MemphisMechanic

That is very typical for those particular bullets with short-chambered guns. Makes sense.

You can't paint so broadly A 135gr BBI which mics .356 needs loaded to 1.090" in the same barrel that will take a 125gr Blue Bullet at 1.130" and that bullet is also .356 diameter. The question is how fat the shoulder - or ogive - of the bullet is. A long pointy bullet won't stick in the rifling when loaded long. A short fat bullet of the same weight will require you to load shorter in order to clear those rifling lands in the exact same barrel.

What depth do your primers measure below flush when you check with a digital caliper?

Go back to page one and click the link I posted. The one that will show you a conversation where DNROI specifically OK'd what I did to my gun.

WST is fantastic behind coated bullets. You'll find it to feel very very close to titegroup - some people say a pinch softer, some a bit snappier - without the mess. I currently shoot Prima V because it was extrmely cheap and is soft, but PV does leave the gun pretty filthy inside. It's like a dirty N320 and at half the price I'm okay with that. Two things you need to consider with coated: Dirty powders and smoky powders aren't the same thing. PV is dirty but much less muzzle smoke than titegroup. WST is also better than titegroup with regard to smoke, because almost EVERYTHING smokes less than titegroup behind lead or coated bullets! Powders produce different types of a mess in your gun. WST and PV leave a soot in the gun that cleans off easily with a shot of brake cleaner. It's just soot. TG leaves a baked-on carbon deposit that sometimes required scraping off the back of the barrel with a metal tool.

As a counterpoint to the "PCCs that work" thread, I thought it might be worthwhile to outline what issues you had with mags, optic, comp, buffer and spring, various comps you've tried... Try and concentrate cliff-note versions of "I started with a basic rifle, here's how I made it shoot soft and flat" information all in one place. (And of course, the "It didn't run, here's how I fixed my reliability issue" issues you've had as well!)

No one has asked: What are you shooting them out of? Does it have a factory, full power, hammer or striker spring?

I don't know the difference between it and a brand new Medium in launch height. I didn't test anything but brand new springs in order to help keep things equal. Given the massive difference in trigger pull and the spring being roughly 2 turns shorter, I am sure it's not going to throw things as high.

If you request it, yes. Doesn't cost extra. Just add "drill for BOSS hanger" in your order's notes. Holstee body was under $60 and well worth it.

My guess is 3-gun

A poor plan executed perfectly will always beat an excellent plan executed poorly. Find the simplest plan you can figure out, as a beginner. When you get to the line, if you can't say with confidence you can execute than plan well 10 times out of 10, you aren't ready to shoot. Air gun it a few more times then close your eyes and play every move like a video in your mind.

Daily dryfire (15 mins a day) plus live fire weekly is a very common practice regimen which can take you a long way.

I've run three comp tacs, two blade techs, and now a double-layer body from @Kingman at Red Hill Tactical. Cannot recommend that holster body highly enough. There wasn't as much of an increase in rigidity as I found switching from Bladetech's drop hanger to the BOSS, but it's still very noticeable.

I found your problem. Coated bullets plus titegroup is common. Usually accurate, and always soft. TG is easy to find, so the combination has it's merits. But titegroup burns VERY hot and is very smoky and filthy behind a coated bullet. If you want a clean gun, you need to change powders, no matter what diameter bullet actually fits your barrel properly. Or stick with copper plated/jacketed ammo.

What bullet were you shooting before? Your hottest batch at 4.2 was only 131 power factor through one of the fastest guns out there. Sounds like 4.4gr would be the ticket if it's accurate and shows no pressure signs. (I prefer to be around 133-135 pf)

As an A-class, I can confidently say that switching from M&P to Tanfoglio required 2-3 months for me to return to my previous level of skill with an M&P. The gun won't make you better. If it motivates you to practice, that's what makes you better when you switch guns. Glock still win Nationals (Vogel, Limited) and Area matches over metal guns, your grip just has to be more developed due to the light weight. @CE325 I just now watched the videos of your running from cone to cone. Two things: don't accept anything other than your preferred shooting stance. You're letting yourself settle for some goofy narrow-footed platforms in order to shoot ASAP. That won't work when you have a real gun and a wide arc of targets to engage. Also, don't stand up in each position. Stay low at the height you ran into the position with. If there were three things I could go back in time and teach myself to avoid bad habits: 1. Crush the F$&@k out of the gun with the weak hand in dry fire. The place where you get lazy and learn a weak grip. Shooting fast means gripping hard enough to make someone you're shaking hands with very uncomfortable. 2. Get the gun in both hands extending out to the target two strides away from your entry. You should already have a sight picture when your last foot plants. 3. Stay low and wide in shooting positions. Uncomfortably low. Feel it in your legs. Always be super stable and instantly ready to move. Don't waste time dropping low to run, popping up to shoot.

Red Hill on a BOSS hanger, even better. Nothing stiffer.

This is the way to go. Fill a small bowl with the SC, set the grip panel onto it facedown, and press gently, rocking it slightly. Prevents fingerprints from causing waves in the epoxy, because you're applying uniform pressure.

The shape and height of the hammer hooks? That's the main reason for the feel of the trigger breaking crisply (or creeping) in SA. Also it's smoothness and pull weight in SA. Reset length is primarily due to your disconnector.

.875 oz = 24.8 grams. Will weigh SSI Scales 2.0 tonight. My wood grips probably have a full ounce of epoxy and silicon carbide grit added, so those aren't going to supply a useful number.

Thanks. I figure they're light enough even a reloading powder scale should be able to read them.

Can one of you with a pair of these weigh them? I'm curious if they're even lighter than the scales.

People who are shooting classifiers & standards stages. That's who.

Blue bullets are typically the cheapest.

I find nearly exclusively practicing in SA to be the ticket. I really only work on DA in dryfire as a single shot from the holster. How I achieve a realistic single action in dryfire that stays when your hands come off the gun: (tape the hammer in the right spot)