swhiteh3

I've gotten absolutely insane levels of accuracy out of the Volquartsen rifles and pistols I've shot. I'm building a Volquartsen 10/22 in a Victor Co Titan stock because I've been so blown away by how well their guns shoot. I'll be using it in rimfire tactical matches.

Thank you all for the suggestions. Once he got in there with an allen key, he found one or two of the bolts were only snug, and once he tightened them down, the behavior went away. So it was the simplest fix possible, which is nice. I was surprised that it was a loose mount, given that it felt rock solid to my hands, but as my00wrx1 suggested, it could still be an issue even when it feels firm. Thanks to all who helped with suggestions!

I use the Frankford Arsenal lube when I load 6.5 Creedmoor match ammo. I put 50 to 100 pcs in a Zip Lock bag, spray about three sprays in three, and gently roll them around. I keep the bag rubber-banded to the side of the lube bottle, so I don't go through all my wife's 1-gallon freezer bags. :-) I believe the Frankford Arsenal lube is the same as the Dillon, but I'm not 100% sure. I do usually spray one spritz of it inside the die before I start, making sure to get the expander ball lubed up before I start, since the one thing that does not get lubed in my above method is the inside of the case neck.

I'm writing this for a friend who is not on this forum. The other night while I was there, he was evaluating a used CZ Czechmate he had come across. He had two 9mm major loads worked up for it, and chrono'ed them both. The gun was running well. After chrono'ing the two lots of ammo, he went about accuracy testing the gun, and the targets consistently came back with two groups on them - one in the center of the target, and one 4-5 inches high (this is at 30-40'). We transferred to shooting off a bag, and the same thing happened. Both lots of ammo did the same thing. So I took the gun, and it repeated for me off the bag. I tried shooting offhand standing, and it did the same thing. I tried a lot of my 9mm minor Production ammo, and it did the same thing. Interesting, when we watched more carefully, the impacts alternated from "true" POA to a few inches high *EXACTLY* every other shot. It's the craziest thing I've ever seen. We shot over 100 rounds through the gun on paper, two different shooters, two different positions, three different ammo lots, and EXACTLY every other round goes high. The C-More *feels* firmly mounted, but we did not have metric allen keys to confirm. Everything felt rock solid though. Slide lock-up felt good. The gun ran great. Any suggestions? Has anyone ever seen this kind of issue?

The more I shoot mine, the more I realize that my gun does not fit me well. When I first shoulder it, I see too much of the top of the rail, so putting the dot on a target and pulling the trigger will always send the shot high. I've dropped the comb as much as the stock spacers allow, and it helped A LOT, but it's not enough - I need more. Any ideas?

Thanks for asking. Yes, the gun shot flawlessly. The driver? Not so much! :-) Seriously, it fed just fine. I put a chamfer on the follower, but it's so thin you can't get too aggressive with it. I'm planning on buying an aftermarket follower that I can put a generous radius on. And of course, that helps the follower move freely but does not keep a shell from hanging up on the lip, so after the match I took it apart again and chamfered the magazine tube a bit more and polished it. It's far from perfect. It's amazing frankly how bad the inside diameter mis-match is between the magazine tube and the extension tube.

Well, I've never had an issue with this before om live-fire, but tonight while servicing my shotgun, I realized that my follower does not drop freely down all the way. It stops at halfway (the joint between the magazine and the extension) and usually "bounces" the rest of the way down. Obviously, not ideal. I can't tell where the bind is coming from. I've slightly polished the leading edge "corner" of the follower, and cleaned up the leading edge of the magazine tube, with no improvement. I've also played with different "torques" on the locking nut. Looking down the tube, I can't see anything obvious. Any ideas? I have a match on Saturday... and I'm a little concerned how it's going to run. -Scott

I'm getting ready to my CZ cerakoted. It's being done by a reputable shop, and I assume they know what they're doing, but I hate not knowing myself. So if you're going Cera-kote a CZ75 SP01 Shadow Custom, what needs to get done to it before hand. What do I need to talk to them about, or make sure they are going to do? Obviously a detail strip, but are there any special precautions I should take? Anything specific need to be masked off? What about surfaces like the rails, the frame where the disconnector rides forward and back, or the underside of the slide? I plan on removing the front sight, but leaving the rear sight on the gun. Or can I just pull the fiber on the front sight and leave it on too? Thanks. Scott Whitehead

+1 for Scott's detent springs!

I shoot with a group of about a half dozen production shooters. All of us shoot CZs, and we have a mixed of Shadow Customs, Modified Shadow Customs, and Cajunized Decocker Guns. One interesting thing is that the trigger pull SOUND is much different between the them. All the safety guns have a springy, bouncy, reverby sound when you pull the trigger in SA. The Cajun Decocker guns have a much more solid thud sound. I'm not sure what accounts for the difference, and I'm even less sure that it matters at all. But in dry fire the difference is very pronounced. Scott

I struggled and struggled with this. Finally last night I went with the nuclear option. I removed the rear sight and cleaned the dovetail and sight. Then I put the slide on the mill and put a smal drill point cut into the dovetail exactly where the set screw sits. So now the set screw has a tapered hole to sit in, and it positively can not move without the set screw backing out. I used Loc-Tite Green, #609, in the dove tail, and Medium / Blue Loc-tite on the set screw. I also went with a slightly longer set screw - 1/4" long. (Be careful of choosing Loc-Tite based on color. There are multiple green formulations, including, for instance, the Wicking Green. The #609 is the press fit Loc-Tite. I did NOT use the Loc-Tite surface prep - I didn't have any handy. I just cleaned the surfaces very well in a parts washer, then went back over them with brake-clean to remove all oil residue.) Hopefully, I never have to think about being at a match shooting left again because my sight was walking. (My sight **ALWAYS"" moved left.) Scott

Wow. No one using this belt yet?

I already have +10% springs from CZC in all my mags. I assume these springs are the same, and I could just get the follower? That follower looks like it would be really prone to tipping. Is it as reliable as the stock follower?

INERTIA- The matches we have locally do not use normal 3-gun rules, and have no mag length limit. That said, I COMPLETELY agree with you about running out-of-class-gear. My main focus is USPSA, and I see it there often. I have not fully researched "real" 3-gun gear rules, but if they would require a short base pad, then I might just get the short basepads because I do eventually plan on competing at sanctioned 3-gun matches.

Thanks for the replies! I was a little confused about how the CZ Custom basepads work, but after re-reading their descriptions, I realized that the lengths and capacities they quote are for two different magazines, which is why they seem to conflict. When you say Long Base pads and "18rd tubes", do you mean the SP01 factory magazines (not the Mec-Gar) that come with the small extended basepad? So, for those of you who have been there, done that, it looks like I need ALL of the following to make this work.... http://czcustom.com/cz75-extended_base_pad_long.aspx http://czcustom.com/czctsand75follower.aspx http://czcustom.com/CZ-75-SP01-9mm-19-rounds.aspx http://czcustom.com/cz75magwellidpa.aspx http://czcustom.com/CZ_75-CZ_85-thin-silver-grips-short.aspx http://czcustom.com/cz75fullsizemagwellplug.aspx

I have a CZ75 SP01 Custom I use for USPSA Production. For right now I have no back-up gun, so I'm wanting to use this gun for 3-gun as well. So I'm looking for a magwell that is an easy install / removal (since it will come on and off often) and three extended base pads that will hopefully get me to around 24 rounds without looking ridiculous. I am currently using the Factory CZ 18rd magazines. Suggestions? I've seen the CZ Custom basepads, but I think they only get me two more rounds, and are quite pricy. Thanks.

I've been using a CR Speed belt for a while now, and have no complaints about it to be honet, but some recent weight loss means I need new belts. I've been entertaining the idea of a Guga Ribas through Ernie Hill. Heard a few really good things about them, but was wondering if others had experience with the MTP (polymer insert) or MTS (steel insert) belts? I see some discussion of their holsters of Limited / Open, but I'm just looking for input on a belt for a Production rig. Any thoughts, comparisons to other belts, or comparison between the MTS and MTP?

Anyone know if this release is truly a drop-in? It sounds like it includes a pre-drilled stock release, so if you can tear your gun down and clean it, you can easily install this. Is that the case? http://www.gggaz.com/mossberg-930-tactical-bolt-release-pad.html

Practice in dry-fire first, to make sure you know how much tape you need, and to get comfortable with shooting with both eyes open. It took me a month or more of nightly dry-fire pracitce to build the subconcious trust in shooting with both eyes open. Scott

Any updates or pictures? I need a 3-gun holster for my CZ75 SP01 Custom. Thanks!

Dragging this thread up from the dead. I'm building a mid-range precision match rifle in 5.56. This is mainly a precision rifle - 90% of my shots will be out past 100yds, and many out to 600yds, as a "Secondary" shooter in a sniper team. (They also throw in some short-distance / CQB / Squad Protection / 3-gun type stuff). The rifle will be built with a 18" barrel (match limit), mid-length gas system, adjustable gas block, and rifle length buffer. I'd like to run the XLR Tactical Buttstock, and they recommend the carbine length buffer tube for that on AR15 rifles. Since this is mostly a precision rifle where a few hundredths of shot split time are not important, but being able to take a precise shot and watch through the scope as the shot is fired is CRITICAL, would a heavier buffer typically be desired? If I have to move to the carbine length buffer tube, which buffer spring / tube / buffer weight is most likely to be correct? Should I start with a typical carbine tube / carbine spring / "H" buffer?

Mine definitely switch too. Not completely switch, but I can watch them fighting for dominance. I use a black tape square now on my non-dominant eye (might try scotch soon). I dry-fired with it a LOT before I brought it to a match, and so far it's working (I think). I wish I could video myself to see if I'm still closing my left eye.... But i don't think I am.

I completely agree with B45C22s comments - It's a great facility, but whether it's an Area 6 or National level match, they should be more centrally located.

+1 on the Nitro-Fin!

I'd be more open to the new site if the forum engine itself didn't suck so hard. No search engine (without finding all sorts of sports links). No way to follow a thread, or get notifications of activity in a thread. There are SO MANY features that have come to be "industry standard" for forums that this one does not have. If they can fix those things, they have a chance of recovering from the current loss of readership... In the meantime, I'm frequenting other forums looking for my information.