Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About jpl

  • Rank
    Looks for Target

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Redmond, WA
  • Real Name
    John Larson

Recent Profile Visitors

1,139 profile views
  1. I have searched and come up dry. Metaloy (Chris Peters) still isn't taking work in. I've heard/seen rumors that Tripp is doing hard chrome for Atlas. I have a project in the shop now that the customer wants hard chromed. Who do you guys recommend?? Thanks for the help.
  2. John, adjust the leaf spring so you have 8 oz. on the disconnector. That should let everything work like it's supposed to.
  3. Can't really tell where the crack is in the pic. I have seen cracks at the front of the extractor tunnel, on the bottom, and have stop drilled them. I have a personal pistol that did that and I drilled it. No problem.
  4. jpl

    Open gun lengths

    And the new gun has the right colors: purple and gold!!!
  5. Stress risers at the corner of the cuts. Cuts not properly de-burred and sharp edges softened.
  6. Extreme Engineering, hands down. I have used them in all of my builds since 1995. Cylinder and Slide as well as Brazo's, and many others, are EE parts.
  7. jpl

    Ejector Rejector

    Looking at the extractor hook from the center line of the pistol, does the hook have a radius at the bottom, front to back? If so, that will allow the empty to tip up and leave the pistol rising instead of moving out sideways. I am not familiar with Tanfoglio's but the basic ejector/extractor principles should be the same.
  8. jpl

    Ejector Rejector

    You want the ejector shaped so that the top of the ejector hits the case before the bottom. The picture of the ejector in this thread clearly shows the bottom of the ejector forward of the top. That will drive the case up and not have it come out flat, to the right. Also, look at the shape of the extractor hook. A radius on the bottom will direct the case to flip up rather than to drive it out at 2:30 - 3:00 o'clock.
  9. You will need the back of the comp or the front of the slide cut at an approx. 1 deg. angle. You don't want the slide to ever touch the comp when cycling. I set up my builds with about .005 clearance. The hood will wear over time and the extra clearance lets you go longer before having to reset the loose comp (from the slide hitting it) and reset the clearance. The 1 deg. has nothing to do with the bushing but everything to do with the lockup angle when the barrel is in battery.
  10. From your pictures it appears to me that your frame has been cut through what would have been the vertical impact surface all the way to the mag well. If that's the case you'll have to start with a new frame and go from there.
  11. jwhittin, it's not the barrel. It's the frame lug at the front of the trigger guard. But thanks for the reply!
  • Create New...