NorCal707 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 My Brother & I both own JM Pro 24's - use them recreationally shooting clays, etc. About the only issue we have is the stock choke tubes loosen up every time after shooting 25-50 rounds despite tightening them as much as possible with the stock wrench. Is there a certain type of non-permanent Loctite that could be used to prevent this from happening? I have some Blue Loctite but figured it'd be best to ask here before using it. Thanks - Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I grease mine and check for tight before stepping into the shooters box. Grease keeps them from migrating very far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) Had the same problem as NC707, until I got a better choke tube wrench than the OEM POS. The stock one does not allow you to get much torque, and it often slipped when I leaned on it, raising burrs on the choke tube.Went with a Briley wrench, rather expensive, but very well made. Probably just as good and much more reasonable are http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/choke-tube-wrenches/universal-choke-tube-wrench-prod4175.aspx and http://www.trulockchokes.com/choke-wrench-machined-gauge-p-1652.php However these will not work with the factory choke tubes, as they have only 2 slots, not 4. So, perfect opportunity to switch to extended choke tubes, which you can check for tightness by hand, no tools required Trulock makes some really good ones, for less than Briley. Rather than loctite, I use anti seize. Edited December 30, 2014 by mpom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentsight Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Thanks for the link to the Trulock wrench, every time I use a diffuser choke it "threads" itself into the barrel so tightly because of the RH twist in the tube that it's nearly impossible to remove it with the factory wrench. The longer "pilot" portion of the wrench with an extended handle should make removal of the diffuser much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Try a Carlsons speed wrench. The rubber insert expands when you tighten the wing nut on top. I put an O ring on the rubber insert next to the red aluminum arm so I don't scar up the end of the muzzle when screwing in a flush choke. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/choke-tube-wrenches/12-gauge-sporting-clay-speed-wrench-sku155102012-4177-9918.aspx?sku=155-102-012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeti Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Grease and tighten up snuggly. If you use Loctite you will ultimately regret it, someday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I found that silver solder works great to keep a choke tube from loosening. (note: inside joke for my amigos) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffgats Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Plumbers Tape ( Teflon Tape), 2-3 passes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 a post about loc-tite. it is a variety of superglue and from all I can tell it does not hold well under shear/hammering. the glue is brittle. medium strength may work, but I worry you may try high strength. If grease is a possible solution then you want something soft to hold from motion like rubber cement. that teflon tape idea may be a good path. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPeel Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I use anti sieze grease. A little dab'll do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZip Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I think anti-seize would work well as it has a pretty consistent viscosity regardless of temp, and wont harm things. Can be a bit messy, but have you looked at your hands after a day of practice? Mine get kind of messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 a post about loc-tite. it is a variety of superglue and from all I can tell it does not hold well under shear/hammering. the glue is brittle. medium strength may work, but I worry you may try high strength. If grease is a possible solution then you want something soft to hold from motion like rubber cement. that teflon tape idea may be a good path. miranda I have used red Loctite to retain compensators on pistols for years. They take a MUCH more aggressive hammering than a choke does. However, Loctite is useless if both surfaces are not perfectly clean and dry prior to application. Red does allow removal with application of a reasonable amount of heat- around 500 degrees or so. Green is basically impossible to remove without excessive heat, and Blue will break down within the range of heat produced by a big shotgun-only stage. HOWEVER, I would not Loctite my chokes in. Anti-seize will keep them from migrating too far as stated above, and keeps them from galling in place if left in the barrel for long periods. I have gone exclusively to extended chokes so I can check tightness by hand whenever I want. Also gives my ADHD mind something to do when I am on the on-deck shooter waiting for the call up to the line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stlhead Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Slid glide and check on them once in a while. Or silver solder will work, but only for a light modified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentsight Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I found that silver solder works great to keep a choke tube from loosening. (note: inside joke for my amigos) Understood, but I need a better arrow with my mere mortal abilities... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R107H Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I've always just used a little dab of grease on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 a post about loc-tite. it is a variety of superglue and from all I can tell it does not hold well under shear/hammering. the glue is brittle. medium strength may work, but I worry you may try high strength. If grease is a possible solution then you want something soft to hold from motion like rubber cement. that teflon tape idea may be a good path. miranda I have used red Loctite to retain compensators on pistols for years. They take a MUCH more aggressive hammering than a choke does. However, Loctite is useless if both surfaces are not perfectly clean and dry prior to application. Red does allow removal with application of a reasonable amount of heat- around 500 degrees or so. Green is basically impossible to remove without excessive heat, and Blue will break down within the range of heat produced by a big shotgun-only stage. HOWEVER, I would not Loctite my chokes in. Anti-seize will keep them from migrating too far as stated above, and keeps them from galling in place if left in the barrel for long periods. I have gone exclusively to extended chokes so I can check tightness by hand whenever I want. Also gives my ADHD mind something to do when I am on the on-deck shooter waiting for the call up to the line yeah, I figured someone would say what you have said. you may not believe me that I don't really think chokes and sights and compensators get shear/hammered.... the shear part is more important. it is hard to explain where the glue fails.. and shear/hammer is the best way I know. you can loctite a pair of blocks together and they will hold quite a lot of tension. tap the joint sideways and when the glue fails it often lets go completely. the glue can take shear but if you shock it in shear, it will fail. if the medium loc-tite is used and found wanting.... most people try the high strength... and that is what I wanted the OP to avoid. I have seen spark plugs with red loc-tite on them. god knows why... miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorCal707 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Thanks everyone - will try some anti-sieze or a dab of grease. If that doesn't do the trick, a set of extended tubes with a proper wrench will be next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncledoc Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Plus one to Openclassterror.....extended chokes and grease does the trick for me...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgtsvi Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I grease my choke threads every time I change them or clean the gun. I keep a tube of bacon grease from the shooting chef in my case for application of the grease. You also get a nice bacon smell after 10 rounds of ammo heating the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPeel Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I grease my choke threads every time I change them or clean the gun. I keep a tube of bacon grease from the shooting chef in my case for application of the grease. You also get a nice bacon smell after 10 rounds of ammo heating the barrel. well now.... that's a bonus. and explains why you have been observed sniffing your gun after a stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colbyjack Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Hahahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 1841 Posted 30 December 2014 - 08:22 AM I use anti sieze grease. A little dab'll do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanbach Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 With mine I tighten as much as I can with that little crappy wrench. I figure that should be tight enough to work. Mine has never came loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorCal707 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks everyone - I tried a tiny dab of sticky Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease and have had no issues since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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