CtYankee

I shot a Korth a couple of years ago: well fit, smooth action. My fiddled with Ruger GPs have lighter triggers, heck my fiddled with Taurus 608 has a lighter trigger. However, if lighter trigger springs are available, I expect that the Korth wouldn't require as much shimming and polishing as my Rugers did.

The first time I came across this post I had nothing to add, but I bought a King Cobra 22 last week, so maybe I do have something to add. Not having had a Colt before, I was looking for where the side plate was, the fit was so tight I had trouble finding it. The tigger pull is lighter than on my other .22 revolvers (Ruger and Taurus). As DS-10-Speed mentioned the trigger pull does stack just after lockup. When checking pull with my gauge it looked like trigger pull was going to be just under 8lbs, but then when the cylinder locked up it got harder (trigger pull gauge only goes to 8lbs: I have no idea if that is a charateristic of Colts > spring. At 25 yds the gun first shot inconsistant, but I was shooting into the sun and the shiny stainless was hard to see properly. After a few rounds the gun shot better, or maybe the sun moved enough. I finally got it sighted in and ran CCI, Aquila and Federal AutoMatch through without any misfires. I finished up shooting at 50' DA rapid fire I was able to put 19/20 rds on a 6" target. So far I'm happy. Oh yeah, GP100 Speed Beez loaders work, but they are a little bit sticky. I'll have to try Revolver Supply.

It's not that moonclips don't play nice with reloaded ammo, it's that some moonclips only play nice with specific brass. My 10mm/40S&W brass has to be Fed or Starline brass, my 9mm moonclips seem to digest whatever range leavings I stick in them. I don't know if that is true for all brass, but so far everything has gone in the clips, gone in the gun and gone bang. Maybe 9mm is more forgiving.

It depends on what you are shooting. Red Dot at large targets, transition bifocals work just fine: iron sights, not so much. You can always tell an old person shooting through bifocals: gun out straight, head held back to engage the lower portion of the bifocals. That position makes it hard to deal with recoil. I find that I like to have my dominant eye with a lense focused on my sights and transitional bifocal on my other eye. But of course, this is highly personal.

The headspace on a revolver (with the cylinder held all the way forward) should be between .008"-.012", and the firing pin protrusion .025". When a round fires the primer backs out of the pocket all the way to the recoil shield and then the case comes back and reseats it. To put this in context of a "light" strike, when a round goes off, the dent the firing pin makes in the primer is the full length of it's protusion -.025"; when the primer doesn't go off the firing pin dent is .017" - .013". So the dent in your misfire looks just fine to me. Blame the ammo not the gun.

I use Ranch moonclips in my GP100 10mm and they work fine for Starline and Federal brass - not so well for foreign brass. The brass is held tight with just enough rattle for easy loading.

No. I got them by mistake and rather than return them I played around with them. Penn Bullets came to coating late, and then the owner died. My last order was all plated except for 45/70 and the Thunderheads.

A year ago I acquired 250 240gr. Thunderheads from Penn Bullets (but Bob Palermo died in Nov.). I neither had, nor could get AA#9 at he time, but was given a load for Blue Dot. With Penn Bullets a little over 900fps give you leading, under that seems OK.

I have a GP100 in .357 Mag that I use for ICORE Classic and a Match Champion 10mm that I use for L6. I'm often the only Ruger shooter at the matches. Since I'm in New England, Paul Pluff occasionally shows up and he shoots a GP100.

With rimless cases, that headspace off the case mouth, headspace is variable. SAAMI specifies maximum case length, and then reloading manuals publish trim to lengths that are .010" less than that, and I have measured once fired and resized cases that were at least .013" less than maximum length. I have heard, but not measured, that semi-autos have longer firing pins and heavier hammer/striker springs, perhaps to make up for this potential difference, although many semi-autos actually headspace off the extractor (that's not the intended design). Revolver headspacing is, ideally .010" ±.002" some are more than that and the incidence of misfires increases after .015" (my experience). Add to this the little bit of give that you might get in a moonclips and it is easy to see why rimless cartridges in revolvers are fussy about primers and why a misfired cartridge in a revolver will ignite in a semiauto. I think that pskys2 has a good plan. Some 929 competition shooters I know install longer firing pin as general practice rather than to fix a problem. On my Ruger GP100s I have removed .020" from the top step of the hammer to give a positive strike to the firing pin. Thicker moonclips can help, but they don't always fit.

Two things I noticed about your misfired primers: They don't look like light strikes (could be the lighting of your photo), they don't appear to be Federal Primers. You trigger stops shouldn't be a probelem because: 1) If your forward motion isn't enough, your trigger won't reset, and; if your reward motion is too little, your hammer won't release. As was mentioned by a couple of posters; if you have scratch marks on the side of you hammer, shim your hammer (Triggershims.com) and/or file, stone or otherwise modify your hammer so that it doesn't rub (I've done all three on a couple of revolvers). Rubbing could cause wasted energy, maybe not but not having scratches is better than wondering if it is causing a problem. And last: there is such a thing as bad primers, although nobody wants to hear that because there is no cure for that.

I got a thousand Fed magnum small pistol and a thousand small pistol match primers a week ago at my local store - not cheap. Got some Winchester small rifle (they work just as well as small magnum) $43. They were old enough to be sliver colored. That LGS doesn't sell much reloading supplies and had old stock. Also got Fed lp for $35, they came in a red box.

The problem isn't so much the accuracy as the gun wear. With uncoated lead bullets a large throat can cause leading in the forcing cone as hot gases will pass the bullet in the throat, vaporize the lead and then depositit in the barrel. This is a pain in the neck but doesn't damage the gun. If bullets are to large for the throat the throat will down-size the bullets, but as this happens the cylinder is slamed forward into the frame and then bounces back into the recoil shield. This will eventually increase cylinder end shake. In the extreme, end shake of .010" can cause real problems and S&Ws seem to be more susceptible to this than Rugers. Your bullet should pass through the throat with thumb pressure, if not then down size the bullet of ream the throat.

I got to shoot one a couple of months back. The trigger was smooth, but not light. If I had the money to buy a Korth, I'd get a Manhurin; just as good and less expensive to boot.

The purpose of sizing throat size to bullet size, or bullet size to throat size is that bullets that are larger than the throat are resized by the throat and force the gas shield, at the front of the cylinder, into the frame, then the cylinder rebounds to the recoil shield. Over time this will increase the cylinder end shake (too much is not good) and there will be increased chamber pressure. Uncoated lead bullets that are smaller than the throats allow gas to flow past the bullets and vaporize the surface of the bullet as it exits the throat, this will cause leading of the forcing cone and first inch or so of the barrel. On the other hand, polymer coated bullets don't seem to be affected by this - my 10mm GP100 has .403" throats and I haven't had problems with leading using .401" coated bullets. Tight bullets at lower velocity will probably not affect end shake very quickly, at higher velocity it will occur more quickly. Throats should be the same size as or (preferrably) to .0005" larger than the bullet. Lead bullets sized a couple of thousandths over barrel diameter will squeeze down to barrel diameter, again, you have to plan for a little increase in pressure. My 45 Colt has a .451" barrel with .454" throats, since I upped my bullet size to .454" I haven't had any problems with leading. Small throats are still a problem with jacketed and plated bullets, plated and jacketed bullets through large throats are not a problem.

I use a stainless steel brush (not hard enough to scratch gun metal) and scrub vigorously for a few seconds. Whatever doesn't come off with that stays there. I think that there are more important places to clean than there.

I put one on a GP100-10. It works fine. I would have put one on my 10mm GP, but I couldn't get the screw to back out. I think Ruger puts Lock-tite on them.

Sport Pistol is a fairly clean powder. I've used it for mild load for plates in 38 Spl. and in 10mm for ICORE, in both cases there is a little soot on the cases, but the barrel is clean. If you want a really clean powder use Hodgdon Clays. Hodgdon doesn't list it for use with 9mm and 147 gr. bullets, it is a touchy powder and a little goes a long way. Alliant Clay Dot is reported to be very similar to the point that identical components give the same velocity, but I have no idea about pressure. Alliant does not provide pistol data for Clay Dot, so, if you want, experiment with that carfully, .01 gr. more with these powders makes a difference

I tend to shave with Occum's Razor (the simplest solution is usually the best). Pull the cylinder off (not that hard to do with a Smith), clean the crane tube and inside the cylinder, lubricate a LITTLE, reassemble and see if that fixes things. If the gun worked fine when you stopped using it, there shouldn't be bent or broken parts. I tend to agree with ysrracer; sitting for 40 yrs will not cause a mechanical failure, but grease can crystalize and oil get sticky. If this doesn't work, well it didn't hurt and it is better to try something simple youself before doing something complicated, or running off to a gunsmith.

Proper throat diameter is the same diameter as the bullet to .0005" larger than the bullet diameter. It sounds as if your throats are sized for .357" jacketed bullets. Most revolvers come sized for factory bullets, but every manufacturer has acceptable tolerance, so some guns might be a little loose. If you are shooting mostly lead you should ream your cylinder throats to match your bullets (.358" - .3585") Why? you might ask: If your bullet is larger than the throat, the throat will resize the bullet as it passes through, which will cause the cylinder to slam into the frame and then rebound against the recoil shield. Eventually this will increase cylinder end shake, faster wilth heavy loads, slow with light loads. Because I shoot lead, I had to ream the throats on my .357 GP100 to .358". On my 10mm GP100 the throats were at max. factory tolerance (.403"). Excessive throat diameter can cause leading issues, but polymer coated lead avoids that problem.

I load on a couple of Lyman single stage presses. One is an old (1960,s or so) Spartan press and a new Ideal press. They're slow but cheap and they work just fine.

Usually a second strike will set off a primer, if it doesn't- well, there is such a thing as a bad primer. I've shimmed and polished the insides of my GPs, even filed and polished the sides of my hammer where I have found scratches. I have ground down the hammer step on all. If the fring pin bushing is stcking out a few thousandths toward the hammer, that's a few thousandths of firing pin that isn't helping you. One place you didn't say you polished was the end of the trigger plunger (operates the cylinder latch) and that surface of the latch where the plunger contacts. I have only reduced the hammer spring to 12#, but I still have an 8# trigger pull. A mis-fire is more disconcerting than 1/4-1/2 lbs of trigger pull. How is you cylinder rotation, is it smooth? Over time, and shots, carbon will build up inside the spindle and increase trigger pull. You'll need to remove the cylinder from the crane (but not take apart the extractor) and clean out the gunk. I dropped over 1/4# on my trigger pull cleaning that up. Removing the cylinder from the crane is more of a PIA with a Ruger than a Smith (or Taurus). One thing that I recommend is to get a GP100-10. A rimfire cartridge requires a much harder hit to ignite and I have not been able to get consistant ignition with anything less than the stock hammer spring (heavier that the centerfire spring). But if you shoot the rimfire GP a lot, and get use to its trigger, your Supper GP trigger will feel like single action

Alright, I don't know anything about Titanium cylinders. Alternatively, you can resize the bullets. Polymer coated bullets can be sized down .001" without removing the polymer (yes, I've done this). Lee sizing dies are inexpensive and Midway carries them in .357.

Lead bullets should be sized to your throat, or the throat should be sized to the bullets. You should be able to push your bullet through the throat with thumb pressure, throats should be the same size as the throat or, ideally .0005" smaller. Lead bullets that fall through the throat will cause leading because hot gases will go by the bullets as it leaves the throat and vaporize lead which will build up in the forcing cone and first inch of the barrel. Polymer coated bullets seem to withstand this and not cause leading. Tight bullets will be resized by the throats and, over time, the force of that resizing wil increase the end shake of the cylinder. With light loads that might take a while, but why not size the throat to the bullet, it isn't expensive and can be done at home.

I had a similar problem with a GP100 MC 10mm. I had installed an 8# trigger spring and had a periodic failure to reset. I sent it back to Ruger with a list of things I thought that they should fix. It worked much better, but before I put the 8# spring back in (never send your gun to Ruger with non-stock parts) I took the gun apart and polished all interacting surfaces, especially the trigger plunger and the cylinder latch. With a 12# hammer and #8 lb. trigger spring I have an 8# DA trigger pull. Polishing parts seemed to be the key, for me anyways.