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I snapped one just installing the sear spring pin. Lost one when it launched across the room (later found). I keep 6 on hand now...

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My PO1 is currently without the FPB due to the fact that I installed a Disco Type 1

I wonder if it would still reset with the FPB installed ??

Or perhaps just a bit of filling will do

I am curious about that as well but not enough to replace the type 2 disco. ;)

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One thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread is adjusting the trigger bar spring (the spring that pushes up on the underside of the trigger bar). I did the work in this thread, and ended up with a false reset that would drop the hammer in single action without moving the firing pin block to let the firing pin move. I noticed this while hand fitting the short reset disconnector.

After talking with David at Cajun gun works the solution was to adjust the spring so that it rides in the indentations in the bottom of the trigger bar. The left side needs to just touch the trigger bar, the right side should be 1/8 to 3/16 above the bottom of the trigger bar. This fixed the false reset.

I had not touched the spring while doing the work, since I did not put in an extended mag release.

Edited by bthoefer

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This may have been answered, but how much did the back of the slide get rounded? is it like a 45* chamfer, or just enough to break the sharp edge?

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This may have been answered, but how much did the back of the slide get rounded? is it like a 45* chamfer, or just enough to break the sharp edge?

I round the center channel off, where it impacts the hammer on slide action. It's not like a angle, per se, it's more of just a rounding of the edge. Just a simple smoothing of the corner won't really do a whole lot, but elongating that edge to a slow smooth curve will help.

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Assembly question:

Do you use a lube upon re-assembly? Such as between all the parts you've polished? If so, what lube.

I used some Slide-Glide when I put mine back together and now I'm wondering if that's just going to attract a lot of dirt.

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Assembly question:

Do you use a lube upon re-assembly? Such as between all the parts you've polished? If so, what lube.

I used some Slide-Glide when I put mine back together and now I'm wondering if that's just going to attract a lot of dirt.

I do the same.

Not anymore than oil would. Just don't go full retard.

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I saturate the parts in synthetic automatic transmission fluid before reassembly :ph34r:

Do you do your gunsmithing in a ventilated shed far away from everyone else? ATF smells absolutely terrible; I can't imagine having that smell in my house. I already use a dual cartridge respirator when I use a copper fouling removal agent.

Edited by SubOrbital

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ATF doesn't smell that bad unless you have a volume of it or it is used. In fact the smell from my Slide Glide is far worse than ATF. In fact any tube of grease when you pop it open is worse.

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Thank you to all who contributed to this thread. Bought an SP-01 two days ago, pulled it apart and polished everything with the exception of pulling apart the sear cage yesterday. Waiting till I get parts from CGW after Christmas. All the grit in DA is gone. Went out and put 250 rounds through it with out issue today. Loved it. BTW I have only been shooting for about a month and never had a gun apart before. This is great info.

Thanks again.

Matt

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The sear cage is an invention of the Devil, meant to frustrate people who know how to detail strip 1911's and Glocks. :) I only lost the little FPB lifter spring twice. I found it both times, so didn't need to use my only spare. ;)

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A little out of topic but I have a mission..... a friend trusted me with his 75B Omega and wants a trigger grit free and smooth as my Shadow...... lets see if miracles are still posible ... ;-)

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I just did this on my SP-01. I installed the SRS-2 kit, CGW Type 2 disco, CZ Comp Hammer, original 85 trigger, shadow mag release, stainless steel brake, 11lb recoil spring, and the 11.5lb hammer spring. Everything seems to work as far as the DA/SA goes but the safety will not switch to safe when the gun is cocked. It looks like the "leg" of the sear will not raise high enough clear the hump on the safety. What could be the problem and how do I correct it?

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^^^ If you Compete leave it like that.....My Shadow is like that and I have NOT accidentally clicked the safety while shooting a stage ; )

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^^^ If you Compete leave it like that.....My Shadow is like that and I have NOT accidentally clicked the safety while shooting a stage ; )

I agree with this ^^

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The gun is a comp gun, I just wanted to make sure I didn't mess something up with the hammer or sear, do you normally have to fit the safety after installing the comp hammer? As a production gun doesn't the primary safe have to function?

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The Safety "still works" .... its just tight. ...... leave it like that

I have seen guys cursing because they accidentally clicked the Safety on while shooting

Edited by emjei

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Having to fit the sear / safety interface is a common requirement and not that difficult. There are numerous internet tutorials and videos to show you how. I changed the hammer on one of my guns and had a friend show me how with five minutes of Dremel time. Most of the advice here is to fit the sear and not the safety which is the option some choose.

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Mine was set up just like yours and I ended up getting the CGW adjustable sear to correct it. Not only does it restore the use of the safety it also gives the trigger added smoothness and better function.

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Thanks everyone, I feel much better now since this is my first CZ and never have done a trigger job on one.

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^^^ are you happy on how smooth it feels ??? If so Shoot that baby and WIN !!!!

Edited by emjei

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