jpl

At link down is the barrel contacting the VIS? If not it is stopping on the link and that condition will break links, guaranteed! Paint the back of the feet with a marker and put the top end on the frame without the recoil system. Move the slide to the rear and tap the muzzle a few times with a plastic or leather hammer. Remove the top end and look at the VIS and the back of the barrel feet for contact marks. If you don's see any the barrel is not moving far enough to the rear and is incorrectly fit.

if it has excessive movement side to side try spreading the bow for a little tighter fit in the grip channels.

What Dan said!!!

What is bullet roll? Do you mean bullet tumbling and key holing?

How heavy is the recoil spring??

Extreme Engineering ultra lite all the way!

No. It needs to be fit like any other 1911. If it is a drop-in part chances are real good it will have ejection issues.

If it is stringing vertically as it warms up check for barrel springing. Take the top end off the frame and remove the recoil system. Press the barrel up into the slide lugs. Does it stay there or "spring" back down? If it is springing the front of the barrel is not fit correctly.

Yup, I have one that won't shut off. Haven't sent it back yet,

I have searched and come up dry. Metaloy (Chris Peters) still isn't taking work in. I've heard/seen rumors that Tripp is doing hard chrome for Atlas. I have a project in the shop now that the customer wants hard chromed. Who do you guys recommend?? Thanks for the help.

John, adjust the leaf spring so you have 8 oz. on the disconnector. That should let everything work like it's supposed to.

Can't really tell where the crack is in the pic. I have seen cracks at the front of the extractor tunnel, on the bottom, and have stop drilled them. I have a personal pistol that did that and I drilled it. No problem.

And the new gun has the right colors: purple and gold!!!

Stress risers at the corner of the cuts. Cuts not properly de-burred and sharp edges softened.

Extreme Engineering, hands down. I have used them in all of my builds since 1995. Cylinder and Slide as well as Brazo's, and many others, are EE parts.

Looking at the extractor hook from the center line of the pistol, does the hook have a radius at the bottom, front to back? If so, that will allow the empty to tip up and leave the pistol rising instead of moving out sideways. I am not familiar with Tanfoglio's but the basic ejector/extractor principles should be the same.

You want the ejector shaped so that the top of the ejector hits the case before the bottom. The picture of the ejector in this thread clearly shows the bottom of the ejector forward of the top. That will drive the case up and not have it come out flat, to the right. Also, look at the shape of the extractor hook. A radius on the bottom will direct the case to flip up rather than to drive it out at 2:30 - 3:00 o'clock.

You will need the back of the comp or the front of the slide cut at an approx. 1 deg. angle. You don't want the slide to ever touch the comp when cycling. I set up my builds with about .005 clearance. The hood will wear over time and the extra clearance lets you go longer before having to reset the loose comp (from the slide hitting it) and reset the clearance. The 1 deg. has nothing to do with the bushing but everything to do with the lockup angle when the barrel is in battery.

From your pictures it appears to me that your frame has been cut through what would have been the vertical impact surface all the way to the mag well. If that's the case you'll have to start with a new frame and go from there.

Gans.

The PT marketing department.

Yes.

jwhittin, it's not the barrel. It's the frame lug at the front of the trigger guard. But thanks for the reply!

Thanks dsa!

I have a customer with a custom STI pistol, not a factory gun, that has broken the front lug off, I think due to an improperly fit Cheely grip. Does anyone know of or can recommend a shop that can correctly repair the frame? Thanks for your help!