral reload. I agree with sarge it was nice they pulled the affiliation as local rules don't belong. How often do you shoot there vs elsewhere as having 2 different reloads could mess you up when going elsewhere

I have their dragonfly slide and magwell on a glock mainly because I won them at a prize table. It is a good looking slide and I like how it feels when it recoils. For the grip, I am not a fan as they use the larger tool to cover the area so I just don't like the look as much as others. I have felt theirs as well as others and be best feeling one was the mod1 stipple that pike does. I have had one glock done by him and plan to have this one done as well

Use grams springs and followers with the std +1 non SNL here and get 20 reload able without tuning

The best way would be have it welded and recut but it's not gonna be cheap. Or just use a Dawson for the cut

Easy way to change stuff is speak with your feet and wallet. If the match isn't what people want then they take their money elsewhere

You should have 4 screws. 2 short 2 long

Mine is a 6354DO with a glock 35. With my 6 in sti I had to go gcode as safariland didn't make one for it. I use the glock most of the time though. The 6378 is the base ALS and can have the other attachments added if one chooses. I got this one from a friend is why I have the 6354

Are you right handed? If so give one of these a try. Think of the shotgun as a rifle and your eye as the rear sight. If it hits low you adjust your rear sight up ie move your eye up which this does. If it shoots to the right move the rear sight left which this does If your right handed. That is like the ADJ comb method used by the shotgun guys to adjust the POI on their clay target guns.

For 9mm your probibally gonna wanna go with the aluminum MSH one depending on what else you have on the gun. I have one of the steel ones and make weight with a 9mm spartan with VZ alien grips and a GI guide rod

Don't bother with minor. The major ammo will shoot better than minor ammo as major has enough gas to work he comp properly. Minor ammo won't have much gas to work the comp

Run a low drop safariland ALS here as it keeps the pistol away from the load 2 vest. If your gonna buy a holster, I would give the ALS a serious look. The holster locks every time and is thumb activated where it is just hit on the draw when getting the grip and is extremely easy to pickup it's that natural. The advantage is you will not have to worry about the pistol coming out when you don't want it to. You are seeing more and more people moving to a retention holster these days as a getting dislodged is the quicker way to end a match. The minimal if any extra draw time is more than made up in being able to move and not have to put the hand on the pistol when running. I went to one before they were cool after seeing to many pop out of the holsters of those why simply tightened it up a little.

For 9mm I am getting 23 with factory tubes Dawson +1 non SNL and grams springs an followers. I have some factory mags oral factory setup that hold 21. I have the same reliability with all them. I quit chasing that extra round

I think there are so many places doing stipple work that it's really just pick one that has a pattern that you like. The advantage of using the people who do this work on a regular basis is they have their technique down and yours will look like the pictures and have the same feel of grippy ness as other grips they do. Doing it yourself it's harder to get the patterns down like he does your first time. A very fine point also does good for doing it without as much pattern layout but is very time consuming and you need to be willing to take that time and not try and rush it by pressing harder or faster or trying to burn too much too fast. The other option is big dots which to me looks awful on a glock and cheap though some people have paid money for that which is VERY quick to do has good grip but no astetics. On resale value a good stipple job may limit buyers but will generally not hurt the value over the basic gun. A bad job kills value. A good job will usually hold value or even increase it some. One from a "known" smith ie taran tactical, mod1 etc especially on a competition gun generally increases value as that's something we commonly do and are willing to pay extra over one that hasn't had it done if it's something we would do. If you like the pattern I say go for it unless your sure you can take the time and do a good job on it and are willing to practice first on something else(different plastic responds different though)

Go thumb screws. Like he said loose for a stand and draw, tighten for a weird start. It's like a race holster. Unlocked for stand and draw. Locked for running first, laying down, chair or any other weird start. We shoot with a guy who has basiy zero retention on his. Uspsa you can usually run it loose until you need it tight based in position. For 3 gun I'm running a level 2 retention

There really is no "magic oil" out there. There are always new greatest thing out there lines coming out that's really are best lubing the money coming out of the wallet. If it requires instructions on how to apply the lube some specific way then look elsewhere. The conventional lubes just work and don't cause the issues that the lube it and it stays forever stuff does. When it comes to lube KISS is the way to go

How lightened is the slide? I would go 13 max on a lightened 9mm. I have a zev dragonfly 35 slide that I won that I am running a 11 pound spring on for 40 minor in 3 gun

Looks like he is using them for limited 10 as he discusses them sticking out of the magwell1/4 inch with the.300s.

Belt all the way. For the drop offset look at the bracket ben stoeger sells called the boss if is solid and keeps the gun where it needs to be and is adjustable. Well worth it

My cleaning is simple green water mixture 10 parts water to 1 part simple green in an ultrasonic cleaner. Cleans well and fast and I'm not scrubbing it off by hand

Ya if you shoot it you will be hooked. A steel frame 1911 9mm dosent recoil at all and is a great shooting gun. I have a 9mm spartan and it shoots great and dosent move