jpl

Mainspring housings are different. One from a single stack will fit but have a big gap at the rear of the frame/magwell area.

That is some really good advice!

You need to widen the trigger shoe channel in STI frames to get the trigger in. Takes a fair amount of time with a file, but you can do it. The length of the bow is another issue. Do a search on here for the thread by Dan Bedell on using the STI bow on the SV base. It's not that hard of a change to make. As mentioned above, you can also reshape the SV bow to shorten it to give you adequate take-up. I modified a trigger anvil and made a punch to move the center of the back of the bow forward, but as Pat Miles said above, it will take some time fitting the width of the bow to the grip. I think the easiest fix is to just swap the bows.

Get a hold of Gary or Tim and ask them what's going on. As stated you DO NOT need to be a member of a club to join the Section. From the bylaws: 3.1.1. REGULAR MEMBERSHIP -- A shooter may become a "Regular Member" of the Northwest Section by -- (I) Passing a Shooter Safety Check, (2) Safely completing three USPSA approved matches, and, (3) submitting a one-time registration fee, which shall be set by the Section Executive Committee. He or she shall then be entered in the Section Database and maintained there so long as he or she shall meet the eligibility requirements of the Section and the USPSA. 3.1.2. ACTIVE MEMBERSHIP -- To be an Active Member of the Section, a shooter must meet all requirements for Regular membership, and, in addition, be 3.1.2.1. A USPSA member in good standing 3.1.2.2. A member in good standing of an IPSC affiliated club in the Section, and, 3.1.2.3. A resident of Washington State And as previously stated you can play in the series and compete for series awards but you will not be elgible for a section slot unless you are an "Active Member" as defined above.

Larry, Congrats!!!

Or you can get an alignment reamer from EGW and get your comp reamed concentric with your barrel bore. http://www.egwguns.com/gunsmithing-tools/9mm/38-alignment-reamer/

The Super is a straight walled case and the 9x23 is tapered. You could use a snap guage and a micrometer and measure the chamber mouth and deeper into the chamber. Are they the same or does the chamber get smaller the deeper you go? If it gets smaller it is the 9x23.

Never mind. Didn't read the full title, sorry.

What Benny said. If the hook has been radiused (is that a word?) it is probably toast and depending on how the ejector has been cut it may need to be replaced too. That ejection pattern is classic G.I., up and out! With some tuning/unmolested parts it can be set up to eject to the side.

Chris, get the Tripp's and don't look back. I have some new ones that you can try out, just give me a call.

Could you please explain what you mean by this. The only cracks I have ever seen in C-More have been user induced. Bases will crack if screws are overtightened. I have seen them rammed into ports, hitting the upper edges with the lens and not look much worse for wear or lose zero. I just don't understand the "will crack over time" comment.

And some of the reasons it does that are: Strut too short Ti strut worn and egg shaped the hole Cap retaining pin hole in MSH is too low (I found one of these just this past week.) Generally you do want the hammer, while at rest, to be making contact with the firing pin stop. If it is not it is likely stopping on the retaining pin, as mentioned, and that is not a "good thing". Think about it. The 1911 is an inertia firing pin design. That means that the hammer smacks the firing pin and sends it toward the primer. If it's stopping on the retainer pin, it now is an inertia hammer, too. So you're hoping the hammer has enough mass and speed to whack the firing pin hard enough to drive it into the primer, since it is "floating" between the mainspring cap and the firing pin. I like a more "direct drive" system. A lot of us are using long firing pins, so that when the hammer is at rest there is actually pin protruding from the breech face. No more inertia. It is a direct connection from the mainspring to the primer. Posititve ignition. If the op's pistol was mine, I'd fix it.

Chris, also keep in mind that some of the weights quoted may be for Caspian or other than STI slides. The difference in width is somewhere around .010 +/-. That difference would not be major in total weight, but should be accounted for. Also, are all of the weights quoted for the slide, complete, or are some bare slide only? I don't know, just asking. As you know, I don't weigh slides. I don't even have an accurate scale that would weigh in that range. I've never been concerned about it. I'm more concerned about how the pistol performs and feels. How it cycles and returns. How you can track the sights. I really don't care what it weighs. I care about performance. If your objective is to get both of the top ends to weigh the same maybe adding weight to the 5" slide is an option. Take a look at this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24722/Product/TUNGSTEN_GUIDE_ROD_PLUGS That will add almost an ounce to the weight of your 5", bringing it to within 4/10 of an ounce of your 6" top end. If, on the other hand, your objective is to get the weight of the 6" to be the same as the 5", I'd be happy to work with you to achieve that. Give me a call.

Serendipity. Doesn't cost extra. Doesn't weigh as much as an aluminum mount plus the sight. Keeps the lens lower to the bore axis than a seperate mount. Not sure what the downside is. A mount leg on the right side of the frame? I don't know. Just sayin'.

His website says he's still experiencing power outages.

These:

Have you used a magic marker on the rails to see where it is binding? Hard chrome is famous for "dog boning" where material builds on the edges where there is a corner, like the corners of the rails on both the slide and frame. Take a look and see if you can see anything there. If it is built up there, use a fine stone to just knock it off the edge and then see if it will start onto the frame. If it is built up on the flat surfaces of the rails then you are looking at basically re-fitting the slide/frame.

Mobil 1, very wet. After lubing I will hand cycle it 10 to 15 times and wipe the excess off, usually at the back of the frame and thecomp/slide junction. I will also clean it between matches. Most Open guns are well fit, after all you are aiming the frame in most instances. I want to do what I can to maximize the life of the fit and keep the gun hitting where the dot is for as long as I can. I've been using Mobil 1 for years and have no complaints.

Check and see where the slide is hitting the comp. No way it should be coming loose if it has loc-tite on it. And Green is the best, #648. It will take a lot of heat to remove the comp it you want to, much more than the gun can generate.

Put lock-tite on the bushings and screw them back into the frame. Let it set up and then remove the grips as you normally would.

Adam, you will need to replace it with an integrated cone/comp due to the length of the barrel. Your other options are to replace the barrel, too, or turn it into a shorty. But I don't think the lightening cuts in the slide will allow you to shorten it. Get a hold of Keith T. and see if he will sell you the comp off his gun. We are making it a shorty and using a new barrel and comp. Hope that helps. -JPL

OK, I give up. Please educate this ignorant redneck. What's the VIS? VIS - vertical impact surface. It is what is supposed to stop the rearward movement of the barrel when it unlocks and moves to the rear. The back ot the lower lugs are supposed to make contact with it and stop the movement. If not it will break links and do other not so nice stuff.

As long as the timing is good and the Kimber barrel makes proper contact with the VIS and drops down far enough to give you the required clearance at the top lugs you, should be ok. If it's off you could mess up both the slide and barrel, a very expensive experiment.

I don't know if SV changed their singlestack triggers too. If not, use that as a donor for the base and put it on the STI bow as AWLAZS detailed above. An added benefit is the lesser cost of the singlestack/1911 part.

I really like KKM and use them in all of my builds unless the customer specifies something different. They are super accurate and they chrono faster than Schuemann and STI Trubore in my experience. They also cost less than Schuemann.