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Found 26 results

  1. Hey folks, I’m in Columbia SC looking for places to buy powder locally. So far I’ve only found Sportsman’s Warehouse. PSA doesn’t apparently do much with reloading anymore. Am I best off going online?
  2. Hey Guys, I have about 5k 9x19 rounds I want to load up using the following components. 5k 124g. Speer Gold Dots 5k Starline new brass 5k CCI 550 (Small pistol magnum) primers I am looking to duplicate the 124gr. +P factory load I get out of my stock G19. which run about 1225 FPS. I am looking for a powder and/or load recommendation that will get me to 1225 fps with minimum flash/muzzle blast. I have been handloading for about 30 years so understand the concept of start low and work up. Thank You in advance for your assistance.
  3. Hi folks... As I mentioned in my original intro post, I am a retired Army guy that is just now getting into competitive shooting. I am currently setting up my Dillon 650 to load 9MM. Because of my reliance on a VERY fixed income, I need to avoid a lot of indiscriminate buying and testing of components.... Here is where I am: Primers will be either Fiocchi or Winchester (because I can get them reasonably, and do not want to worry about "hard" CCI or "soft" Federal...). I am purchasing some of both for trial data..... Bullets and cases will vary depending on what I can reasonably source. Right now I am buying some cases in 5000 lots (mixed head stamps..). Bullets will probably be Berry's or one of the other plated bullets for range practice. I plan to test and load a more "capable" jacketed bullet for match use. My intent is to try all three standard weight bullets, but will probably select 124 or 147 because of the recoil impulse. So with that in mind... Here is my quandary. Powder..??? I don't want to buy (and WONT buy..) multiples of possible iterations just because they "might" work. So here is my criteria (admittedly, I am a little in the dark here...). I have selected six potential candidates to make 9mm MINOR floor. Those are: Unique; Silhouette; True Blue; Power Pistol; Win 231; and Universal. I also realize that there is a multitude of possibilities and an equal number of opinions..!!! What I would like to do is select THREE choices for testing. I am trying to avoid VhitaVuory powders because of the ridiculous pricing. I also do not favor powders that are "compressed loads" Sooo, a medium density powder that meters well (Dillon 650...) and makes the floor at a reasonable pressure. Truth told, I am also trending against Silhouette. There is a distinct lack of Silhouette data for 9mm published in manuals. However, I realize that there are some folks here who swear by it... and of course some who swear AT it as well. So, if you folks could just recommend your three top choices and your reasoning. They don't have to be part of my six choices. I am open to being convinced...if you have a reasoned approach. Here is a little Gen Info background. I am NOT a newbie to shooting (of any kind..) nor to reloading. My Dillon is 18 years old. I have more die sets than I can count. I started reloading with a single stage in 1969 for rifle calibers. My handgun loading experience is pretty light though... mostly hunting loads in big bore handguns (44 Mag. and 454 Casull..). Please hold forth... You won't embarrass me or hurt my feelings.... Sorry this is so long... :-(
  4. I've spent many hours reading all the powder vs temperature threads on here and many on some other sites. Some good info, but I'd like to go a little further. I think from my reading the least sensitive powders are nailed down fairly well, what I lack is data on the ones that are more sensitive. I'm going to do a project for a class at my university on this, so I can use some help in figuring out the powders that are least, average, and most sensitive to temperature changes. I'd like to know this for both rifle and pistol powder. I'm going to do pistol for the project, I'll probably do rifle later this year or early next year (since my only .223 is still waiting for a stock and glass). While it would be interesting to test a bunch of calibers I'm sticking with 9mm for pistol and .223 for rifle for now. I intend to test a load that just makes 125 PF, and one that is a bit hotter around 145-150, to see if there's any correlation between air space in the case and output. Testing will be done over a chronograph, with ammunition that has been held for a long period of time at specific temperatures. So far what I have from here and elsewhere: Pistol: Vihtavuori N3xx and 3Nxx are the least sensitive to temp changes, and Hodgdon Titegroup seems to be average. Some powders are reverse sensitive, e.g. more pressure at lower temps. Rifle: Hodgdon H322 and Varget are the least sensitive. Rifles also seem to more sensitive than pistols, seems logical to me because the charge in a rifle is much heavier, usually around 5 times or more than a pistol charge. What are your experiences?
  5. Any suggestions for Pistol Powder for 9mm Major USPSA open division? *currently using HS-6.
  6. Around 20% of my rounds failed to fire. I took my gun to the gun shop and they said it worked fine, and it had to be the ammo. Now I'm not sure if it's the powder or the primers. I am loading 3.9 grains Titegroup over 115 grain Eggleston Munitions .356 coated lead 9mm. The TiteGroup I am using is coming out of an eight-pound container. I've had it around 3 years and there's only about 1 pound left. I have kept in a cool and dry closet, but I live in south Louisiana so I am wondering if humidity could be the issue. The primers were CCI 500 Small Pistol Primers. The ones that didn't fire don't look right. There is a tiny dent where the striker hit them. Normally when I get a mis-fire I shoot it again and that works. Not this time. The best answer I can come up with is it's the primers but I don't really know. One thing is different about this batch of primers. I bought them off the shelf at Bass Pro instead of getting them (presumably) fresh from the factory. Have any of you ever seen anything like this?
  7. I have been reloading for a G34 for years and it has been very forgiving to my terrible reloading skills. I have been reloading for a Tanfoglio Stock 2 about a year now and still have not settled on a reliable load. It has made me question a lot about my current thoughts on reloading. To the Enos hive mind I go for answers. Current load is 1.135 OAL, 4.8 gr HS-6, Federal primers, 147 gr Blue Bullet, and it comes in at a 130 PF. Questions: 1: In precision rifle shooting, you almost always get better accuracy by loading the OAL to be .010 - .015 off the lands of the rifling. For a pistol, does it really matter that much? In uspsa, the targets are so close (30 yards and in). I worry that loading with a longer OAL than 1.100 it will cause reliability issues with feeding and ejecting. 2: By loading with a longer OAL, do I have to use more powder to achieve a specific power factor? 3: I currently use HS-6. I have been told I should use a faster powder like Tight Group. Is a faster burning powder really going to generate less recoil and burn cleaner than HS-6? 4: I use a factory crimp die. How do I know if I am crimping too much? How do I know if I am not crimping enough? 5: I am having regular Stove pipes, 1 out of every 100 rounds. Aside from shooter error or gun issues, is their anything that could cause this that is only related to the ammo? I realize I have a lot of questions and I am sorry for posting so many all in one post. Problem is I have a lot of questions. Thanks in advance for the help.
  8. I have two 1050s (one RL and one Super), both of which will, from time to time, give a "whack" on the very end of the upstroke, following which powder will be ejected from pistol brass in particular. This is when the charged cartridge - sans bullet - is in the position following the powder charge postition. For the life of me I can't figure out what makes this happen. It's a pretty forcefull impact of .. well, something or another, and powder can be spilled pretty much all over the cartridge plate. I have dismantled, cleaned, etc. No luck. I don't think it's the plate indexing arm, which has a spring tensioned tab on it. The spring isn't particularly powerful, and the tab isn't heavy enough to make such an impact. Ideas, anyone? Siphon
  9. Hello guys, Does anyone have experience with this gun powder " Optima A" ? The label says it is made in Spain by MAXAM , but have no reference to reload. A good friend of mine share with me one pound of this but can't find any reference to use it. This is an image of the powder bottle, the label is in spanish and says " Smokeless powder".
  10. New to reloading. as a matter of fact, all I have now is powder, primers, empty spent brass, and bullets. bought these when they were available even though I haven't a reloading press yet. anyway, what is the proper way to store powder and primers SAFELY. Should they be in separate locations? On open shelving or within cabinets? Cool and dry locations such as a dry basement? Would be very grateful for advice. Live in Colorado if there are different regulations or laws for each state. Thanks.
  11. My goal is to approximate the sweet snappy recoil of my protection ammo in practice reloads. Carrying Speer Gold Dot 40 S&W GDHPs alternating both 165 & 180 gr. in my well-trained and nicely modified M&P full frame (heavier guide rod & spring, four varied Apex upgrade kits, Polymer Trigger & Improved Extractor). I need the advice of one who's attempted same or generally loads practice rounds for that quick snappy less muzzle lift more predictable sight tracking and faster slide-cycling kind of recoil I get from Gold Dots. I've read this can best be achieved by using light bullet weights in combo w/ medium burn rate powders. Suggestions for specific powder and bullet combos appreciated. So far I've tried HS-6 using min to max powder loads w/ 165s. Even min is slow and pushy w/ muzzle over-lift while max is WAY over powered enough to rattle my slide & recoil spring/guide rod enough to be heard thru electronic ear protection. Speer 40 S&W GDHP Reported Muzzle Velocities: 165 - 1150 (Starting FPS) 180 - 1025 (Starting FPS) Closest I've found so far numbers-wise: RBR* Powder Gr Starting Muzzle FPS 44 Hodgon CFE 6.8 1149 *Relative Burn Rate Thanks in advance for your advice.
  12. Trying to come up with a new load using 200gr RN Xtreame bullets. I have a P14 with a Schuemann ultimatch barrel. With the steep feed ramp on it, it seems to like longer rounds but I can't get it to make major PF without a impressive fireball rolling out the barrel. I have used Tight Group, Ram Shot Competition, CFE pistol and will pickup some solo tomorrow. Ive tried loading OAL from 1.245 to 1.265, using CCI primers and once fired, mixed brass but the fireball remains (@ major pf). Any powder recommendations, loads recipes, etc will be greatly appreciated.
  13. Developing a .45 ACP Major PF load using Berry's 230gr TMJ-RN bullets. Trying to keep the PF right at 168 out of a 5" barrel. Currently use Titegroup for 9mm and .40, but was wondering if others found a softer shooting/less smoky powder for .45.
  14. Hey guys, I have a somewhat complicated issue to explain and try fix. The gun i am having trouble with is the BUL M5 Government 9mm. The barrel has 2 ports on the end (not strictly a compensator). In shooting IPSC obviously it is considered an open class gun because of such ports. I am continually getting jams in the gun, specifically failure to feed (out of battery) and failure to extract. I have eliminated certain elements that could cause the jams and these are: 1) I DON'T limp wrist. I know it is the first thing everyone asks when dealing with jams, dont ask me because i dont limp wrist. 2) My rounds do factor through a chrono for minor power factor. 3) my brass is thoroughly checked cleaned and i plunk test all the rounds. 4) according to every gun smith i have spoken to, my magazine springs, followers, base pads etc are all good. I also make sure they are clean. 5) gun is always clean and lubricated correctly. 6) My OAL is correct for the gun and all rounds cycle smoothly. I am reloading using s121 powder (fast burning) with a 124gr bullet. I have found a possible cause of the jams. This could be loading the rounds too hot? and causing the gun to cycle too fast. I found this out by shooting my reloads vs bought reloads. the bought reloads grouped extremely well where as my reloads were all over the place. This i figured out was because of too much pressure exiting the ports on the barrel causing the gun to move too much. I went back to my reloading data and found that i factored at 4.4 gr but i was actually putting in 4.7 gr due to increasing the length. what i have done is bring the powder down to 4.3gr and i will be shooting the rounds this weekend hopefully with no jams. What my question is, is it possible that a gun can jam when running too hot a load through it? i.e. the action closing too fast therefore causing a failure to feed and the action opening too fast that the extractor, in lay mans terms, looses grip of the brass casing to extract it?
  15. When I started reloading I didn't know what to do, so I got in good with someone who did. Bayou 147 grain flatpoint 3.0 grains of Titegroup Loaded to 1.14 OAL Range brass Winchester primers Last year I was shooting a Glock and this load was fine (soft and accurate) but next year I'm buying a 2011. I plan to test my existing load first but what are other 2011 shooters doing? Moly bullets? Jacketed bullets? Specific powder? OAL lengths? (I plan to do some actual testing in the spring too but like to have the discussion in the meantime)
  16. I just bought a STI Edge in .40 and plan to start shooting Limited, but have never loaded .40 S&W or for major power factor. I have been using VV N320 in my 9mm Production loads and would like to use it for my STI also. My initial plans are to use Bayou 180gr poly coated FP bullets. SAAMI specifications call for an OAL between 1.085 and 1.135 with flat point bullets. I've heard that a lot of STI Edge shooters load their .40 rounds "longer" to feed better. Is loading longer worthwhile? How long is longer? Do any of you have a major load using N320 and 180gr FP bullets for an STI Edge in .40 S&W that you would be willing to share?
  17. Just wondering if any one reloaded 45 ACP with Pyrodex P? How good is Pyrodex P with semi-automatic pistol?
  18. I won 500 rounds of Ibeji moly bullets, so I got a 500 pack of their 230gr RNs. This is my first time to use moly - usually, I go with Xtreme plated, but since these are free... So for those using moly, what is your powder of choice? While I'm asking - did you change your recoil spring to accommodate the load? (currently using an 18 or 18.5) Of course, the end goal is to find a load that makes Major and groups well. Thanks in advance!
  19. I have just got my 1050 in today and got it setup. I was dialing in the powder charge on 223 but started noticing a few specs of powder on the shell plate. I got to watching carefully and realized that the powder was kind of sloshing out of the case as it indexed to the next position after the powder drop. I am not slamming the handle or going fast. Indeed I am going pretty slow. So I am not sure what is going on. Could this be just the table I have it mounted to is not stable enough?
  20. I just recently started shooting Open, and man am I having trouble finding reloading components! I finally found brass, and luckily I have 2lbs of HS-6 lying around, but that'll be gone soon. Where are you guys finding stuff? I've heard that finding 3n38 this year will be harder than finding Jimmy Hoffa (sorry, couldn't resist) because of the Lapua acquisition. I can't even find HS-6 anymore. Thoughts?
  21. I've been reloading handgun rounds for a while now so I'm not entirely unfamiliar with the process involved with reloading. However, I've been shooting a lot of 12ga (#6, BB, 00Buck) and would like to spend less on new 12ga ammo. I've been saving my hulls and have a Lee Load All 2 and the Lyman 49th shotshell manual and about 50 Winchester WAA12 Wads. Questions: 1. Should I stick with Winchester or Remington primers or are Cheddite primers just as good? 2. I've heard once you start using Cheddite primers you have to stick with them because they supposedly widen the primer pocket just slightly. Thoughts on this? 3. Any powders or wads I should stay away from? I've dot plenty of load data so I'm not going to pester anyone for data (yet) but anything y'all can help me watch out for would be appreciated. I apologize in advance if these questions have been asked before. -JD
  22. To follow on the thread just previously posted, what are some powder/primer/bullet combinations to avoid? For example, using a slower burning powder with moly-coated bullets?? Everyone seems to have a preference on what they like, but I'm sure there's some good stories on things that didn't work out as well as expected!
  23. I came into a good stash of LT32 and with the scarcity of my preferred powders I've been trying to work with it with limited success. I have the data from Accurate but my accuracy is inconsistent and velocities less than other powders even loading to Max with the 223 data. There are no over pressure signs and there is data for 5.56 which I'm considering working slowly into before giving up. Any one with experience and data on this, regardless of bullet weight, is greatly appreciated.
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