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Stock III upgrades in progress


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Is anyone polishing the back of the TB where it enrages the disco? I don't have anything small enough to fit in there.

I polished mine on my bench griner with a buffing wheel installed

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Cant think of exactly where you are talking about, but I use half a cardboard shaft cue tip with polish chucked up in a drill for a lot of my polishing. For the real small spots, you can use just the cardboard stick itself in the drill with some polish. That small enough?

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Are you talking these touch points or where the hook goes in?

4884876436_520f514eb2.jpg

Just want to say thanks for all these photos.

I'm still collecting all the parts for my Stock III, but once I start work on it - these photos are going to quite helpful.

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Are you talking these touch points or where the hook goes in?

4884876436_520f514eb2.jpg

Thats it. The area on the right engages the disco, the one on the left engages the sear.

That's a great idea, Adam. I'll have to try it. However my trigger is nice and smooth now.

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Just ordered the T3 Disco. A little nervous about trying to fit that part in.

No worries, there is a lot of info on installing a T3 in the Tanfo forum. Might be a good idea to start a new thread just for this, so others in the future would have a one stop info source on the install.

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Agreed. Installed 2 T3s in Stock IIs and one in a stock III. One stock II and the III had enough pretravel before install that the DA was the only fitting, after opening the pin hole. The other stock II required fitting for DA and SA reset

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Sorry, I don't have a picture. I got my info from the other thread about the T3 disco.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194198

It should be pretty clear once you get all the parts out and start looking at it.

Also, here's a big tip to save you time. You'll need to remove the disco from the hammer a number of times to fit it properly. But, instead of installing and removing the roll pin from the hammer every time, use a slave pin. I imagine a Q-tip shaft cut to the width of the hammer would work. A lot easier than beating that roll pin in and out.

I have some wooden shaft swabs and used that.

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First Pass.

I quickly put the gun back together mainly just to see how the one piece sear was going to work. Definitely needs some more work.

Still mooshy on DA. A lot of pre travel take up on the SA. Hope the custom fit CGW T3 will resolve that though. About a 3lb SA break with a super short reset that I love.

CGW TRS and Xtreme Light Hammer Spring are the only springs changed so far. Shes going to definitely need some more tender love.

Edited by praetorian97
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Anyone polishing the underside of the sear that runs along the top of the hammer in DA. During DA pull this surface drags along each other.

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11137091_10205305873942965_3188467173758

I polished it. The sear I got from grauffel had a dent on that surface.

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handled the stock 2, 3 and the extreme models at the NRA annual convention in Nashville. They are nice guns. I wished they were readily available. One the guys manning their booth told me that they cannot keep up with the demand.

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Good question. Is there any way to check functionality besides pencil test and manual operation with the slide off?

It seems to lock it out when manually depressed (slide off) and then will shoot a pencil out of the barrel during normal trigger squeeze in SA/DA.

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Good question. Is there any way to check functionality besides pencil test and manual operation with the slide off?

It seems to lock it out when manually depressed (slide off) and then will shoot a pencil out of the barrel during normal trigger squeeze in SA/DA.

Cock the hammer with the slide installed and try to depress the firing pin. Shouldn't move past the back plate face.

I lightly polished where the TB contacts the frame and inside where the hammer spring and TB spring go.

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