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CMORE RTS 2 dot flickers when the hammer drops ???


nelson1each

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Got about 8,000 rounds through my open gun now. RTS2 has worked great with no issues since I’ve had it. Just cleaned the gun and a few dry fire drops of the hammer for functions checks and I notice the dot is flickering when the hammer drops. Havnt seen this happen before. Changed the battery and it still does it. Is this a sign this sight is about to crap out? Anybody have any input on this? I do have a spare dot if it craps out but would need to get it out and sighted in before FL state in 2 weeks.

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8 minutes ago, echotango said:

Try bending the contacts to touch the battery a little stronger. 

Thanks...Just gave that a try..no change...battery seems to fit in there really snug...dot still flickers from bright to dim (doesn’t completely disappear) when hammer drops 

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Do you have any idea if this is a "newer" sight?  There have been a few revisions to keep things like that from happening.  Early on there were a lot of problems with the dots going off and staying off.  Not sure if yours has the latest updates but you may consider contacting CMore to see if they can help you out.

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It's not the battery or battery contacts so don't waste time with that.  Yes, it's on the way out and this is one of the early signs that it's broken.  It will also come on if turned off when you rack the slide or drop the hammer.  This is the root problem with the RTS2 since its birth.  You either need to return it for a new board (that will have the same shortcomings) or patch up the board.

Edited by theWacoKid
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20 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:

It's not the battery or battery contacts so don't waste time with that.  Yes, it's on the way out and this is one of the early signs that it's broken.  It will also come on if turned off when you rack the slide or drop the hammer.  This is the root problem with the RTS2 since its birth.  You either need to return it for a new board (that will have the same shortcomings) or patch up the board.

Can u tell use how u patch up the board.an is this a long term fix. Or just get buy few matches

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Part of the prep for the Docter sight was to reposition the side battery contact by re-soldering it to a more vertical position. The stock sight had a slight tilt away from the battery. Check the contact geometry.  Be careful about polishing/buffing contacts as they probably have a very thin flash plating. If you cut through that the cheap metal underneath can corrode. The Docter had a magnet to help hold the battery in place. This was not enough for a slide ride open major gun. Since the battery was held in place by screwing down the mounting screws, we used to put a small rubber stick-on pad (furniture protector) on the slide to compress against the battery as the screws were torqued.

 

Even with the rubber pad, it was possible to change the battery without re-zero as long as the locator posts were correctly sized. IMHO, battery doors and trays are just plain dumb on slide ride dots. (Actually, any moving part is asking for trouble)

 

ETA: We also ruggedized the interconnects so what Waco describes 2 post up doesn't happen. Silicon rubber (RTV) added to the strain areas like where wire is soldered to the PCB. Once you see what moves, you will see that to reinforce. Be sure to stay away from any adjustment bits.

Edited by ChuckS
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46 minutes ago, 36873687 said:

Can u tell use how u patch up the board.an is this a long term fix. Or just get buy few matches

 

No because every fix is unique and it's tedious work.  If you know PCB's, board work, and a little about microcontrollers you can figure it out case by case.

 

The right fix holds up long term, or said in a better way, at least makes the dot more reliable than brand new.  However, each fix exposes the next weakest link.  

 

At this point I continue to fix them as they break and each fix makes them more reliable.  But with the continual trouble we still need an improved option or I'm going to start making internals from scratch. 

 

The reason I post this is just to explain that the battery contact is not the issue.  Not saying it's not possible, but I have yet to see a problem dot caused by battery contact.  Also, the original root problem that plagued the RTS2 before v4 is still there.  v4 is nothing more than microcontroller code that makes what used to be "turning off" into "flickers".   Or at least functionally that is my conclusion on v4 from investigation.  So carefully watch your dot for flicker or turning on when jarred. 

Edited by theWacoKid
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1 hour ago, theWacoKid said:

 

No because every fix is unique and it's tedious work.  If you know PCB's, board work, and a little about microcontrollers you can figure it out case by case.

 

The right fix holds up long term, or said in a better way, at least makes the dot more reliable than brand new.  However, each fix exposes the next weakest link.  

 

At this point I continue to fix them as they break and each fix makes them more reliable.  But with the continual trouble we still need an improved option or I'm going to start making internals from scratch. 

 

The reason I post this is just to explain that the battery contact is not the issue.  Not saying it's not possible, but I have yet to see a problem dot caused by battery contact.  Also, the original root problem that plagued the RTS2 before v4 is still there.  v4 is nothing more than microcontroller code that makes what used to be "turning off" into "flickers".   Or at least functionally that is my conclusion on v4 from investigation.  So carefully watch your dot for flicker or turning on when jarred. 


^^^^^^ Knows more about the RTS2's than Cmore  Pay close attention.  

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1 hour ago, theWacoKid said:

 

No because every fix is unique and it's tedious work.  If you know PCB's, board work, and a little about microcontrollers you can figure it out case by case.

 

The right fix holds up long term, or said in a better way, at least makes the dot more reliable than brand new.  However, each fix exposes the next weakest link.  

 

At this point I continue to fix them as they break and each fix makes them more reliable.  But with the continual trouble we still need an improved option or I'm going to start making internals from scratch. 

 

The reason I post this is just to explain that the battery contact is not the issue.  Not saying it's not possible, but I have yet to see a problem dot caused by battery contact.  Also, the original root problem that plagued the RTS2 before v4 is still there.  v4 is nothing more than microcontroller code that makes what used to be "turning off" into "flickers".   Or at least functionally that is my conclusion on v4 from investigation.  So carefully watch your dot for flicker or turning on when jarred. 

They need to put u on the pay roll. 

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4 hours ago, theWacoKid said:

It's not the battery or battery contacts so don't waste time with that.  Yes, it's on the way out and this is one of the early signs that it's broken.  It will also come on if turned off when you rack the slide or drop the hammer.  This is the root problem with the RTS2 since its birth.  You either need to return it for a new board (that will have the same shortcomings) or patch up the board.

Yup it turns on when racked too! Excellent info and thanks for sharing! Any idea of how long the life expectancy is for the sight once it shows these flickering/turning on when racked signs? 

Just for everyone’s knowledge. I got about 8k rounds through my gun before I had any issues with the sight. I called CMore they told me to send them the sight and they will fix it. Ill need to get my spare installed and sighted in.

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4 minutes ago, nelson1each said:

Yup it turns on when racked too! Excellent info and thanks for sharing! Any idea of how long the life expectancy is for the sight once it shows these flickering/turning on when racked signs? 

Just for everyone’s knowledge. I got about 8k rounds through my gun before I had any issues with the sight. I called CMore they told me to send them the sight and they will fix it. Ill need to get my spare installed and sighted in.

 

How much left is a total crapshoot, but typically not very long at all.  If you get a new one to go 10k rounds you have one of the better ones.  Often they go out the first time well before that.

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59 minutes ago, nelson1each said:

Yup it turns on when racked too! Excellent info and thanks for sharing! Any idea of how long the life expectancy is for the sight once it shows these flickering/turning on when racked signs? 

Just for everyone’s knowledge. I got about 8k rounds through my gun before I had any issues with the sight. I called CMore they told me to send them the sight and they will fix it. Ill need to get my spare installed and sighted in.

 

They do fix them, and get them back to you.  The micros are all somewhat fussy, and their customer service helps quite a bit.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Don't mean to hijack the thread but.....My Vortex Razor 6moa mounted on my open gun gets brighter then turns off when I shoot.

I would like to run it on my open gun.  Any ideas.

Edited by corny
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