JP-5 reviews/input

[Darqusoull13]

On 2/15/2024 at 7:36 AM, Blackstone45 said:

Can anyone explain how to remove the ejector from the JP-5? It's probably very simple but I don't want to do anything to try and figure it out for myself (and potentially mess up) before asking

Why do you want to remove this is my question? 

[Blackstone45]

33 minutes ago, Darqusoull13 said:

Why do you want to remove this is my question? 

To get the trigger unit out

[Keyst0ne]

1 minute ago, Blackstone45 said:

To get the trigger unit out

Remove the C clip from inside the receiver, push the pivot pin to the outside, and the ejector will come out. There is a spring in the rear to be aware of, but it wasn't too eager to fall out so I've always left it in while I work. 

[Boomstick303]

On 2/15/2024 at 6:36 AM, Blackstone45 said:

Can anyone explain how to remove the ejector from the JP-5? It's probably very simple but I don't want to do anything to try and figure it out for myself (and potentially mess up) before asking

 

As explained above remove the E-Clip.  Note: take care when assembling everything back together correctly and make sure the inner center of the E-Clip, sits in the groove of the Ejector Pin correctly.  If you do not, you can run into all kinds of issues.  One possible one is the E-Clip falls out and the ejector pin fall out of the gun, becoming almost impossible to find.  The ejector then fall into the inside of the gun creating a malfunction.  I had this happen, and that ended up mangling the return spring under the ejector which created all kinds of malfunctions down the road when I replaced the E-Clip.  Anytime you reassemble the ejector, inspect the spring and make sure it is normal to prevent issues down the road.  

 

 

[lroy]

I've been thinking about some tuning methods for the rdb. I really doubt any of it matters in the end, but it's been fun to theorize.

 

The way the system operates, the locking peice dictates how much initial force is required to drive the bolt assembly backward. The buffer spring/weight can add to this, but has the drawback of also causing additional force be created when it pushes forward back into battery.

 

For example, a 70 degree lock with a heavy buffer spring would produce more felt recoil than a 60 degree with a very light buffer spring?

 

Is that correct? I know max tested all of these and preferred the former, I was just curious on why that would be the case.

 

 

[jeffrolc]

On 5/19/2023 at 7:02 PM, falconpilot said:

Pickup up the JP5 today. Got it home and swapped all my Smoke Composite gear over from my GMR-15.  Haven't weighed it yet, but the Smoke gear put it on a serious diet...IMO, there is a big difference in the way the two rifles recoil and dot movement. Now to work up a load and maybe play with different locking pieces..

What did you torque the smoke barrel nut to since it does not actually hold the barrel on?

[Keyst0ne]

11 minutes ago, jeffrolc said:

What did you torque the smoke barrel nut to since it does not actually hold the barrel on?

For me, snug, then a little additional until the handguard mounting holes line up correctly.

[lroy]

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

[GrumpyNO]

1 minute ago, lroy said:

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

Haven't tried, but have you tried different COAL? Longer or shorter?

[Keyst0ne]

5 minutes ago, lroy said:

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

No issues with any I've used including PD. Try moving to a higher locking piece. What are you using now?

[lroy]

4 minutes ago, GrumpyNO said:

Haven't tried, but have you tried different COAL? Longer or shorter?

Ive tried as short as 1.0 and long as 1.125. Im using the same oal as my BMB coated bullets that feed great. Its seems like the flat bit of the JHP is getting snagged or something? My coated projectiles have a round, pointy nose.

[lroy]

2 minutes ago, Keyst0ne said:

No issues with any I've used including PD. Try moving to a higher locking piece. What are you using now?

im using a 70. My ejection is great, so i dont think that is the issue. It even happens when releasing the bolt to load.

[Keyst0ne]

9 minutes ago, lroy said:

im using a 70. My ejection is great, so i dont think that is the issue. It even happens when releasing the bolt to load.

Tried different mags?

[sharko]

18 hours ago, lroy said:

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

 

That and Zero's is all I use, 1.115 OAL. Never had a failure, I use Glock factory mags.

[Darqusoull13]

On 3/7/2024 at 6:07 AM, lroy said:

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

I've used probably 10 different JHP's over 3 JP-5's and haven't had this issue. The V2's specifically fed fine for me. 

What magazines and followers are you using? Is this a persistent issue from round 1 to round x? 

[lroy]

Well s#!t. It looks like it is a mag issue. They run fine with oem glock mags. The TTI pads cause the issue throughout. I sanded the connection point and followers and load to 1.12. 
 

im not sure why round nose dont have this issue. I guess i could try the TF extensions?

 

[Darqusoull13]

49 minutes ago, lroy said:

Well s#!t. It looks like it is a mag issue. They run fine with oem glock mags. The TTI pads cause the issue throughout. I sanded the connection point and followers and load to 1.12. 
 

im not sure why round nose dont have this issue. I guess i could try the TF extensions?

 

No worries, usually is mags. 

TTI +10's should come with a new spring. 

TTI for 17 round GLOCK mags don't need a different spring but only add 4. 

Double check your springs are the correct length and you took out all the other bits other than the spring and follower from the GLOCK mags. 

From there, load the mags completely and feel the pressure of the bullet column as you slowly remove bullets by hand feeding. The column should move with vigor as each round is removed. If you feel the follower get stuck at the transition, you still have something catching. 

[jeremy kemlo]

On 4/4/2023 at 10:51 AM, eerw said:

I moved my offset up forward to avoid getting hit.
 

What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance?

[Boomstick303]

1 hour ago, jeremy kemlo said:

What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance?

 

I have ran both.  I prefer the Techwell, due to the material.  Soft (Delrin I believe) vs hard (Aluminum).  

 

In all honesty it really does not matter in that it is rare that you reload PCC.  Mostly for classifiers and with a little training PCCs are not hard to load.

 

 Delrin will be easier on your mags in the long run.  

 

[Boomstick303]

On 3/7/2024 at 5:07 AM, lroy said:

Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it.

 

Have you removed the ejector recently or at all?  I have an issue where I did not replace the Ejector E Clip properly to where the Ejector Pin fell out of the rifle.  Once I installed it correctly, what I did not know is the Ejector Spring had become Damaged in the process.  It was creating all kinds of ejection issues.  Once I replaced the spring all of my issues went away.  

 

Maybe something to look at.

[eerw]

13 hours ago, jeremy kemlo said:

What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance?

I’ve only run the Techwell. So I can’t compare. But have had no issues with the Techwell either

[TG426]

On 9/27/2023 at 6:35 PM, brian45acp said:

Just want to report the 60 lock piece is awesome. I keep reading others say it's for duty ammo and it's not true. I am only a 124jhp 1130-1150fps. I did swap the SCS to the lightest spring which is white colored. Brass ejects 7-8ft which I just shy of the recommend 9ft by JP. Talking to JP one of their guys uses the 60 lock piece as well. 

 

 

Dont be afraid to try it based on what the internet says. 

 

What powder are you using?

[cferree]

Anyone using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the bolt, BCG, extractor, etc.?

 

I do a full clean every 2500 rounds, and due to the complex shape of the bolt and BCG, getting them clean takes a while.

 

If you are using an ultrasonic, are you cleaning the bolt with the rollers installed or are you removing them?

[Darqusoull13]

57 minutes ago, cferree said:

Anyone using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the bolt, BCG, extractor, etc.?

 

No need. 

I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes. 

[cferree]

5 hours ago, Darqusoull13 said:

No need. 

I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes. 

I'll try that next time.  If that process gets off all the carbon build up, I'll be happy!

N320 residue and lube makes for tacky mess to scape/brush off.