Ming the Merciless

I finally gave up and just reamed the chamber on mine with a "Bentz" profile ream. It now chambers every brand/type of ammo I've tried and accuracy is still excellent. Bentz 22lr Chamber Ream I've tried all the available magazines and the most reliable were the Tactical Solutions, BUT you either have to modify the Slide Stop or the Mag follower to prevent it from locking the slide back.

The TASC match at Chabot is an excellent match for starting out in USPSA/IPSC. They are a very small friendly group of shooters and have a large percentage of newer shooters. They also have a very good new shooter orientation and their stages are much more new shooter friendly (simple stage designs) than the much more technically difficult stages of clubs like Richmond. I'm not sure what unflattering stuff you've read about TASC, but many of the guys shooting at other area clubs got their start shooting at TASC.

The wrench size is .050 inch.

Lois Price Lewis Nutt Hiram Butts Ida Pitts (her brother was Shelton Pitts) Dick Young (his given name was DICK, not Richard) Pretty funny phone book listing. I wonder how many of the above listed people will google their names and find this thread?

Hmmm, I thought bashing posts were not allowed, or is just bashing posts about certain businesses?

I thought it might have been because of this

Evidently you missed the Chronoman's response:

I use my Optima 2000 as a door stop for one of my garage cabinets.

Drop a #2 pencil (eraser end first) down the bore of your unloaded pistol. Cock the hammer, hold the gun so the bore is vertical and pull the trigger. If the pencil hits the ceiling or shoots at least 3 feet straight up, the problem is with the primers or primer seating. If it just barely makes it out of the barrel, the problem is with the gun.

When you "know" maybe things will appear differently? So you've actually timed a bunch of reloads (live fire) with 140s and 170s and averaged them out to know there's no difference? I can reload 170s just fine, but the timer tells me there's a difference compared with 140s. I can shoot the gun with 31 or 32 rounds in it just fine (well, it starts with that many), but the timer and hits (what sometimes gets overlooked) show a slight difference when I cut that in half (give or take). I spent something like 8 range sessions and thousands of rounds last year doing nothing but a series of two transition drills, so I'm working off data (for me anyway), not feelings. Maybe the results would be different for you, but many folks aren't using real numbers to back up their opinions. R, Crikey, you remind me of Ms. Babcock, my old english teacher! Yes, I've timed many, many reloads with both 140s and 170s and for me there was no practical difference. As far as transitions, yes I've timed and scored a lot transition drills and no, an extra 8 rounds of ammo doesn't make any practical difference for me. If you want to argue semantics, have fun, but I am going to take the advice of your sig line.

I always use 170 mags unless I have to go prone or start from something like a drawer or box. I reload the 170's just as well as I do the 140's (no, I'm not slow) and I really don't think the extra 8 rounds in the 170 is going to slow my transitions down. Of course what do I know, I'm just a master???

I've always had good results using RB-17 and 0000 steel wool to remove rust on blued guns. RB-17 Website I keep a couple of the Birchwood-Casey Barricade wet wipe packets in my gunbag and wipe down my gun before it goes back into my bag if it's been wet or I've been sweating alot. I also keep an areosol can of it on my safe and always wipe down my guns with it before they go back into the safe. Barricade website

No. Browning Buckmarks

I second the Allchin C-more mount. It mounts the C-more lens right at the guns recoil pivot point. It also leaves the rear scope mount screw exposed so you can disassemble the gun by removing the barrel and scope/mount as a unit so you don't have to re-sight the gun. Allchin Buckmark C-more scope mount As far as the adjustable trigger, don't bother, you can make the trigger pull weight heavier, but you won't make it much lighter than a standard Buckmark. The overtravel screw is nice, you can either drill and tap it yourself or just replace the stock trigger with this Overtravel Adjustable Trigger Brownells Trigger Limit Screw Brownells You can also order them direct from Browning Browning Parts Pricelist B5152898 Overtravel adjustable trigger B5152897 Trigger limit screw

Hate this! Most of those collision photos posted with trucks would NOT have been survivable even in an SUV!

Kalispel makes a large safari case that might work Kalispel Large Safari Case

Whois shows Fredrick Craig as the Organization Name Atomitronx.com

If the countersunk screw is protruding too far through the mount, the screw is actually tightening when the head of the screw hits against the frame instead of as designed. This leaves the mount loose to move and you shear off the head of the screw. Depending on how much interference you can slightly countersink the threaded holes in the frame to clear the screw head. If you have a drill press and a drill vise (even a cheapie Harbor Freight will work), remove the mount and grind the broken screw end flat. Use a propane torch to heat the screw until the Loctite just starts to smoke (approx 250 - 300 degrees.) Re-install the mount, select a drill bit that just fits the screw hole in the mount and use the mount to center the drill bit on the flattened end of the broken screw. Just drill a small divot and stop. Remove the mount and use a smaller bit like a 5/64 to drill through the broken screw. If the hole looks well centered you can use a larger bit like a 3/32 to enlarge the hole before using an EZ-Out.

Don't bother with the RD C-more clone. The reflective optical coating on the lens is rather low quality and reflects back much more light than just the red LED. In bright conditions such as outdoors the sight is barely usable. Midway frequently has C-more railway sights on sale for $199. Right now the Intregral mount version is on sale for $199. A hacksaw and a file will convert the Intregal mount version to fit your airsoft mount. C-more railway C-more Intregal mount

In the early days of IPSC before chronographs were readily available (and cheap) they used a ballistic pendulum to measure power. I'm wondering why a pendulum couldn't be used to calibrate a popper. X weight swung Y distance from Z height (somebody better with math will have to calculate the X Y & Z) once those were known it wouldn't be very difficult for a club to build a simple frame and pendulum. Set it up in front of a popper and let fly (so to speak.)

That seems like a really stupid bad marketing move for the smaller of two boutique firearms companies to shrink their market share even more by using proprietary parts. Non-interchangeable parts also means less sales of their parts which might have been used on their competitors platform. This marketing/design strategy has been used by many failed technology companies, anybody remember Everex Computers?

Real Ferrari and the insurance will be giving them full value because the accident was caused by a teenager on a cell phone. http://www.snopes.com/photos/accident/darling.asp

Exactly! These sights are made for airsoft pistols. I don't hear any huge outcry on here against the S_I 2011 airsoft clones, the Limcat/Brazos/Wison/Caspian/etc... slides for airsoft pistols. These cheap C-Mores are intended to be put on toys, not real guns. These copies are not hurting C-More's business, because who's going to put a $275 real C-More on your $105 WE 2011 airsoft clone? Ming

Most of the ones I've seen on ebay are being sold by Airsoft dealers. Oh, and Chinese crap? That's what I do just before I flush the toilet! Ming

"At this point in time" "A new paradigm to grow the business"