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Everything posted by radny97

  1. There’s no need to lube straight wall pistol cases. That clumpy powder could be a problem, at a minimum an inconsistent burn rate giving inconsistent velocities. My recommendation is that you don’t live your 9mm cases any more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Given that you plunk tested every round I’m going to change my opinion and go with double charge. I don’t think the press was the culprit. I think it was the process of removing every round and you somehow accidentally double charged. I did the same thing when i first started reloading, trying to triple check everything. In my first 100 rounds i ended up double charging a 38 special case with 231. Thankfully it was a midrange powder charge and i was shooting out of a Ruger 357 mag. The double charge was still in excess of 357 mag data, but not by much. No harm to the gun or me. Taught me a lesson that you’re often safer to trust your press than you are to remove stuff. I now use a small flashlight to check the powder drop every 100 rounds or so. I’ve never had another double charge tens of thousands of rounds later. I use the Lee auto disk on a couple of different Lee presses. The problem wasn’t your press in my opinion. Glad you’re unhurt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. It’s not the press. I use the auto breech lock pro for all my 9mm. Tens of thousands of rounds with no issues. Appears to be an out of battery discharge. OOBs are usually a combination of a gun issue allowing a firing pin to drop before the slide is fully in battery, and a reloading issue where your ammo didn’t go into battery easily. Try plunk testing each round. Sorry about your gun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I noticed the same thing with my new 4 pound jug. My older sport pistol does not have the bronze flakes. Seems to shoot just fine though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Sport pistol for 38 short colt and pretty much everything else Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I’m through about 10,000 Fiocchi primers. I have one revolver that won’t ignite them reliably. Everything else they do great. I’d agree they are about as soft as Winchester. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Not always true. HS-6 is clean if run near the top of published data BUT you MUST use magnum pistol primers. Regular primers will make it run dirty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I’m getting 1250 fps out of a published load of HS-6 using 124 grain gold dots. That’s from a full size gun. Brass shows no pressure signs. I’d start with HS-6. Could also try 3N37. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I shoot ICORE in 38 short Colt using sport pistol. My load is 3.8 grains under a 135 gr bayou bullet. Yields 131 pf at 4500 feet of elevation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I’d be interested. I think it could draw in some extra shooters. Would be fun too if you could shoot something that doesn’t normally see competition, like a 44 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. American Select Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. ^^^^ this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Sounds to me like you may have leading built up in front of the lands that is causing the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Five shots from each powder load usually won’t be enough to determine a statistically significant difference in accuracy. Moreover, pistols aren’t like rifles where the powder can strongly effect accuracy. Barrel harmonics is *mostly* not a thing in recoil operated handguns where the barrel is temporarily locked to the slide until partway through the recoil cycle. The type of powder used has an effect on accuracy, to be sure. But the amount of powder charge has much less of an effect. And powder itself, both type and charge amount, has a much smaller effect on accuracy than the projectile. When I’m developing an accuracy load for a handgun, i first see what projectile the gun likes, and i try several. Then i tinker with powder types and finally i tinker with the load of the particular powder to make sure it is clearing power factor. Honestly, your ability to shoot accurately in a run and gun competition is so much more important than any other factor, that you should check and make sure that your chosen projectile is shooting reasonably accurately, then ensure you are making power factor and that your recoil impulse is not too strong and at that point you’re good to go for a long time. Once you get to the point that you’re potentially busting into the top or second tier of shooters in your area, you can then start taking a closer look at the accuracy of your particular load, because only at that point will it start making a noticeable difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I held and dry fired the stainless one capable of multiple caliber changes at the 2017 Shot Show. I believe i also held and dry fired this one or one very close to it (it was blued and not capable of swapping calibers). Beautiful guns. Very well built. Triggers were excellent but not as good as my 627pc with the master action job from TK Custom. Not worth the money they were asking, but still very nice. The Korth Mongoose i dry fired in a booth just around the corner from the Janz booth had a surprisingly gritty and heavy trigger. Not as good as a new production N frame. But maybe it was just the rough floor model. To me these guns are like Ferraris. Cool and beautiful but impractical and mostly made to be parked in a garage and not used, or to be the bling of the uber-wealthy. Not really interested in either of those purposes. I buy guns to shoot them. However, if Janz were to make something priced under $2000, i would give it some serious attention. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Lee makes 38 short Colt dies so you can use the case activated powder through die on a progressive press. 9mm taper crimp die works for your final stage. I found a firm crimp allowed me to get more accurate groups and better SD. Start with low end 9mm load data. And work up. Most powders that work well in minor power factor 9mm will work well for 38 short Colt in a 357 mag gun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Bayou’s are between 16 and 18 BHN Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I pocket carry a 442. Small changes in weight and size make a big difference in pocket carry. I think you’ll be surprised how much easier a 642 will be to carry. You can buy a spring kit on eBay for about $15 and within 20 minutes you’ll have a trigger that will feel much much better. Mine has never had light strikes even after swapping out the springs. The ability to carry +p is a pretty big deal in a snubby 38. As to the number of rounds you should know one thing and then ask yourself one question. First, the average self defense shooting (including cops) requires 1.7 rounds. Since you’re already carrying a snubby, you’ve already joined the camp that recognizes that capacity is not the most important factor in a good carry gun. Second, ask yourself “what scenarios are there where a sixth round would resolve the circumstance and a seventh round would not be required?” Obviously very few. Most scenarios with a larger number of rounds is going to require a reload, whether you have a five or six round gun in the pocket. In terms of holsters, I’ve become partial to the Boraii pocket holster. Covers the trigger and holds it upright in the pocket but is very fast to draw and no bulk at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I’ve used it with great results. Primer pockets are the right size. Flash holes are uniform. Presently at about 10 reloads on a batch of 1000 with no noticeable wear. 38 special brass Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. The notion that primers can’t partially ignite is a myth. A light primer strike CAN cause partial ignition of a primer. To test this you can take a S&W revolver that has a leaf spring which can be adjusted by a tension screw near the bottom of the grip and loosen the screw by an eighth of a turn, shoot six rounds, another eighth of a turn, six more rounds, etc., until you start getting light strikes. When you reach the margin where you barely start getting light strikes, you will find that about one in ten primers will partially ignite, thereby causing the exact problem you have described. Melted but not ignited powder, squibs with powder, etc. I have done this with Winchester primers and it is real. Also, I have found S&B primers to be about the hardest brand out there in SPP. I would guess that you happened upon that narrow little spot where primers occasionally only partially ignite. The other possible explanation is that you wet tumble and your brass wasn’t fully dry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. That’s fantastic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I love that bullet. I run it too, and it’s amazingly accurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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