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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About RangerMcFadden

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  1. I’m going to ask Santa for a set of 9mm dies, is there any reason why a set of Dillon dies wouldn’t be optimal for Revo rounds? I would assume not but wanted to check.
  2. Are you picking it up to just have one or are you going to replace it with your current Limited/Open setups? I don’t have an eight shot but I’m thinking of getting the Super GP100 over a 929 for various reasons but I wanted to hear your take on it. Especially considering you’ve seen it in use.
  3. He sure can. Not that I’ll match that performance but it does highlight that I can personally stand to shoot faster. Even if it comes at the cost of a few bravos and a charlie here or there.
  4. I’ve been told “you can’t go fast enough to make up for a mike” While that might be true, I did learn that you can go fast enough to make up 11 FTEs and 16 mikes. And win.
  5. FYI I double checked the round count in the matchbook. It's 412 round (excluding Thursday Classifiers). Additionally Stage 11 "Skew It" claims to have 14 paper targets but 18 targets are on the stage diagram. So add 8 rounds for a minimum round count of 420 rounds. I'm just trying to be helpful; it's hard to differentiate being nice and a nit-picking jerk via the written word.
  6. He was at the Southern Regional this year. The only questionable thing he was wearing was those shoes with the individual toes.
  7. Wait? You’re not gonna try to use an 8-shot revo in IDPA are you? Or have I misunderstood? But yes, it does seem to come down to ammo. For you at least. If you will not reload you have two options: a 9 mm or 38/357 revo. Yes, if you want, you can shoot 38 special in moon clips but there is a reason why people don’t typically do this. In short, reloads are harder/slower. So to fix this people use 38 short colts. You say you don’t want to reload so just know that you’ll be at this disadvantage. Who knows? You might not mind. (And no, you cannot buy 38 short colt that’ll make PF in your revo). If you want an easier reload relative to mooned 38 special, 9mm is a good option. However, much like factory 38 special, 9 mm isn’t guaranteed to make your sports PF. Additionally, the 929 is known for being a bit of a fixer-upper which might mean your factory ammo of choice will not work. It seems like I’m just rehashing a lot of what has already been said. I think it would be helpful for you to expand on exactly what sport you (primarily) want to shoot so we can help better.
  8. It’s my first winter in Minnesota. I have no idea when the weather fails but I’m hoping to get a September match after the IRC and maybe sneak the postal in October before this place freezes over.
  9. I had the hardest time getting played bullets to make chrono in my 4.25” gun. Kept upping the N320 into +p and had a hard time making comfortable chrono. Switched from .357 Berry’s RN to .358 Ibejiheads RN and it was never an issue again.
  10. It seems like there is some interest in an ICORE club up here. If you're in the area and interested please consider joining the ICORE facebook group here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MinnesotaICORE/. It's a bit barebones at the moment but I'll get that fixed sometime in the near future. I have a poll going in the group on the best date to hold our inaugural match.
  11. Alec, if I recall correctly, has a motor or agitator of some sort on his powder drop for his clays to get around that issue.
  12. Is this for a local match? Or is it a regional/IRC? if it’s a local, shoot what ever you’d like no one is gonna chrono you.
  13. I think the center pin is fine as a broken centerpin can’t explain why the cylinder release refuses to move when the cylinder is out of the frame. So: -Press down hard to release cylinder, take cylinder out of frame. -Cylinder release should be able to move back and forth if you moved it. But it’s not; it requires force to return move rearward toward the shooter. -After that forceful push to the rear the cylinder release rests forward toward the muzzle as expected but now can be moved back and forth easily until the cylinder is reinserted and the process begins again. Brass is easily ejected.
  14. I’m going bananas trying to figure out what’s wrong with my bolt/cylinder release. My google-fu is failing as: 1.) Apparently there’s a “bolt action revolver” in a popular video game and that’s mucking up results and 2.) All of the relevant results point to the extractor rod as the cause. This is the case for me. I have a 66-8 which has a yoke mounted lock up and no extractor rod to unscrew it self. Here’s the problem and my work so far: -The cylinder release is very difficult to press but do-able. Once depressed the cylinder is easily released from the frame. However, the cylinder release has to be pulled back to get it to return to its “home”. -Deep cleaned and relubed. No noticeable change. -I exchanged my bolt, bolt plunger, and plunger spring from my 66-2 and put it in the 66-8. Worked well (open and closed 100 times with no hang ups) but after firing 6 rounds it started (again) sticking both directions. -Opened up the side plate and noticed the spring from the internal lock had “bowed out” hitting the bolt as it moved. Removed lock and it became much more tolerable but still sticky. -Did another deep clean and light polish on the channel bolt sits in and the 66-8 bolt. Cleaned after polishing. Put 66-8 bolt back in (keeping 66-2 plunger and spring). -Cylinder release near seized hard to press and requires a pull to return to home position. Other info: -Gun has 8,000-10,000 rounds through it. -Apex hammer installed -Bolt/cylinder release seems easier to move before sideplate is reinstalled. -Was acting perfectly fine and started all of a sudden. Any expertise or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
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