Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Ccf Raceframe


rstandley

Recommended Posts

I talked with IDPA today. The frame is legal for ESP as long as you use a G34/35 length slide. Is not legal with a G17/22 slide. My concern is whether or not it will make weight with a G35 top end. 43 oz. without mag will not.

Eric are you certain about the weight? If so then a G34 top end might work. I have a certified scale that I will weigh the two top ends with.

Joe

You will need to take weight off of the frame. Best place is the rib for mounting the grip. A full length grip rib is not required, so this is a good spot to mill a slot in it.

Best regards,

Jim Taylor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 257
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Bwahahaha!

I picked up my stainless frame today, and once I got it home, the assembly began. The new frame pins are exceptionally tight, and require a bit of force getting them in. When I installed the trigger housing pin, I noticed a tiny bit if it shaving off from the frame. This gun will be an utter pita to disassemble at a match.

Once together, I placed my G17 upper on first. I had to push the ejector over a tad to get the slide to go on...I would imagine this to be a non issue with the straighter 40 cal ejector. I had the same issue with my G34 slide.

I am a skeptic, but I would be lying if I didn't say "Instant trigger job". Not only does the trigger seem tighter, and with less distortion, but the frame to slide fit is much tighter as well. I am impressed with the frame to say the least.

The new weight feels very significant. Switching from the 17 to 34 slide, the gun becomes noticeably front heavy, more so than using a stock frame. The balance ratio feels equal using the G17 upper comparing it to a stock lower.

The lack of finger grooves is not noticeable. The grenade-like front strap is very grippy, but after installing the TruGrip, the overall grip is greatly enhanced.

I would put some rounds through this beast today, but I am still waiting for my delinquent bullet order to come in. Below are some pics that I took of the frame and my slides. Please feel free to ask me any questions, and if I can, I will be morethan happy to give you an answer!

DSCN1254.jpg

DSCN1255.jpg

DSCN1256.jpg

DSCN1257.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks like the old style locking block. Is it safe to assume the metal frame does away with any slide peening issues? Wonder why they did not use the new style locking block?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks like the old style locking block. Is it safe to assume the metal frame does away with any slide peening issues? Wonder why they did not use the new style locking block?

The locking block is a non-removable part of the frame. And now that you mention it, it does look alot like the old 2-pin locking block.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CCF says that a metal guide rod will beat up the channel were the takedown lever & spring are. Also they say that the balance is already similar to a plastic frame with a metal rod, which seems true enough. I think plastic in back, threaded to tungsten in front would be more racy and not beat up the frame.

The G17 & G22 are legal in IDPA because the "full length dust cover" is not metal on the original Glock. It is full length & metal with the CCF. Suppose they can make one 1/4" shorter and be legal but that's a guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CCF says that a metal guide rod will beat up the channel were the takedown lever & spring are. Also they say that the balance is already similar to a plastic frame with a metal rod, which seems true enough. I think plastic in back, threaded to tungsten in front would be more racy and not beat up the frame.

The G17 & G22 are legal in IDPA because the "full length dust cover" is not metal on the original Glock. It is full length & metal with the CCF. Suppose they can make one 1/4" shorter and be legal but that's a guess.

Aluminum frame with 4 in slides is OK as material is not "stainless steel" or "carbon steel."

Best regards,

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a chance to run a few rounds through my G34 upper and the CCF frame, and am very impressed. I would almost shoot Limited minor with this setup this weekend at Area 8, but until it has 1000 + rounds through it, it stays home. The extra weight definitely bites into the recoil...it's more of an upward movement as opposed to a rearward IMHO.

One thing to note...I believe that you need a heavier recoil spring to run with this frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any insight as to why you think that PB ? :)

Chris

I don't know about PB, but I put the stock spring in mine because on controlled pairs, second shot was higher than first (most of the time). I think this is a good thing.

Best regards,

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shot mine today. Started with the old G35 frame with 5-oz magwell. Then shot 2 rounds thru the CCF & started laughing - of course. It's twice as heavy, it's supposed to kick half as much.

It feels different in the hand, good chance i'm gonna remove the cast-in checkering and remove a lot of the triggerguard where it hits the middle finger [aka Glock Knuckle] and maybe glue a wood grip onto the right side like my [former] Open Glock.

Anyway with the different feel & the fact that I stopped using the steel rod & wolff spring - beats up the slide buffer way too fast - it's almost like by "feel" that i prefer the plastic frame & the way it's easy on your hands & it flexes to absorb recoil. In a perfect, controlled Bill Drill stance, it's hard to tell the difference between the 2 guns.

Then I started shooting Barricade. Moving 90deg sideways to the target. Crouching. Standing on one foot. One-handed. Forget feel - the timer don't lie.

Just a week ago I shot an SV SightTracker, week before that I shot a short-dust-cover STI. The CCF's kick & recovery is in between those two guns, closer to the SV.

Needs a mag-well, not really competitive in LTD until it gets one. My $.02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be more clear [answer to a PM] the CCF/Glock35 combo is MUCH more controllable than a plastic-frame/brass-magwell G35.

15-yard split times for awkward stances are shorter by at least .15s every time [for me].

The only time plastic & steel are even comparable is in a VERY aggressive, perfect stance. The kind of stance that you rarely get to use in a field course.

The impulse in your hand & the kick to your body & the amount of flip are all comparable to the STI & SV guns I mentioned. I would never say that about a plastic Glock.

For how much it kicks me back in my stance [6" tall & skinny] i'd rate my plastic/brass G35 at 10 - the most. A 22LR is a 1. My STI Open gun is a 4. The CCF Glock is about a 5 or 6.

PS - Ice magwell is on the way; another shooter got his JP well on with a very solid press fit, just 1mm of metal off either side of the frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be more clear [answer to a PM] the CCF/Glock35 combo is MUCH more controllable than a plastic-frame/brass-magwell G35.

15-yard split times for awkward stances are shorter by at least .15s every time [for me].

The only time plastic & steel are even comparable is in a VERY aggressive, perfect stance. The kind of stance that you rarely get to use in a field course.

The impulse in your hand & the kick to your body & the amount of flip are all comparable to the STI & SV guns I mentioned. I would never say that about a plastic Glock.

For how much it kicks me back in my stance [6" tall & skinny] i'd rate my plastic/brass G35 at 10 - the most. A 22LR is a 1. My STI Open gun is a 4. The CCF Glock is about a 5 or 6.

PS - Ice magwell is on the way; another shooter got his JP well on with a very solid press fit, just 1mm of metal off either side of the frame.

Im still trying to figure out how much you like the frame? You still sound unsure too me at least. Do you like it over the plastic frame? If so how much.

Thanks Robert.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like it a whole lot better than plastic.

I fixed the "feel" complaint by covering the center of the front strap with a narrow [1/4"] vertical row of tape, then a wide row of tape that covers the whole front. Now it points the way I want it to, it doesn't force itself into one position like when it was all square-shaped.

If you've ever used a shot-timer you'd probably be pretty happy taking more than .10 off of every split you shoot. Getting knocked around similar to a very soft Open gun [instead of getting kicked twice as hard] is also something most shooters would call a good thing.

I used to tell new shooters that an Edge was no advantage over a Glock inside of 10 yards. With a CCF & a sub-2lb trigger, that's now true out to about 20 yards.

These are all things that I like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope to have mine assembled next week. It is a little wider than a Glock frame - would not fit in my kydex holster. I will most likely "bevel" the leading rows of checkering on each side a little. Looks to be plenty of material there. I think the gun will make ESP weight with a G34 upper. Will weigh when assembled. There is no way it will make weight with a G35 upper without removing metal. Guess I will lighten the insert rib some.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe

I took about 3/4" out of the insert rib today, along with removing the far left side checkering and a lot of the "glock knuckle" area - and there was NO measurable difference in weight. See photos in following post.

G35 is still at 43oz w/no mag, just under 46oz with empty 10-rounder, plastic guide rod. I think the best way to take a several ounces out of the gun is to drill big holes in the side of the grip. Better [for me] than chopping the DC & exposing the recoil spring, which looks ugly.

I don't shoot IDPA so i will leave most or all of the weight on there.

Edited by eric nielsen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...