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Once out I polish the channel with a rolled up piece of sand paper (1000 grit or finer) and I will spin the new firing pin in a drill or drill press, using sand paper to polish it as well.

Didn't see this tidbit before, guess it's good to go on polishing the firing pin.

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awesome thread.

STICKY vote here

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I just found this video, I don't have time to watch it, but if anyone does watch it be sure to let us know if it's any good:

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watched a bit. a few things I wouldn't do.

for some reason he puts the gun in a plastic bag to remove the left side safety and makes a bit of a meal of it. he doesn't hold back the detent so he tries levering off the safety with a screw driver whilst inside a plastic bag.

right side safety he also doesn't realise it has a lip and needs to be rotated up before you pull it out so again he just forces it against the little detent with a screw driver.

he also doesn't remove the mainspring/hammer spring till after he does the safety and sear cage (which he keeps calling the ejector, I guess it is, but I would call it sear cage I guess). I would always suggest taking the hammer spring out is probably first.

when removing the mainspring pin I would also push against the plug to take the pressure off the pin. then it literally drops out. instead he just pushes it out with a punch. then he can't remove the plug as he didn't remove the mag brake. again, I would remove the mag brake first as otherwise the plug can get wedged against it.

for some reason when he gets the plug wedged against the mag brake instead of pushing up and then removing the top mag brake pin, he just bends it till it comes out of the bottom slot. he then doesn't remove the mag brake at all and leaves it dangling from the top pin. I've no idea why? they pin basically falls out by itself. get it out of the way I say.

he puts the gun back in the bag to take out the left safety detent but it goes flying anyway (no need to compress it much like he did, just push from the outside in and it pops out).

but really I guess they are all pretty minor and it's easy to be an armchair critic. I guess it was his first time breaking down the SP01. I probably wouldn't post an instructional vid of my first time doing something (as it's more or a learning exercise).

Having said that, he did a nice job of the vid. most of it is very clear. it gives a good look at the parts inside and someone who has not played with it before will benefit just from that.

just don't force the safeties out. they just need the spring lifted off the notch and then be rotated up and pulled out by hand. :)

Edited by BeerBaron

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So I started out with a CZC SP-01 Shadow Target and cleaned up the last few remaining surfaces that were listed here and installed the pre-B disco. I still have a slight scrape/rub somewhere at about the half way mark of the trigger pull. It is still very smooth and I only notice it when I pull the trigger very slowly and listen/feel for it. Its really only a slight difference but in my friends gun with 20k rounds the pull is smooth the entire length of pull.

Is there anywhere I should go back and check that would only affect the middle of the pull and only cause a slight scraper/rub?

Thanks

Did u polish the under side of the sear ? I have seen a few that are quite rough.

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I learned something interesting about the shadow orange/shadow mate. When I pulled mine apart I found they had polished the underside of the sear at the factory. was basically a mirror finish. nicely cut blade too and no camming on the hammer. best fitted sear/hammer I've seen on a factory CZ UB built shadow. I guess when they fit the race hammer at the factory they take some time to really fit the sear nicely. not quite what I'd call a trigger job (as some claim the orange comes with) but it certainly helped. :)

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funnily enough I took them off straight away and have never used them. partly because I knew they'd be too thin (have the CZ UB thin grips on my other shadow) and to keep them nice and new. I use the DAA thick grips, or the plain ugly rubber grips. :)

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funnily enough I took them off straight away and have never used them. partly because I knew they'd be too thin (have the CZ UB thin grips on my other shadow) and to keep them nice and new. I use the DAA thick grips, or the plain ugly rubber grips. :)

Sooooo how do I get you to sell them to me?!?!?

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I get a lot of questions about short reset disconnctors so here's a little guide:

Cajun Gun Works offers three discos: type 1, 2 and 3; don't ask me why they're numbered the way they are, but in order from shortest reset to longest:

Type 3

Type 1

Type 2

The Type 3 must be fit to the Shadow, the Type 1 is the "drop in" for the Shadow and can be hand fit to the SP01/75B and the Type 2 is "drop in" for the SP01/75B.

CZ Custom sells a "pre B" disco which is similar to the Type 1.

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I get a lot of questions about short reset disconnctors so here's a little guide:

Cajun Gun Works offers three discos: type 1, 2 and 3; don't ask me why they're numbered the way they are, but in order from shortest reset to longest:

Type 3

Type 1

Type 2

The Type 3 must be fit to the Shadow, the Type 1 is the "drop in" for the Shadow and can be hand fit to the SP01/75B and the Type 2 is "drop in" for the SP01/75B.

CZ Custom sells a "pre B" disco which is similar to the Type 1.

Thanks for the info as always Atlas.

For a SP01 non shadow wold you recommend the type 1 or pre-B?

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For a SP01 non shadow wold you recommend the type 1 or pre-B?

I've done what you describe with the Type 1, but never with the pre-b so I can't speak with authority; the CGW is $38 and the CZC is $55 if that does it for you.

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On 9/5/2014 at 0:52 PM, zhunter said:

Please describe the fitting process of the CGW Type 3

The area behind the wedge must be filed down:

IMG_20140123_233242_863_zps3acfbf61.jpg.5d5b26b5ea635a75a6d5fa678668d67f.jpg

Edited by kneelingatlas

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When you say chuck the firing pin up in a drill and polish it with sand paper, are you talking about half A or half B in the picture. I'm assuming just A, but figured I would ask.

CZ%20Firing%20Pin.jpg

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New-ish CZ shooter here, and let me just say THANK YOU for posting all this...

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Thanks! More questions I'm sure to come, but here's another one right now. Is it beneficial to polish the grooves on the firing pin? Or only the areas that contact, e.g. the outside of the firing pin and the firing pin channel.

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Well then polish it up! The front notch is where the firing pin slides past the roll pin and the rear notch is where the block goes up and down.

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