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Taccom ULW 9 mm barrel.....


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13 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: So if you have a 8" barrel and a 16" with the same loads the 8" will be faster? Both barrels are made by the same manufacturer and slug the same. Thanks, Eric

 

No, it just means that you would only gain about 40fps by having an additional 10" of barrel.  The average gain would be 4fps/inch beyond the 8".

 

The 8" barrel gives you ~1,050fps and the 18" gives you ~1,090fps.

 

Makes sense?

 

Edited by L9X25
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I don't remember the exact load, but it was my 147 production load with Blue bullets. It was 132pf in my Limited Pro. Thru a 16" Kaw upper that I don't have anymore, I was getting 128pf. I realize that is a sample size of one, but made me curious. I came across a thread here that said that was to be expected, so I assumed...

I'd recheck it, but only have the ULW & a 10.5" SBR now.  I'd enjoy seeing someone's real results. 

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6 minutes ago, OPENB said:

I don't remember the exact load, but it was my 147 production load with Blue bullets. It was 132pf in my Limited Pro. Thru a 16" Kaw upper that I don't have anymore, I was getting 128pf. I realize that is a sample size of one, but made me curious. I came across a thread here that said that was to be expected, so I assumed...

I'd recheck it, but only have the ULW & a 10.5" SBR now.  I'd enjoy seeing someone's real results. 

 

When shot to shot variation can be ~25fps, it makes it really difficult to get exact numbers on any of this.  Your velocity could actually be the same out of the pistol and rifle, or even faster from the rifle and the shot to shot variation is simply larger than the difference in the barrels. 

 

Ideally, we would have the ability to fire a single shot and have the ability to measure the speed of the bullet at every inch of travel as it passes through the barrel.  

That would eliminate the biggest variable, but I do not know of anyone with the equipment to do that.  Shooting a larger sample is the easier way to get a better answer.

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37 minutes ago, tyler2you said:

 

What would happen if you failed to brush out the tube after a few thousand rounds of coated bullets?

I think he’s suggesting the residue build up might become extremely hard to clean out if you don’t clean it out regularly. 

 

I wonder if the stuff people are spraying on their comps to make cleanup easier would help inside the aluminum shroud as well? 

 

Tim, thoughts?

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1 hour ago, nickbfishn said:

I think he’s suggesting the residue build up might become extremely hard to clean out if you don’t clean it out regularly. 

 

I wonder if the stuff people are spraying on their comps to make cleanup easier would help inside the aluminum shroud as well? 

 

Tim, thoughts?

Don't know........I just stay with FMJ 

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I am trying to figure out how to clean out my two Taccom ULW barrel shrouds. Both have a few thousand rounds through them and the build up is noticeable.

 

 I tried a bronze shotgun brush with solvent....does not even touch it.

 

I shoot WWB 115gr FMJ, but they have a exposed lead base.

 

 

Edited by BigBamBoo
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24 minutes ago, BigBamBoo said:

I am trying to figure out how to clean out my two Taccom ULW barrel shrouds. Both have a few thousand rounds through them and the build up is noticeable.

 

 I tried a bronze shotgun brush with solvent....does not even touch it.

 

I shoot WWB 115gr FMJ, but they have a exposed lead base.

 

 

 

Maybe a drill-powered brake hone?

 

https://www.amazon.com/T71791-4-Inch-2-Inch-Adjustable-Cylinder/dp/B00A4AI9HC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XXETSMSD055Y0RMJ6XX3

Edited by L9X25
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2 hours ago, nickbfishn said:

  Question, is it  lead that is accumulating on the shroud or is it the poly coating?

I only use WEB FMJ ammo so I am pretty sure in my case it is lead.

 

You can pretty much only access the shroud from the front since it is pined and welded to the barrel.

 

I think the hone idea from above might work if I can figure out some kind of extension to attach to it so I can get all the way inside the shroud.

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Here's an idea, after you got the lead out, insert some sort of plastic sheet rolled inside of the aluminum.  That would catch the lead and you could replace it from time to time.  Might also get burned/melted, but it would be worth a try!

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3 hours ago, L9X25 said:

Here's an idea, after you got the lead out, insert some sort of plastic sheet rolled inside of the aluminum.  That would catch the lead and you could replace it from time to time.  Might also get burned/melted, but it would be worth a try!

 

 Or could someone manufacture a smaller ID aluminum tube that would slip inside but still be removable for cleaning.   Make it very light and possibly even disposable.

 

I'm curious if neglected, just how bad it would get.  Enough to cause a hazard or affect accuracy?  Possibly enough lead buildup to affect balance?

 

Does anyone know if the 50/50 mix of peroxide and vinegar is safe for use with aluminum?  Not very expensive to apply if it works without destroying a nice barrel.

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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I took a look inside my tube last night after 1700 rounds of nothing but coated lead (147gr BBI).  Other than some unburnt powder and a coat of carbon, it looked fine.  No lead build-up at all.  FMJs with an exposed base and uncoated lead are probably a different story.

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3 hours ago, tyler2you said:

I took a look inside my tube last night after 1700 rounds of nothing but coated lead (147gr BBI).  Other than some unburnt powder and a coat of carbon, it looked fine.  No lead build-up at all.  FMJs with an exposed base and uncoated lead are probably a different story.

not true.......it's the base corner of the bullet, as it exits the barrel, the gases will cut that lead making it molten.....and then it will cool down on the shroud. that you are not getting any lead built up with 147 cast is interesting, might be a little less pressure. the 124 FMJ after 10K rounds has zero lead build up 

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57 minutes ago, TRUBL said:

not true.......it's the base corner of the bullet, as it exits the barrel, the gases will cut that lead making it molten.....and then it will cool down on the shroud. that you are not getting any lead built up with 147 cast is interesting, might be a little less pressure. the 124 FMJ after 10K rounds has zero lead build up 

 

Tim--I was just basing the FMJ comment on what BigBamBoo said above.  He's shooting 115gr WWB and has noticeable leading in his tube.

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The powder being used makes a big difference.  I was shooting Open with a 10mm and 135gr hard cast bullets and had a a lot of leading issues in the barrel and the comp.  

I was communicating with the bullet caster and he asked me to try out some Solo 1500 powder. It is nitro-cotton (instead of the more common nitro-cellulose) and burns much cooler and cleaner.  The cases would eject looking about the same as when they came out of the tumbler, barrel leading and comp leading were greatly reduced to the point of being a non-issue. These were un-coated hard cast lead.

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