Irishlad

I'd go to the Franchi USA website and contact them. They should be able to help you. I believe they are owned by Beretta now...not that really helps you...just FYI.

O/U's would be the most reliable and the safest IMHO. You can tell at a distance if it can 'fire or not'. Easy to load, manipulate, etc. But, cost is very high compared to the auto's. Beretta autos are a good choice, but as mentioned I would still look at Remington 1100's. Low-recoil, good shooting guns that will require more "care" than the Beretta...however. Auto's for trap...no less than 28"...no more than 30" for new shooters IMO. I'd use 1 oz. loads, 1200 FPS max for new shooters. Recoil is distracting at first. Good luck.

I would email or call Alliant and ask them about a load. Mention the hull and wad you wish to use also. Generally, I have found the powder companies pretty good in responding. Good luck.

It does give you a more "panoramic" view with the upright head/eyes. In ATA trap with a high "hold", well over the trap house, you can see the bird better coming from underneath. Common in Olympic Double Trap where you "intercept the first target...not much swing so to speak. Disadvantage, IMHO, is you feel more "removed" from the barrel/line of sight. But, to each their own !!! Browning had a high rib sporting gun quite a while ago, discontinued it....now high ribs are back...for a while anyway.

As mentioned, a pouch or vest will be needed to hold the shells. Baseball cap is a good idea. If you are shooting an O/U, and keeping your empty hulls the vest is easier, and distributes the weight of a box of shells better than a belt and pouch...but no big deal. Small side note: If you are using ear "muffs" for your son; check to see that when he mounts the gun, the stock doesn't hit or break the "seal" of the muff. That would defeat the purpose of ear protection. Other than that, have fun.

I've had it done to one shotgun, excellent work and no change in the weight of the barrel...they are the "gold standard" IMHO.

At $1500 or less...IMHO: Autoloaders- Beretta 390/391 series(not familiar with the new ones) with chokes tubes. Probably 30" bbls Remington 1100- many options- same as above. O/U- Browning 325/425 series sporting clays models...probably 30" barrels, but maybe 32". The "American" versions have porting, over-bored barrels which are heavier compared to the 'European' models which are hard to find. Beretta 680 series-686 more than likely, maybe a 682 series used. 30" or 32" barrels. Older 682's are much heavier than the newer ones....hence the 30 or 32 barrels. Those options(sporting/skeet) will handle most of the sports very well. Trap "okay". But, all the above are well known, proven, parts, service and options available and have "re-sale" value. At that price-point, I'd avoid other discontinued or 'off-brands'...

New Beretta coming in 2013....Beretta 692. Looks like a wider/heavier receiver and "internal" barrel changes. Similiar to the DT-11 changover from the DT-10. Just FYI if you are looking.

Nice shooting...a "natural"...sweet.

I've shot the small gauge Caesar. They appear to be well made, very tight. Seems like a lot of gun for the money. Warranty is good. No experience with reliability and durablity.

That's the way to do it IMO. Overall, you will find that all the popular action "types" like Browning, Beretta 680 series, Perazzi and kriegoff have won many matches and been around a long time. Meaning, they are reliable and durable enough, have enough variations in balance, weights, barrel lengths, etc, used succesfully by shooters who vary in style and physical size. Having instruction and stock fitting by a good person/persons will be the most important and I would include that 'cost', and work your back to whatever gun fits in your budget. Meaning, if you had $3,000-$5,000 total to spend, the cost of stock fitting and lessons(included) will bring you back to the Browning and Beretta 680 series more than likely. Have $5,000- $8,000- Fitting, lessons and you are probably back to a new Beretta 682, used DT-10, Perazzi/Kreighoff. $10,000+....your choice.. You could do it for $2,500 or less with an auto...you might have moleskin, duct tape on the stock...but scores 'tell the story'..........I like ugly guns too. If I could step back in time....stock fitting and lessons....save a lot of money, time and "anguish".

In short, that sounds reasonable and it gives you an idea of what you might want. That would still be considered a 'flatter' shooting stock for many shooters. Are you shooting skeet, trap or sporting...hunting? Trap stocks might be 1 3/8" at the comb and then parallel or a little drop at the heel. Monte Carlo would have more drop at heal of course. "Short necks" like mine , generally don't require Monte Carlos...but whatever works!! If you had a choice, always go with a stock that's higher...easier to take away 'wood', than add it. Or adjustable comb is easy if it comes with it. Try to apply the same cheek pressure when trying stocks as you do shooting...if you can. Stock fitting is 'voodoo', but you can get the length and height of the stock correct with a little effort...like you are doing now. Good luck

As mentioned, I would release the spring tension if your shotgun uses 'Leaf springs'. Coil springs are pretty tough and I doubt you need to. If you decide to 'snap' the FP's, then it is VERY wise to use snap caps.

Doing good... 27 yard shooting is not easy. "Thinking" is not allowed while actually 'shooting' the target, particulary trying to calculate leads. I would stay with the same load for both 16-27 yard. Helps "brain memory" of target breaking sight "pictures", and your body will thank you for not increasing "recoil". 27 yards is tough shooting. Moving back a couple of yards each time, when comfortable/confident, is easier...in steps so to speak! It takes a while to get to the 27 line...so have fun.

Always "focus" on the first target of the doubles. "Focus" means shoot it like a single target. Easy to say, but in the beginning your "mind" will fool you into thinking about the second target while you shoot the first. Which means you will "jump" the first target, probably stop, miss it and rush to find the second target. That's the Evil mind. In reality, you can swing smoothly much "quicker" than the speed of the target. Which means you don't have to rush the first target, or most any target. If you take too much time, it makes breaking the targets more difficult. For example, Swinging the gun for 2 seconds, without firing is a very, very long time. If you are on station 2, I would practice many High house single targets and your 'goal' is to break them by center stake. After you do that, shoot some doubles. You will have plenty of time to swing back and break the low. The practice part is hitting the high with the same movement and timing as a single, when you 'know' there is another target. Once you don't think about it...it's as "easy as pie"....really. That's the good mind. Have fun.

On the SDB: I'd like to be able to buy dies for stations 3 and 4 similiar to Dillon's regular dies; where you remove a 'clip' and can remove the dies/insert and clean them...without having to remove the 'top-end'. The ball handle is not comfortable for me. The "Mec" style, longer cylinder shape, is better IMHO. Again, I'd buy it...doesn't have to be 'free'. Adjusting the bell on the casing is difficult without removing the top end. A SDB style reloader where the priming is done on the same "stroke" as the other functions...is an "automatic" buy for me...

Browning has a "new" O/U coming out next year I read, so if you want a Browning and something different! The new "725" has mechanical triggers and a 'lower' receiver...less height. Appears to be similiar to the standard brownings, but "updated"...if you will! Just FYI if you are still looking!!

If you are only missing 1 or 2 targets per round...you are "there"...nice. Not knowing what style of 'swing' you use, I might suggest on low 4 and 5 that you never let the bird get past your barrels. You might find that easier and more consistent, particularly if you are right-handed. Other "tips" that might, or might not, be helpful. Assuming you are right handed: Your "break point" is the middle stake. That doesn't mean you can't or won't break targets past that, but as you practice more, you'll find that break point "natural". Much beyond center stake hits means you are 'riding" the target, picked it up "late" or just "enjoying a nice sunny day". All "fun", but will lead to more misses and make doubles tougher. So, you might position your feet past center stake which gives you a bit more "swing through". No "absolutes" on foot work, but easy to test. Just position yourself on the station and see if you can swing through comfortably on the targets without running out of body swing well beyond the intended break point. If that makes sense? The "height" of the barrels is dictated by the the height of the target. Meaning, barrels should be at or below the bird height so when when you start to move the barrels don't end up over the bird, which means you "lost" the visual. Shoot low 8 like you shoot high. By the time you break it, it's almost the same height. This is one station, IMHO, where there is almost no 'technique' needed except follow through. Meaning, you will position your barrel 'so far' away from the house, look for the "flash" of the target between the house and barrel, move and shoot. Stock doesn't have to be on the face much, if at all, jerk the trigger, bad foot position, whatever. Move on the flash...turn, shoot, follow through...it's over. If you miss, try moving the barrel out more or in, seeing the target better..practice...simple station. Have fun.

Many people feel they "balance" well for a target gun, soft shooting and easy availability of barrels, stocks, parts, etc. Available in all four gauges. Looks nice: polished blued steel, wood stocks...like the "old days"! For clay targets, lighter loads, it's still a good choice IMO. "Light hunting" is fine too. Pick up a 28 gauge 1100 sometime....sweet. For everything else, the 1100 is behind the "curve"...no question.

Good advise above. I'd really try hard to shoot the different sports with borrowed guns, see what you like the best...skeet, trap, sporting...all? Then, consider the 'tool/gun' after the shoot the sports. At $1500, you are "in" the high quality auto range with different confiqurations.$1500 is in the used O/U range. Some very good choices for that money, but not many IMO and you have to find them. Skeet is, by far, the most forgiving of different gun styles IMO. Meaning, anywhere from a 26" to a 32" barrel can work and with different stock styles. Sporting a bit less so and trap is the least forgiving. Meaning you will shoot higher scores with a "higher" trap stock and longer barrels. But, buying guns is fun. So, if you "had" to buy tomorrow I'd go with previously mentioned Beretta sporting auto. Have fun.

SDB Experience: 25 years + Avg loading rate: 400-450 rounds per hour...with One shot lube. Cycle rate is about 650 per hour, but bad things happen at that rate. The "machine" can't handle it.

Good posts. I'm fairly "calm", but the above will really anger me as I've done "that", improper moves/technique, several times even in the same round, same "bird" with the same result...missed target(s) and mental explosion. I have to "step back" and "think", practice it the right way no matter what the initial result.

I'd start on the skeet field first, with "some of the guys", doing some station practice and just get the feel of swinging through the targets...and having fun. No doubt you'll get more "help" than you want or can absorb the first time around. So, I'll only suggest you keep moving after you pull the trigger and keep you eyes on the "bird", not the gun. In the beginning, it's more important that you "feel" and look "good" , than actually hitting the targets...that will come easy enough when you are relaxed and "smooth".

One shot case lube....don't load on a SDB without it.

I'd lean towards the 1100 and a 'Kick-eez' pad myself. But, there are other good pads...some are too hard, some too soft..."3 beers story". When they shorten the stock, have them adjust the pitch at the same time, so it fits with full pad contact in the shoulder pocket. IMO, that makes as much difference as a good recoil pad. Meaning, the recoil is not being generated on 1/2 of the surface area of the recoil pad, or the toe is digging into the body, etc.