jpl

SV trigger in a STI frame is too long and the half cock notch will not engage. One of the ways to address this is to swage the rear of the bow forward to gain the clearance needed for a safe trigger. Another approach is to put the SV base on a STI bow.

It's +.082 past the center of 0,000.

Yes and no! It's odd that the frame is wider than the safety but it is normal for STI. The width of the grip safety does not match the frame and that corner/edge of the frame is what bites you. I use a lot of Ed Brown grip safeties and don't have that problem with them I tape the grip safety in the down position and blend the frame to match the grip safety, eliminating the sharp corner. -JPL

STI's grip safeties don't fit their frames. The frame is wider than the safety, sticking out to the left. That is probably what is biting your thumb. You can file and sand it to blend the sharp edge.

Only if you changed to a bull barrel, or installed a conversion cone on the barrel or switched to a threaded bushing barrel and a comp with a .575 x 40 thread. Otherwise you won't have a lock-up point at the front.

The extractor is not hanging onto the empty case. Try more tension.

Yeah, they do. It's just a major move from a few years ago when STI said that they manufactured ALL of their parts, except springs and pins, in house. Their parts quality took a major dive about the time they partnered with Armscor on the Spartan. They had a major problem with slides cracking about 2 years ago. Both as parts they sold as well as their complete pistols. I got a slide from them in November that you couldn't get the reverse plug into the cut in the slide when the pistol was assembled and I had to re-cut it. I also had 4 builds crack slides with as low as 30 rounds on the pistol.

Do they make STI slides too??

Take the firing pin stop out and try it. Measure the width of the stop and compare it to the slide from the side of the rail to the right side of the fps slot.

Or maybe primer flow??

1. 830 2. 920 3. 750 4. 750

Yup, you can use a regular bull barrel with the island cut no problem.

That looks like a SV tube and follower. If I remember correctly the red follower is for 40.

0.135" from the top of the dust cover to the center of the hole.

.500" forward of the center of the slide stop hole and .135" down from the top of the dust cover. Serendipity's are .750 center to center hole spacing and most other mounts will have 2 additional holes between the center and the ends at .375.

Check with Kensight. They sell screws and pins for their sights. I would call them and talk with someone rather than try to find what you want on the web site.

Seems like everybody is using basically the same parts, so I would go with someone that builds the gun in the style you like.

The cut for the island removes the area that has cracked on the DVC slides that I have seen and experienced.

And the disconnector notch is not centered in the rail. One side is really thin.

Since the middle of last year with slides I bought from SpeedShooters. It won't hurt anything to keep shooting it. One of them that broke on me, the customer had me extend the slot cut to the end of the slide, similar to the slide cut for a hybrid barrel. It should run as long as any pistol with a hybrid barrel.

Every sideways mount that I have installed, come with screws.

Specialized. The factory screws are 5-40 with a #6 head on them.

There is .006" clearance between the comp and slide.

Brand new build. Test fired 25 rounds to function test it today and came back and found this. This is the 4th STI slide that has cracked like this on new builds in the last year. One went 50 rounds and 2 others cracked at around 1k. I have done the slot cut for years and never experienced a failure until this. As someone mentioned above, STI had a problem with slides cracking a few years ago, and I think they do again.

It is probably 23#. Try adjusting the leaf spring. Put 8 oz. on the center leaf and adjust the left leaf to the trigger pull you want. In my experience the factory settings are extremely heavy.