Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Nealio

Classifieds
  • Posts

    2,476
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nealio

  1. If you have any issues with the slide not going fully into battery this can happen as well. Things like a worn out recoil spring, the barrel lug or slide being dirty. These guns can fire still when they are really close, but not fully in battery which then eats up the hammer's energy and can cause light strikes and misfires.
  2. The gun isn't drop safe, the Tanfoglio firing pin block is terrible design and only stops the firing pin when the gun is cocked (technically when the sear drops into the sear hooks of the hammer, an arm on the opposite side of the sear goes up and then engages the firing pin block). I removed all of mine. I'm there there are a few threads on here where I go into more detail.
  3. The big issue with the stock guiderod is that it doesn't have a sharp edge to catch the tiny cutout they make in the frame, so it just rounds off that tiny ledge on the cutout over time. The cone fit puts the pressure over a bigger surface, ironically just like the Hunter guide rod does.
  4. Find some of my threads from years ago on the issues with 10mm's on this platform. The shearing of the screws is from the slide's dustcover bottoming out on the frame. The Hunter uses a different recoil rod so you can't use any off the shelf dual spring systems for the regular Witness. My suggestion would be to build your own dual spring setup with something like a 22# cut to 3/4 length, then use 1/4 length of like a 14# with a washer or thin spacer in between. The problem with a 22# is now you're going to slam that slide shut so hard you will probably crack your slide stop pin.
  5. Yeah the only way I got mine to not toss brass 30 feet is with that Sprinco Recoil Reducer and shortening the ejector. With a super stiff spring, the slide slams back home so hard I worried about breaking the slide stop. The problem with that brass buffer is that you are now shock loading the slide and I would worry about the slide cracking.
  6. You may need to run the Sprinco Recoil Reducer. That's what I ran in my 10mm.
  7. When the accuracy starts going downhill, or when I can feel it coming out of battery if I jiggle it.
  8. I have the shock bottle and the Springer Precision and honestly I like the Springer better. Plus they are $17.50/ea
  9. 50% of the time when I stuff 24 in my mags the bottom 2 rounds get wedged side by side and it turns into a salt shaker. And yes that setup runs great. I have tens of thousands of rounds through K9's with Henning pads and Grams followers.
  10. Your barrel could be fit a little tight. Take a piece of paper and put it between the top of the barrel and the breach face and try to put the gun into battery. If it won't go you're probably a little tight on the barrel fit.
  11. I would leave the peanut/bean alone unless you see some bur in there. Your barrel could be fit a little tight, which could also cause this.
  12. I know on the EGW hammers, the 1/2 cock hooks were actually higher than the main hooks, so I always had to stone them down (which is lame).
  13. I run the Quinn, but I have it moved back by 1 hole to keep it away from my ports.
  14. Stovepipes is usually from running too heavy of a recoil spring, so the slide can't go back far enough to let the brass hit the ejector hard.
  15. It could be a couple things: Pull the trigger all the way back, but don't smash it into the overtravel. Now pull the hammer back all the way and slowly let it down so its at rest in the "hammer down" position if you feel contact (rubbing) then your trigger overtravel is set too tight If the sear snaps in to the hammer hooks your overtravel might be too loose, or you've shortened your sear leg too much and the trigger bar is popping off.
  16. Polish the "rib" in the middle of the slide as well. I usually stone them with a India stone, then go to 2000 grit or a ceramic stone until it nearly mirror finish.
  17. I run a 147 Xtreme with 3.5gr of Solo 1000 in my Limited
  18. There is a small square stamped on the frame near the trigger guard and it has some letters/symbols in it. You can use this chart as a reference to see what year it was imported: http://tz75man.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2
  19. Honestly I don't think this is related to the guide rod. In order for something to peen the barrel like that, it would take a lot more force than the guide rod rubbing on it. From you description I would think its possible that the barrel wasn't fit properly. More specifically the hood is "too long". The "hood" is the very top part of the barrel above the chamber and is what hits the breach face when the slide is closed. A brand new barrel has extra metal there that sticks out a little bit and must be filed down to "fit" the barrel into the slide. If the hood is a few thousandths too long it puts a lot of downward pressure on the end of the barrel and doesn't allow the lugs to slide into place easily. If its too short then your barrel will rattle around a little in the slide when the gun is in battery. A poorly fit barrel would also cause wear on the lugs and possibly some rounding as you have described. This isn't a perfect test, but you can take something really thin (approx .002") like a feeler gauge and place it on the top of breach face . If the gun goes into battery normally your barrel isn't too tight. If it locks up and won't go into battery, then its probably too tight.
  20. Now you just need to find 4 friends to split it with
  21. Yeah the .40 with the light spring will hitch at little when closing from slide lock. Make sure you have enough crimp on your rounds.
×
×
  • Create New...