MemphisMechanic

Every bullet is different in it's allowable OAL to spin: Conduct the plunk and spin test with the bullet you want to load at 1.165...1.160... 1.155... until a dummy chambers and spins freely. Then load .005" or so shorter than that, and call it good.

Definitely change grip panels. I run the SSI Scales 2.0 grips on my Tanfoglio. With the factory grips - which are contoured much like yours - I had to flip the pistol in my hand in order to thumb the mag catch. It's an easy reach without shifting my grip, now. Only the bottom 2/3s of the Scales grips have an outward bulge: And "mag swap" is an unconventional phrase, just so you're aware. If you call it a reload or a mag change you'll give everyone around here a better idea what you're referring to.

Built my own. It was extremely easy. You know those rifle-bolt style door locks? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Barrel-Bolt-15242/202033945 Cut that notch in a piece of conduit. Drop a steel rod with a spring around it inside, and weld an old bolt to the rod, sticking out your L shaped hole at 90 degrees. Stomp on the plywood and it rotates the bolt down until the spring sends it shooting backward.

That is one of the sexier Open guns I've seen in some time.

Oh! I mentioned polishing that spot on your frame in my Tanfoglio Tuning videos because my gun showed contact there. But I can say with certainty that taking the gun apart specifically to polish the tip of the disconnector and that spot on the frame had absolutely no affect on my trigger pull. I tested it out of curiosity. Wait until you have the gun apart for other reasons.

WST is terrific behind 135s and 147s, never loaded 124s with it.

On the sides of the hammer where it pivots in the frame? Definitely doesn't hurt anything to smooth that out. I did.

Sure about that? The obviously non-stock GrayGuns trigger for the P320 has been declared legal. Obviosuly aftermarket hammers for CZs are now legal too.

Not from that angle, it doesn't. The weak hand is where most of us need to improve our grip pressure (crush that gun!) and how high we hold the gun when we start shooting USPSA. Can't see it.

Everyone I know of has either filed down the bottom surface on the FPB which contacts the sear, or the "square tab / ear" on the inside of the block which actually contacts the firing pin. I don't know of anyone other than yourself who has tried to fit things by shaping the sear leg instead. I can't say if there is a reason for that or not. The FPB being the cheapest part means that is what I chose to remove material from.

If you're using a digital caliper, the cheap ones (sub $50) often are barely accurate to .001" ... so keep that in mind. Unless you're measuring with a micrometer, you don't have the accuracy to distinguish .3555" from .3560". We're working at the very limit of our China Depot measuring implements.

If it's a dedicated carry Optics competition gun? Pull the sights off. Done.

How do you dryfire currently, if you do have a consistent regimen? Let's start there. My biggest help personally... has been pulling the trigger less in dryfire. Transition sight pictures from target to target as fast as I can see. No longer as fast as I can slap. Mixing close gimme targets with a large 'error zone' ... with the equivalent of 20yd plates, and not leaving until I get a sufficient sight picture to hit that particular target.

19/2011 = highly reliable once expertly gunsmithed. Glock = highly reliable until "expertly" gunsmithed.

The Dawson sights are much like your Performance Center FO Sights. Except they're even better.

Critique? Start shooting it clean and your scores will be better. Genius, eh?

What was the standard deviation on them? (Assuming you have a sample size of 10 or more, so the data has some kind of significance)

Sounds like the best way to go. Shoot it for most of the year and test drive all of your buddies guns at each match. You should be well aware of what you want in a full custom by this fall, and could have it built and ready by next spring... when people will be likely to splurge on that used CK for their own first 2011 to shoot 2018 with.

$2-4,000 into a G19 for carry? That thing would have been doomed! One thing USPSA will teach you is that Glocks work and work as long as you stick with $100 worth of springs and polishing like Productions GMs tend to prefer. The ones that choke all the time always seem to be the ones heavily modified for Limited division. With roughly $2,000 + of slide lightening and unobtanium parts.

Direct link: https://m.facebook.com/NighthawkCustomFirearms/photos/a.175319217817.153541.169523897817/10156228256922818/?type=3

He needs to buy a lottery ticket. Other than leaving the gun as dirty as anything that doesn't end in "N320" my only gripe about RSComp was the SD over 20 in every single 135-147gr load I worked up. And I wasn't the only one. Its my "practice ammo powder" now, until it's gone.

This. Shooting outdoors and doing anything other than being within 4 feet of an Open gun, they're very sufficient by themselves. Also cheap enough I simply make new ones annually, but they're still always good to go when I make new ones and pitch the old.

You want to make sure that when the firing pin block is released (dropped downward) it blocks the pin. But when lifted slightly, that it will clear. There isn't much difference between fitting it correctly and overfitting so that the safety doesn't function, so go slow. I found coating the pin and block in sharpie and dryfiring it, looking for interference, to be very helpful.

Leave the FPB out of the gun and go shoot it for 500 trouble-free rounds (I shot a bunch of local matches like that - no one checks your gun) then reinstall it. If the issue returns you know for certain it's the culprit. The easiest way to fit it is to file down the flat surface that's visible with the slide stripped off the gun. You can also remove material off the top of the square ear that actually blocks the firing pin. In either case, remove material very slowly. You don't want to remove too much, and a couple of thousandths is typically sufficient.

Interesting front sight. Is that some method of making the dot from the fiber even smaller?