muncie21

Tactical Sports are notorious for their frame size. If you have a chance, try out a Tactical Sport Orange, it has many of the TS features, however it has a slimmer grip profile than a standard TS.

The Tactical Sports mag bodies are physically different between 9mm and .40

Here's what could happen if you run with too weak of a FP spring

You did well. The TS is a fantastic gun! Let us know what you think after putting a few rounds down range, oh and pics

OP: FYI- TS pistols come with 3 mags, magwell (plastic) and flat trigger (plastic). If the magwell and trigger are factory, you are getting a holster and adjustable sites, plus a free break-in for the gun with the 500 rounds. The 1100-1200 resale is still a good estimate and will depend on how much the buyer desires the extras you have that don't come with a factory TS.

Interesting concept Inventive.

Thanks both, for the comments/feedback.

Recently when cleaning TSO .40 I've noticed that the extractor pin seems to be 'walking' a bit, causing it to drop down into the slide channel. I noticed this when trying to remove the slide and feeling a bit of tension/resistance while trying to pull the slide off the frame. Below is a picture of my 40 (top pic) that has several thousands of rounds through it, compared to my TSO 9 (bottom) which only has a few hundred rounds through it. It appears the pin was staked from the factory. Anyone else notice this with either a TS or TSO (I believe both frames are similar/same)?

After reading all the posts, I'm still not clear on how a bad primer could cause a fully loaded shell to 'partially' fire, causing a squid. I've heard of no powder in the case resulting in a squib I've heard of bad (won't ignite because of moisture, etc.) powder resulting in a squib Have not heard of a scenario where a bad primer could cause an otherwise perfectly loaded (powder is good) round to squib. This could be my lucky, teaching moment day though...

It's all part of the game. I'm actually quite happy that all I've had to do to this gun (which was purchased used from a fellow USPSA shooter) was replace the rear sight (front now also, but that was my choice) and firing pin spring. How many open & limited shooters to you hear about that need to send their mags in for 'tuning' to allow them to run correctly? Mine? wipe them down every now and again and they run 100% along with the rest of the gun. I started shooting USPSA with Glocks because of their mechanical simplicity and low cost. However (for me) CZ provides a nice mixture of price, reliability, ease of maintenance and accuracy.

@858 Any troubles getting the bushings in/out? I replaced the bushing on my SP01 with a 10x, it was pretty straight forward. I have heard about people putting the 10x in the freezer and such, to make install easier.

I'd go with the CM any day and twice on Sundays Let us know what you decide and better yet, post some pics!

When troubleshooting (cars, equipment, guns, whatever) I try to break the variables into buckets and then determine if the issue could/could not contribute or cause the failure/issue encountered. In your case, I'm seeing 3 major buckets, the pistol, the magazine and the loaded bullets. First thing I would do (easiest) is to try a different magazine in the same gun, with the same bullets. If this works, you should be able to eliminate the magazine as the primary cause, keeping in mind that some problems stem from a combination of contributing 'causes' Try to use the process of elimination to narrow down the possible causes and then test each. Aside from physically being kept in the mag, I wonder if the previous round had enough power (or the recoil spring is a bit too strong) to fully cycle the slide enough to allow the new round to be picked up and chambered. Best of luck!

From the factory, the adjustable rear (like come with TSO) sites use a shorter front site as compared to the non-adjustable rear that comes on a TS. As an example, when I put a non-adjustable TS rear site on my TSO, which had a standard size FO front, it shot a bit high.

My .40 major load (for a CZ) is 180gr coated (BBI or Bayou) bullet over 4.4/4.5gr of either N320 or Prima V. This gets me a consistent 170'ish PF.

Glad you were able to get it to fit. Take it for a test drive and let us know how it feels.

Try removing the sear cage, just to ensure there's nothing else in the way of it going in. Also, as I recall, there's a spring that you lift up as you're sliding the safety in. Can't remember if it's part of the sear cage assembly (and therefore will not be in the way when you test fit without the sear cage) or not. Can you take a picture of the safety installed as far as it will go, ideally from top & side with good lighting.

It took a couple of click/rack/click cycles for me to figure out what happened. Interestingly enough, the parts did not eject too far or with any degree of force. My squad helped me locate the parts, which were all within a few feet of each other.

This happened to me at a local match. Caught it on camera.

That looks like a lot of expensive machine work, unless you own or have access to a bridgeport. What's the benefit of the shortened dust cover, is it just for weight or does is serve a function?

Winchester primers seem to do this, when I load primer tubes using the Vibra Prime. Switched to CCI and S&B and now this only happens occasionally (say 1 in 4/5K) and when it does it's because the primers didn't drop cleanly from the loading tube into the press' feeding tube. Oh and if you load SPPs into a LPP tube, you'll get an opportunity to get acquainted with your 650's primer feeding system Make sure the bench is secure as Sarge mentioned and double check that the primer tube and seating assembly are snugged up and indexing smoothly.

If you have already checked the powder funnel to ensure it is the correct one for .40 and there's no burrs on it, I would see if the stickiness is caused by something you're doing during brass prep. Run a spent round or four through the press to see if you're still having the problem. If so, remove the powder funnel to verify the issue isn't the powder die itself. If none of that helps, call Dillon and after you get it fixed, share your new found knowledge with the rest of us reloading mortals

Wait until it starts to 'pop' fairly regularly and then pull the stem from the die and see if the 'popping' continues, if so, I'd raise the die body and see if that helps. If the issue is related to the stem, you need to figure out if you need to lower the die & raise the stem or vice-versa. While you're at it also check that your shell plate hasn't loosened up on you.

Are you seating and crimping (debelling) in the same die? I can't really help if you are seating/crimping in the same die, as my experience is doing this in two separate stations. Best advice I can give is that something is not adjusted correctly. If you're seating/crimping in separate dies, figure out which is causing the issue by removing one die temporarily. If it is the seating die you're die is either adjusted too far down or you are flaring/belling the case too much. Try backing out the seating stem (with the die in the same position) and see if it still 'sticks'. If so, test with a sized, but not belled case. Use the same approach for troubleshooting the crimping die; remove the stem from the equation first and go from there.

You can run Shadow 2 safeties on TS. For me they were drop in. The Shadow 2 mag release will fit in the TS frame, however your TS mags will no longer fit as they are wider then the width of the S2 mag release. However, an interesting by-product of me trying this out, was that I confirmed CZ75 mags will fit and lock in your TS, if you use the S2 mag release. CZ 75 branded mags go in no issue, however the Mec-Gar ones will lock in place however they don't go in as smoothly, due to a slight difference in mag body design/shape.