MemphisMechanic

I wouldn’t say nobody. I think more people choose the S2 for the hardchrome and the incredibly accurate cone-fit barrel, than are concerned about the balance or the rail. Those are the reasons I was tempted. I chose the 3 because I knew I was going to cerakote whatever I bought.

The brownells reamer will not work with a gun that has a polygonally rifled barrel. You need one specifically made with a smaller pilot on the tip in order for it to work. I’ve reamed four gun barrels and I’m comfortable doing it. But I sent my Tanfoglio barrel to Bevin Grams.

That’s sexy. Are the front cocking serrations factory?

@yigal that isn’t the square-trigger guard competition frame, though. Interesting. Small-frame gun or large?

It’s called “plunk and spin” for a reason: To determine how long you CAN load, start with a dummy round that’s loaded too long. Drop it in, and it won’t even fully chamber. That’s easy. Now let’s say you load load one .020” shorter, and it drops in. When you try to spin the case in the barrel, it’s sticking. A lot. Your bullet is caught in the rifling. Shorten up dummy #3 maybe .010” and this time it spins freely: now you know exactly how long you can load your ammo in THAT gun using THAT brand and weight of bullet. (Sure, you can also just arbitrarily load your ammo super short, like your stuff that’s at 1.090” if you prefer to do it that way.) I like knowing more information: My Q5 Match has a super short chamber and a hardened barrel you cannot ream. I know my 125 TC profile ammo hits the rifling at 1.124” precisely... so I load at 1.115” and never, ever have to worry about feeding issues. I also know my pressures are just a pinch lower than if I had decided to randomly load my ammo at 1.085” or something. And remember, each time you change bullet weights or brands, or pick up a different Stock 2, you do need to perform that test all over again.

I have to say that I love everything about the 2.5MOA DeltaPoint. I run it in CO and on my .22 pistol in steel challenge. Small enough for the tightest 20yd headshots, but so damn bright that (when turned full up ) it is easier to track than the dimmer 8MOA C-more on the brightest days. I usually have it 1 or 2 notches below full power, or lower if it’s not really bright that day.

Depends on the shooter. Those of us who have cut our teeth in plastic guns are used to 1/2” of take-up before hitting the wall on every trigger press. When shooting fast, you let the trigger out into that slack area, return to the wall, and press. The hardest thing to get used in my Tanfoglio was a trigger that had 1/16” travel to rest and then STOPPED. Your finger comes clear of the trigger when shooting fast, and running back into it? Had to relearn my trigger control to avoid pulling the second shot down at high speeds, at first.

I have never touched a Canik. I’d go Walther just for holster, mag, and parts availability though. I had a machinist at work turn a stainless steel version of the factory guide rod, and I run an uncaptured 13 lb 1911 flat-wire spring on it.

Because we want them ferociously, but we’re a tiny market segment. You could import 100 LPs, sell one to everyone on BE who wants one, and have quite a few guns left over. They make money importing guns by the thousand, I’d imagine.

...but only if the barrel isn’t hardened. M&P, XD, Walther, and Glock all run a hardened barrel that will ruin a reamer in the first couple of turns. Most 1911 barrels and my Apex M&P match barrel cut like butter.

23 + 1 actually. Never failed to function when barney’d up all the way. TTI pad. Grams follower and spring for the P-320, with the tab that locks the slide open ground off. (I usually load them to 23 then strip a round out at LAMR for 22+1, unless there’s some reason the extra round or two will be a serious advantage.)

Take your priming system apart and clean it. You’ll be amazed how filthy it is in there.

I switched bullets and powders in the last 8 years the way you switched guns in 2017. 147 FMJ. 130gr coated. 124gr fmj. 147gr coated. 135gr coated. 150gr SWC coated. 135 coated. Finally back to 125 coated. In a polymer gun there’s a pinch of difference in the 147 vs 124. In a metal gun? Man, find a good price on a 125/125 and shoot the snot out of them with a soft powder. You’re not giving up anything at all. Except in your head. Just like all your gun swapping taught you.

You cannot possibly know that for the chambers onhis guns, with a nice fat round nose bullet we know he’s using. Example: 124 RN acme = 1.110” or shorter to fit a specific M&P. 125 TC from BBI = 1.150” plunks and spins effortlessly. You have exactly zero data to determine if he’s okay on his length. The new Glocks don’t even have the same “chambers anything that fits in the mags” throats that the older ones did. You always have to test. Every bullet. In every barrel it will be fed to.

Do it. I loaded for 8 years without one. Do not wait that long. Go with the Mr Bulletfeeder. Increibly easy setup. Don’t look back.

My reply to you would be identical to my suggestion in this thread: http://forums.brianenos.com/topic/256547-occasional-hot-rounds/?do=findComment&comment=2851577

Drive the trigger pin out with a punch - or just lightly push it out if you’re smart enough to be running the CGW Canik pin. Flip the frame over, rails down, so that the magwell is sticking up. Put a hand over the magwell opening. Slide the punch out of the frame. TING! The trigger spring bounces around inside the frame a few times, then is lying on the table when you pick the frame up and peek.

How to tune Q5 Match or PPQ: 1) take extensive photos / videos as you tear down the gun 2) polish all the places shooting it has made shiny from metal-on-metal 3) reassemble accordingcto your photos and enjoy a massively clean and shootable 5.0ish pound trigger That’s all I did. Still running all the stock springs. Replacing the trigger return spring alone drops it under 3 pounds... but it loses its crispness. Mine is factory minus grip tape, front sight, and 13lb recoil spring / guide rod.

4.5 or 5 pound striker spring. Full weight factory striker. Those aren’t suggestions for a truly relaible Glock that is fed factory ammo and not designer reloads. They’re mandatory.

@Fasthenk65 You’re referring to the notch I ground in the sear in my videos? @johnbu advised me to do that. Mostly to reduce the effective rate of the spring slightly. I very much enjoy shooting a plastic gun again. I don’t think it gives anything up to the Tanfoglio: light guns drive between close targets more agressively but aren’t as stable on distant targets. I personally shoot more accurately with a trigger than rolls back under pressure, instead of remaining frozen until it breaks like glass. I like the Walther. It’s scary accurate, just like the Stock 3 was. Pick the one you like the most and practice.

For the record, if you decide to switch bullets? The wonderfully pointy truncated-cone profile from Black Bullets International will load out to 1.150” in an M&P barrel where a fat 135 RN would only let me load to 1.105” I think Blue and Bayou use the same mold: that profile is wonderful in short chambered guns.

I taught myself to grip the gun hard with my offhand by picking the gun up repeatedly and gripping it right until THAT was my new normal. I advise no trigger pull. They distract. I didn’t even use a holster for this fryfire: keep the gun out and handy throughout the evening. Pick it up wvery few minutes, and obtain a proper grip and sight picture. Grip the gun twice as hard with your offhand as you usually do. If you’re not thinking about anytiing else (like pressing the trigger or drawing from a holster) it becomes easy to only focus on the one remaining thing: grip pressure.

Correct. If Tanfoglio is smart they’ll start making a Stock III Unica Ultra-Extreme, which will have every Unica part installed on it from the factory, and get it IPSC/USPSA approved. Then again, you can now run any aftermarket CZ hammer or Sig Trigger that your heart desires in USPSA. So maybe just shoot Unica parts and assume you’re all good. ?

No. It HIGHLY depends on the profile of the bullet. Go back to my post and read “step 1” You need to verify that you have at least 0.010” space with the longest round your press produces, which means you need to know how long you can actually go: