Ming the Merciless

Since you are grounding the press to eliminate static electricity, grounding to the water pipes or any other large metal body will suffice to drain off any static build-up on the press because there is no large current flow compared to grounding electrical circuits. All you are trying to do is bleed off stray electrons, not a continuous flow of electrical current so all the extreme grounding requirement for your entire homes electrical load is not required.

So the fight promoters brother-in-law has a job!

Unless you've installed a ramped barrel I don't recommend this for a stock unramped barrel unless you know exactly what you're doing. Many 1911's have been hacked up doing this incorrectly and it is very expensive to correct if done wrong..ie gunsmith installing EGW frame insert or installing new ramped barrel.

That, and the comedy factor of the ball rolling out the end of the barrel!

Before you start bending on the magazines, loosen the aluminum spacers and try slightly shifting the mag body in the spacers. Compare the mag body positioning in the working mags to the non-working mags. They seem to be very picky about height and angle.

The must be the new Red Jacket 1911.

Any reputable gun finisher can strip the old hard chrome off and refinish it however you want it. Here are 3 that I've used with good results. Metaloy Accurate Plating/Cogans Ford's Guns

Freudian slip or ?????

Again thanks for the information and not just a bunch of opinions/questions on why it should/shouldn't be done.

Thanks for the information Rich!

Anything is possible. I am sure you could "pin" it in place like some people do with a 1911 or you could wrap tape around it to keep it depressed. The root issue still comes back to why is this a "bad thing" that there is a grip safety and that it will not allow the slide to work if it is not depressed? The root issue is NOT "Why is this a bad thing", the root issue is deactivating the portion of the grip safety that locks the slide. Does anyone have any information on how to do this, not why.

Rather than debating the issue as to whether in your opinion this is good, bad, indifferent or unnecessary, does anyone actually have an answer? I'm also interested in whether it's possible.

Sandwich a couple layers of phone books between 2 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood will stop most handgun bullets. Build a sample and try it at the range to quantify the number of phone books required.

A loose primer pocket or a primer that is not fully seated.

I've never set off a primer with my kinetic bullet puller, but I've always been leary of it so I open the side door of my garage and stick my arm around the door so I have the door between my face/body and the puller before I strike it on the concrete sidewalk.

By the numbers quoted above it sounds like you mean the Mainspring, not a 'trigger' spring. The effect of the Mainspring on the gun unlocking will also be affected by the radius on the bottom of the Firing Pin Stop.

Check to see if the barrel mounting block/feed ramp has seperated from the barrel. The barrel mounting block is glued into place and it's fairly common for it to come loose. That drops the feed ramp down causing frequent failures to feed. Looking at the barrel face, if all or most of the full liner sleeve is visible above the feed ramp, the barrel mounting block is loose. You can either send the barrel back to Tactical Solutions for repair or you can remove the single small screw at the front of the mounting block and pull the mounting block straight up, clear of the two lugs in the mounting block recess. The mounting block does not slide into place paralell with the barrel, it must be lifted straight up perpendicular to the barrel. Clean the mounting block and the recess to remove all traces of the original glue and re-install the mounting block using a high quality epoxy like JB Weld. Firmly clamp the mounting block in place until the expoxy dries.

Why bother with elections for Area Directors? I propose they have televised man on man shoot-offs with Production division guns (with 5lb trigger pulls) ala 3 Gun Nation shoot-offs!

If you're just loading to minor power factor, it will work fine and you'll probably lose the brass before it wears out. You probably won't feel any difference when sizing the brass for reloading, but if you're loading to major the brass won't last very long and you'll really notice the difference between sizing brass fired in a regular 38 Super chamber and brass fired out of the reamed 9mm chamber.

Take a look at fishing tackle binders/wallets. Lots of different sizes, very flexible. Tackle Binders/Wallets Plano Speciality Boxes Shimano Worm Binder

Dynaglide Plus Lubricant Hmmm, they don't seem to have any contact information and the "find a dealer" button doesn't seem to work either. Here's another link that may or may not have a working email request for information. Dynaglideplus.com

Sears carries NordicTrack cold weather gear. Very good quality at a very reasonable price. NordicTrack Men's Base Layer Pants NordicTrack Men's Base Layer Shirt

Budweiser

No, they are not worth it. They work OK with the lighter airsoft guns, but won't hold up to the stresses of a heavier real gun or the harder usage of real USPSA/IPSC matches and you'll wind up having to spend more money the second time buying the real thing when the cheap copy breaks or drops your expensive gun.