If you shoot Iron sights with a fiber optic what's your sight picture / hold

[nearsightedgunner]

If you bench rest your firearm at the same height as the 1st target at 25 yds and place a second target behind it of the same height at 50-65 yds you will see the drop that I mentioned before. The drop starts at 25 yds since its my established POI. It could travel farther hitting the same POI but my concern is the 25 yd line before the bullet starts its sloping journey, downward that is. Since its a paper target, I do not believe deflection is an issue here specially when the bullet choice is truncated cone 124 gr at 1200 fps. In like manner, metallic silhouette shooters dial in their rear sight for 100 yd POI, mark their rear sight for 200 yd POI dial and so on. The farther the distance the higher the elevation becomes and the slope the bullet has to travel on it downward travel. All I’m saying is bullets travel flat coming out of the muzzle up to a certain point till gravity starts doing its job. 

[Blackstone45]

3 hours ago, nearsightedgunner said:

If you bench rest your firearm at the same height as the 1st target at 25 yds and place a second target behind it of the same height at 50-65 yds you will see the drop that I mentioned before. The drop starts at 25 yds since its my established POI. It could travel farther hitting the same POI but my concern is the 25 yd line before the bullet starts its sloping journey, downward that is. Since its a paper target, I do not believe deflection is an issue here specially when the bullet choice is truncated cone 124 gr at 1200 fps. In like manner, metallic silhouette shooters dial in their rear sight for 100 yd POI, mark their rear sight for 200 yd POI dial and so on. The farther the distance the higher the elevation becomes and the slope the bullet has to travel on it downward travel. All I’m saying is bullets travel flat coming out of the muzzle up to a certain point till gravity starts doing its job. 

And if you placed a second target at 30yds, you will see that the bullet impacts higher.

 

You say that you bench rest your firearm at the same height as the target. So is the barrel in line with the bullseye? Or the sights? It can't be both. It must be the sights that are aligned with the bullseye. And because the barrel is below the sights, then the barrel must oriented up in order for the bullet to hit the bullseye. By punching in some numbers into a ballistic calculator, you can see that the first time the bullet intersects the 25 yard point, it is still rising. It will continue to rise, peaking at around 35 yards before dropping quite rapidly. So yes, at 50 yards the bullet will have dropped.

[Runswithwood1]

2 for me, it just seems more natural, if its within 3-5 yards I just look totally over the rear sight and hope for the best

[rifleman777]

On 11/9/2022 at 10:30 AM, Racinready300ex said:

If it's a tough shot I'm doing 2. But for most things it's 3 but with the closer it is the less I care about the rear sight at all. 

This…….

[rennD]

3

[broadside72]

You are supposed to aim?

I zero with 2 but I'd like to think I shoot with something between 2 and 3 but honestly at speed I am looking over my sights and point/index shooting. I get on the irons for harder/distance shots only come to find out. 

[GunBugBit]

I zero at 15 yards with sight picture 2 but at most targets 10 yards and closer I use sight picture 3, and the bullets land where I expect.

[obsessiveshooter]

3 allows me to be more target focused and use it like a red dot.  Which allows for speed.  Accuracy is just as good as if I had my sights set up for #2.  

[boatdoc173]

it depends on the gun being used.

 

Sigs and Czs(and other combat style  guns) seem to shoot best  using  the #2 sight picture

 

 bullseye  guns tend to use the  #1  sight picture

Edited August 13, 2023 by boatdoc173

[shred]

#1 only works at a fixed, known distance and known-size target.  People used to call the shop and want sights to use a "6 o-clock hold" and the response was "how big is your clock and how far away?"

 

[flyinverted]

2 for me and 3 for the really close targets if I even get a sight picture.

[Muricanwerewolf]

This is why I like the TTI fiber sights, 2 and 3 are the same thing.

[80seriesaddict]

2 for accuracy 3 for speed.

[NoahBeretta]

2 for zero and accuracy, 3 for hosing. 

[barry]

The bullet starts dropping the instant it leaves the barrel. The fact that the sights are above the barrel makes it appear to rise.

[TheBlackSeven]

2 works

[JonasAberg]

I zero at 25m, setting the sight so I hold a tad below center on a metal plate.

If I set it right on, the sight pretty much covers the whole plate at that distance and beyond. It's a lot easier if you actually see what you're shooting at. Closer than 25, at ipsc targets, it doesn't make much of a difference anyway.

[IVC]

On 1/18/2024 at 12:06 PM, barry said:

The bullet starts dropping the instant it leaves the barrel. The fact that the sights are above the barrel makes it appear to rise.

It doesn't, the barrel points "up" so the bullet doesn't start dropping until it reaches its apex. 

 

The vertical component of velocity starts decreasing (velocity changes in the direction of gravity pull, so absolute value decreases), but until this velocity is zero the bullet raises. 

[IVC]

Sighting in - at 25 yards, sight picture "2." It gives me the point blank range out to any distance that I'll shoot in competition. 

[Rickh238]

Most voters voted #2 but I use #1 for all guns and all sights, setting the sight to put my shot just above the front blade or crosshair. As a former target shooter I find "balancing the ball" on the front sight much easier and more accurate than trying to estimate the center of the bull. After sighting the gun in this way I effectively have #2 perfectly set.

Try it and you will find it much easier and much more accurate.

[IVC]

1 hour ago, Rickh238 said:

Most voters voted #2 but I use #1 for all guns and all sights, setting the sight to put my shot just above the front blade or crosshair. As a former target shooter I find "balancing the ball" on the front sight much easier and more accurate than trying to estimate the center of the bull. After sighting the gun in this way I effectively have #2 perfectly set.

Try it and you will find it much easier and much more accurate.

Being target shooter explains your preference for "balancing the ball" (#1 sight picture), but you have to remember that it only works when the "ball" is fixed angular size. Have a target of different size, or at different distance, and now you have to estimate how much to hold under. 

 

Yes, #1 is superior for target shooting at *fixed* distances and *fixed* target shapes (well-defined size of the inner circles) precisely because it's more accurate to have the ball touch the top of the sight (and sometimes even to have a sliver of white between the ball and the sight) than to determine the center of the ball, but the moment you get into action shooting at various distances, #1 becomes highly suboptimal and much worse than #2.