tbarker13 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Just wondering if anyone is actually messing with the sear-hammer engagement surfaces? I keep thinking about getting one of the stoning jigs from Power Custom for my 1911s. I notice they also have an adaptor for the CZ 75 and Tangfolio EA-9/P9. Wonder if that would also work for the Stock II/IIIs. But that's an additional $250 or so once you pay for jig, adaptor and stone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 if you do that you need to get them rehardened, they are only surface hardened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) If you are going to do that get the EGW sear and Hammer. I may have a brand new EGW sear for sale if you are interested. Trade for a part in your spare parts kit? EDIT: EGW is for SA guns. No lifter on it for firing pin block. Will work in DA but not Prod legal. Edited April 14, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I've actually wondered about that... Why couldn't you modify the EGW sear to work with the lifter from the two piece sear? Then you have a thru hardened sear that is still compatible with SA/DA and the firing pin block. And because it is all internal, it is still legal for USPSA Production. Not sure how much there would be to gained there though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 You should buy mine and play with the concept Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 if you do that you need to get them rehardened, they are only surface hardened Ah, well that saves me some money and potential headaches down the road.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Just wondering if anyone is actually messing with the sear-hammer engagement surfaces? I keep thinking about getting one of the stoning jigs from Power Custom for my 1911s. I notice they also have an adaptor for the CZ 75 and Tangfolio EA-9/P9. Wonder if that would also work for the Stock II/IIIs. But that's an additional $250 or so once you pay for jig, adaptor and stone. I have that setup, and its "ok". Mine doesn't cut the sear surface at square angle. So if I flip the sear and hit it with the stone you can see that it only hits on one side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Testing her out at a steel match tomorrow. See if my whiskey gunsmithing holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I am looking for advice. I finally got my hands on a Stock 3 and want to begin my mods. First, the recoil spring. I am shooting 115 grain 9mm rounds. I was thinking that leaving the stock recoil spring in is a good idea because of the lighter bullet. Second, I measured the trigger pull at just under 4.5 lbs. I need to have a minimum of 3.5 lbs. Does anyone know what reduction I will get if I change the plunger spring using the plunger spring in the Henning stock 2 upgrade kit. i was thinking about just polishing hings up and leaving it be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Did you check your FP safety yet? Im curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) Hey Robert - Hammer cocked back and safety on will lock in the FPB as expected. No tuning needed. Took it out to the range today. Ran in SA mode flawlessly however in DA I would get about 2 light primer striker out of 12 with Remington Primers. I have the Xtreme "light" Firing Pin Spring and Hammer. The hammer is rated at 13.8 Lbs. Probably will go up a little in Hammer Spring weight. For you that dont know the DA hammer stroke is slightly shorter than SA hammer stroke. Edited April 16, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Which firing pin are you running. With that spring combination and the Henning DA/SA firing pin my stock 2 makes a serious indention on Winchester primers. I can launch a pencil about 10" on DA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Henning Gen II Firing Pin. Every LPS I had would ignite the second strike. I have an EG Firing Pin I can try next as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Any chance of high primers? I started with the EG firing pin (before Henning came out with his) and would get lite strikes. Once I switched to the Henning pin I have had zero lite strikes. One thing I like to do is wrap a #2 pencil with 800 or 1000 grit sand paper chuck it up in a drill and polish the firing pin channel and the channel for the hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Do you have a light firing pin spring as well? Im running CCI with no problems. However I have the heavier Titan hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Finished my initial run at reworking my Stock III last night. Lots of new Extreme parts. Lots of polishing. Also added the one-piece sear. Much smoother now, though I may go back in for some more polishing. And I still haven't tried fitting the CGW T3 disco yet. Everything seems fine, except that thumb safety will no longer engage. I'm assuming it's going to need some modification to go along with the new sear. Anyone have any guidance on which surface needs tuning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Thumb safety almost always need fitting to the sear. You will want to make or buy a slave pin for this task. Holding the gun like you are shooting it. The left front leg of the sear is not clearing the nub on the safety. These much match up. Take a little material off at a time. Dont over due it or you have now made the safety useless and in turn made the gun competition illegal. The sear slave pin makes the tedious act of removing the sear several times much easier. Start at the tip and work your way back. My one piece sear was fitted to another limited and I had issues fitting it to this one. My OCD is going to install another fresh one piece sear when it arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Take a look at the safety function with the slide off the gun. There is a square notch on the safety that should fit under the sear leg on the left side of the sear. You need to file down the underside of that hook on the sear until you can swing the safety up underneath it. Don't take too much off though. It's possible to take too much off the sear, and the hammer will drop is SA with the safety engaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ahh. So I have to file the sear, rather than the safety itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Yeah dont do the safety. Sears are cheaper and they come and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I suppose that's true. But taking material off the safety sure seems easier than having to take that sear cage apart numerous times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 If you have a slave pin its really only a 30 second job to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Started using a toothpick for the job last night. Seemed to work ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Just cut a qtip to the right length for a slave pin. I just sanded the safety instead of the sear. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I will put the sear and spring in, put the pin in far enough to keep sear steady then use Glock tool and thread thru opposite side and once lined up push the pin thru and easy done. Definitely wouldn't remove material from safety when fitting sear. It's a tedious process but sears are much cheaper and it doesn't take a whole lot off sear to get safety to work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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