eric nielsen Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 (edited) I have had all of those problems with Caspian Glock slides; John@SJC has seen even worse. Check your gun for free movement of the striker by dry-firing it and then shaking the gun fwd/back several times. You should hear "tink" in both directions. The drop-safety plunger can get in the way of that if you have a trigger stop, seems to be a worse problem with Caspian, and yes the striker tunnel is cut far away from the center of the primer impression. You should ink up your striker with Sharpie and see if anything on the striker is rubbing - look at the bottom of the tip and the bottom corners of the front section. Also check your extractor for free movement [not just tension] with any Caspian slide. You can change the shape of the striker tip if you want to make it hit closer to the center of your primers. My buffers are from a Home Depot assortment of faucet washers, the hole is a little smaller than the Glock guide rod so it's a squeeze. Once on the rod I trim the diameter with scissors and then use a file to make them round. The ones I use are about .10" and .15" thick for a total of .25" behind the spring. They are getting hit square on by the back of the spring so they are not deforming like the POS gray buffers from you-know-where. What you need will depend on your spring and your gun. If you use a shortened ISMI spring, you might need less or more thickness, easy to check for: I marked my frame for full-rear travel - took the guiderod, spring, barrel, and striker assy out of my slide and slid it back to where it hits the frame, then marked a line right below the back of the slidestop cutout. The mark is about .20" behind the frame's slidestop cutout. With both of my buffers and narrowed stock spring in the gun, my slide goes back to just short of the mark. I will replace the buffers or maybe use .30" thickness [3 washers] if I see any sign of the slide hitting the frame. Edited August 10, 2007 by eric nielsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishlad Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Changing frames is going to be a "competitive" modification, not for "work", so they should consider making the frames without the "rails"...ugly, edgy and no purpose IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Changing frames is going to be a "competitive" modification, not for "work", so they should consider making the frames without the "rails"...ugly, edgy and no purpose IMHO. What about the guys using the clamp-on type mounts for optics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Changing frames is going to be a "competitive" modification, not for "work", so they should consider making the frames without the "rails"...ugly, edgy and no purpose IMHO. the guys with a carver mount, myself included, would have issue with that. they could make two varients, one with and one without. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishlad Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I should have said "some" frames, not all. Choices are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 (edited) They are Picatinny rails, they take standard accessories and not Glock accessories [like Carver], of which I own none. I like the rails, they look cool and add more weight up front. In size and mass, the front of the CCF is about midway between a full-dustcover S_I and a short-DC gun. Very similar to the SV frames that Taran Butler shot for a long time. My humble opinion, clamp-on mounts are not the way to go for putting optics on a Glock. S&J Custom can put their mount on & make a much more accurate gun. Beven Grams can put a slide-mounted optic on & give you likely the most accurate semiauto you've ever shot. Just be careful about aftermarket barrels on the CCF locking block, they are both made oversize. PS: The rails look tactical [this will generate an automated alert in DP40's email] Edited August 10, 2007 by eric nielsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKJ Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 they should consider making the frames without the "rails" They should do two models, with rails and without rails. I would go for the no rail model because now its easy to drill and tap the frame for scopemount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 They are Picatinny rails, they take standard accessories and not Glock accessories [like Carver], of which I own none. I like the rails, they look cool and add more weight up front.In size and mass, the front of the CCF is about midway between a full-dustcover S_I and a short-DC gun. Very similar to the SV frames that Taran Butler shot for a long time. My humble opinion, clamp-on mounts are not the way to go for putting optics on a Glock. S&J Custom can put their mount on & make a much more accurate gun. Beven Grams can put a slide-mounted optic on & give you likely the most accurate semiauto you've ever shot. Just be careful about aftermarket barrels on the CCF locking block, they are both made oversize. PS: The rails look tactical [this will generate an automated alert in DP40's email] i just got my frame and ran into the barrel issue on my 35. i guess i should have done a little research before purchasing. works great on my 17 and 34 with KKM and stock barrels but the 35 KKM won't work. guess I will have to find a stock 35 barrel for limited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 You guys are horrible, Here I am about ready to order another Rusty Kidd open gun for shooting steel and y'all go and dangle this dang carrot in front of me. Here's what I have in mind: - CCF Aluminum Frame - Stock parts, except for getting one of them 1-3/4# trigger jobs which should feel even better in a rigid frame - KKM 9mm barrel - Caspian G17 slide - SJC Comp & Scope Mount - C-more - Polish up everything (removing the gray coating from the frame)....PIMP GUN BABY! - Send it to IonBond for one of their coatings Voila! Probably less than $1,500. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankymac Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 just got my frame and ran into the barrel issue on my 35. i guess i should have done a little research before purchasing. works great on my 17 and 34 with KKM and stock barrels but the 35 KKM won't work. guess I will have to find a stock 35 barrel for limited. The KKM barrel in your G35 was hand fit to the block, contact John @ SJC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 love the 35 by the way, extremly accurate. thanks! do you think a drop in KKM would work without any issue or just find a stock barrel for now until I can be without it for a while? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankymac Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 love the 35 by the way, extremly accurate. thanks! do you think a drop in KKM would work without any issue or just find a stock barrel for now until I can be without it for a while? I would pick up a LW or SL barrel vs a stock barrel for now and later have John fit the KKM to the new frame... Glad you like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Rich I would try a Lone Wolf slide instead: Already making 17s & 22s, other models are in the works. CCF is also going to be in the slide business soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Eric, I was thinkin' that since it's gonna be a steel gun that a G19 slide might be better. And before all the Glock guys start yellin' at me, I know it's not a 1911 and it doesn't work the same way. Just thinkin' is all and it would be cool. Figured I'd have to go with a G17 slide and then just start hoggin' out a ton of metal. I'm not totally sold on the idea. After all, comparing a Glock open gun to anything from Rusty Kidd really isn't fair. That said, I'm not ruling the idea out completely. It could be used (for me) for GSSF and steel. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Ok, just thinking some..... these look pretty cool, but as a 1911 guy I could never get past the "what do I do with my strong thumb" feeling, when shooting Glocks.... But, I've seen modded Glock plastic grips where a thumb shelf has been grafted on ala 1911 thumb safety-ish, for those that just like 'em that way. Can't remember if that was an Open gun or Limited I saw it on - would a thumb shelf like that be legal for Limited? Is grafting on a thumb shelf (in the case of a CCF raceframe, welding and old 1911 thumb safety shelf on) considered just a grip mod, or would some pinhead say that is a "recoil controlling device"? Wonder if a lightened slide G24 upper on one of these frames would handle like a 6" S_I gun? Please someone hide my credit card. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Pinhead here... Yep...can't do it on a non-open gun and yeah....I'll look for it after comments by some on these forums about disregarding the rules. I'll also fully explain to you the disadvantages you now face by being in Open with a Production, L-10 or Limited gun against full Open guns because you (not you specifically Sean) disregarded the rules, knowingly or otherwise. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Pinhead here...Yep...can't do it on a non-open gun and yeah....I'll look for it after comments by some on these forums about disregarding the rules. I'll also fully explain to you the disadvantages you now face by being in Open with a Production, L-10 or Limited gun against full Open guns because you (not you specifically Sean) disregarded the rules, knowingly or otherwise. Rich Thats what I figured. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Sean, I'm with you when I do break out the Glock on what to do. Basically, just gain a little more leverage on the grip with my weak hand and apply the thumb pressure I normally would to the left thumb. I've always been kinda iffy on this rule for Glocks (vs. 1911's) but we have to draw the line somewhere. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrooper Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Hey, whatever floats your boat go for it but: It's no longer a Glock it just looks like a Glock. Caspian slide and CCF frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockster35 Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 (edited) Ok, just thinking some..... these look pretty cool, but as a 1911 guy I could never get past the "what do I do with my strong thumb" feeling, when shooting Glocks....But, I've seen modded Glock plastic grips where a thumb shelf has been grafted on ala 1911 thumb safety-ish, for those that just like 'em that way. Can't remember if that was an Open gun or Limited I saw it on - would a thumb shelf like that be legal for Limited? Is grafting on a thumb shelf (in the case of a CCF raceframe, welding and old 1911 thumb safety shelf on) considered just a grip mod, or would some pinhead say that is a "recoil controlling device"? Wonder if a lightened slide G24 upper on one of these frames would handle like a 6" S_I gun? Please someone hide my credit card. Legal or not, when I textured the grip on my Glock 35, I added a thumb shelf for my stong side thumb. If I need to remove it later because it is a "recoil controlling device", I will re-heat the material and move it elsewhere. For now, it will stay! Edited August 14, 2007 by Glockster35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Gotta love ethics and integrity. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockster35 Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Has nothing to do with Ethics or Integrity, I don't currently compete in any clubs! When and if I do decide to come back to USPSA, I will remove the thumb rest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagz Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 (edited) How can I purchase one of these CCF raceframes? Edited August 15, 2007 by dagz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Send money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 They are in the new Brownell's catalog. Doesn't mean they are in stock, but worth a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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