praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 I found clipping rivet pins works well too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Sounds easy enough. I'll work on the sear and leave the safety alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Wise decision. You should always fit the sear to the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 This was actually the first thing I did in regards to working on my first tang solo. Super easy just take your time. You can always take more off but you cant put it back on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Which reminds me. I was looking at parts on LRA and Henning. Came across the improved hammer pin and reamer kit. Didn't buy it. But made me wonder if there's much value there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Spend the money on bullets IMO. On a side note Im going to rewrite this and add everyone's suggestions today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGus Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I've also got a Stock 3 9mm that I'm definitely wanting to upgrade the trigger and possibly improve the reset. This has been a great thread, but i think the more i read the more confused i get about which hammer, firing pin, springs, etc, that I should install? Should I get the one piece sear, the CGW Type 3 Disconnnector, etc? Could someone simply itemize a list of all the specific parts (what they believe are the best parts) that are needed to upgrade/improve the Stock 3 trigger and reset? No explanation of fitting needed, or where to polish, just simply an itemized list. I would REALLY appreciate it! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Has anyone had a fail to extract issue. I fired 100 rounds without a problem. Cleaned the gun and on a second occasion fired another 100 rounds, no problems. I then did the a fore mentioned polishing job, replaced the plunger spring with Hennings #18 and replaced the recoil spring to 8lb with the accompanying firing pin spring. I then brought it to the range and had two fail to extract malfunctions during the next 50 rounds. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SISIG Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Has anyone had a fail to extract issue. I fired 100 rounds without a problem. Cleaned the gun and on a second occasion fired another 100 rounds, no problems. I then did the a fore mentioned polishing job, replaced the plunger spring with Hennings #18 and replaced the recoil spring to 8lb with the accompanying firing pin spring. I then brought it to the range and had two fail to extract malfunctions during the next 50 rounds. Any advice? 10lb recoil spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) I had it happen with the original recoil spring as well. It looks like it failed to hang on as it was extracting because the shell was partially removed from the chamber. Edited April 26, 2015 by Min Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Henning Gen II Firing Pin. Every LPS I had would ignite the second strike. I have an EG Firing Pin I can try next as well. Was the second strike da again or SA? If it was da again I'd suggest it's primer seat depth issue. First strike is seating the primer deeper, second strike sets it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 I've actually wondered about that... Why couldn't you modify the EGW sear to work with the lifter from the two piece sear? Then you have a thru hardened sear that is still compatible with SA/DA and the firing pin block. And because it is all internal, it is still legal for USPSA Production. Not sure how much there would be to gained there though... You could. The egw sear has a kind of spacer surface where the fpb lifter would normally be. If you removed that I'm pretty sure the lifter from the 2 piece sear would fit just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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