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Cleaner burning powder


Speedwagon

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I'm new to revolvers and ICORE. I have a S&W 929 I'm using to shoot in ICORE matches. I loaded some ammo, 147 grain Berrys with Titegroup powder. I have a lot of Titegroup and use it in my semi autos for IDPA and USPSA so just continued using it for my 929 loads for ICORE. I cleaned my 929 this morning, it didn't have more than 200 rounds through it and it was super dirty with carbon buildup. I have some Shooters World Clean Shot I can try but was wondering what others use or if anyone has some insight on what I can do to keep this gun from getting so dirty. 

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Sport Pistol is a fairly clean powder. I've used it for mild load for plates in 38 Spl. and in 10mm for ICORE, in both cases there is a little soot on the cases, but the barrel is clean. If you want a really clean powder use Hodgdon Clays. Hodgdon doesn't list it for use with 9mm and 147 gr. bullets, it is a touchy powder and a little goes a long way. Alliant Clay Dot is reported to be very similar to the point that identical components give the same velocity, but I have no idea about pressure. Alliant does not provide pistol data for Clay Dot, so, if you want, experiment with that carfully, .01 gr. more with these powders makes a difference

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23 minutes ago, ysrracer said:

In a revolver? Mine slows down after 700 rounds with titegroup. It's filthy.

Yes. 929s with plated and coated loads. Even after I clean a gun it gets 300-600 rounds the practice before a match to get it dirty and make sure it’s running properly. 

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17 minutes ago, Fishbreath said:

 

What do you run for chamber throats/bullet sizes?

.356 plated and .358 coated. I’ve never touched a factory cylinder other than a chamfer. Most 929 barrels come off, get set in 1 turn and gap and cone recut. 

Edited by MWP
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This is interesting. I was thinking about using a 357 bullet with a cantilure and roll crimping. 

3 hours ago, RangerMcFadden said:

Keep in mind that your bullets might be too small. Despite the “9mm” on the barrel many of us find better success with 357 or 358 projectiles.

 

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I had a .356 barrel made for my open revolver and I shoot .358 coated, .357 plated and jacketed with no problem. All will stay in the X zone at 50yds on ICORE targets. S&W 627

Edited by revoman
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13 minutes ago, Ed F said:

Most 929 barrels come off, get set in 1 turn and gap and cone recut.

 

What is being gained by the extra turn?  And what is the ballpark cost of having that done?

 

Ed

Factory cones are usually cut too deep or shallow. And it’s not uncommon for the gap to also be cut at an angle to the cylinder. It’s also common for the factory to turn the barrel on way too tight.
 

Turning it back gives you a chance to start fresh. It goes hand in hand with recutting the crown and making sure the frame is close to straight. I’m not sure the cost, its a simple job to do if you have a friend with a lathe and spend the money for a frame wrench. 
 

It’s not all 929s. Of the 6 I have left with factory barrels, I only had to do it to 4 of them. 
 

I have one gun that the cylinder to barrel angle is completely unfixable. Poor thing lives a hard life of dryfire. 

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