vixty Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Yeah I'm not sure if slide glide is considered a synthetic grease or not but it does attract dirt pretty easily which is why I'm looking for something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brisix Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 I have had success with Weapons Shield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthoefer Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 I have had success with Weapons Shield I keep hearing good things about Weapon Shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I ended up getting slp2000 hopefully it works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tha1000 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Question for the professor. Do you prefer to file on the safety or the sear when the safety lever won't rotate with a new czc comp hammer? It'll engage at half cock, but not at full cock or hamme down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 The safety is easier, the sear is cheaper if you go too far, the choice is yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tha1000 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Ha, I'm all about easier! Do you have a pic of where to file on the safety? It's an 85 combat, if that makes a difference. I know where to file on the sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) Why I just happen to have a picture handy! Edited July 12, 2017 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tha1000 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I'm assuming that filing on either one will probably lead to an inoperable safety with the ring hammer should it ever be reinstalled? Not that I think that is a high probability outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tha1000 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 And thank you for your time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hercster Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I'm a rookie in most ways having started when many people give up and take up Bridge. After I bought my Limited Custom Xtreme, I fell in love with the Tanfo platform and with muchas gracias to this forum, began a series of adventures by buying a Limited Pro and upgrading it with Xtreme parts and a few from Henning. Happily, with some continued help from certain members, I learned that slow and steady wins the race and that sometimes two or three file strokes can scrap a part. So while fast and easier has some attraction, low and slow provides for much more in the way of learning experiences. Learning how these thing work and then improving performance is very gratifying. After gaining confidence with the Tanfo experiences, I returned to the 1911 and bought two project guns and the tools recommended for modest upgrades and a careful DIY trigger job on both 1911's while keeping my NightHawk as the model. Once again, low and slow delivered very good results and only one of two misfits that qualified as learning experiences. I can't exaggerate how much these forums have added to my shooting lifestyle. While we don't want to succumb to paralysis from analysis, in these games the tortoise usually wins the race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 The Type 1 is almost a drop fit part. The Type 3 is oversized so you can fit it to your particular setup. The typical way to know is to take off a small amount, reassemble and test. You will probably do this a few times until you are satisfied. The underside of the ear may need to filed down a touch as well. Well most people file the flat portion that touches the trigger bar. I do it backwards and file the trigger bar where the disconnector touches because I am silly like that. I forgotten how the disconnector works exactly but that is not really important to know to in order to do the installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tha1000 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Why I just happen to have a picture handy! Worked like a champ. Thanks professor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Question for Atlas. I know its not a cz but have you played with a SAR k2 .45 at all? I believe the internals are along the lines of cz/tanfoglio. it doesn't have a bad trigger stock but I'd like to improve it a little if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Question for Atlas. I know its not a cz but have you played with a SAR k2 .45 at all? I believe the internals are along the lines of cz/tanfoglio. it doesn't have a bad trigger stock but I'd like to improve it a little if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Sorry, I haven't laid hands on a Sar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Okay thanks, does this show you enough to know if reading about cz trigger is even a good place to start? k2_explosion.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Oh yeah, it looks just like a Tanfoglio. Do everything in this thread, then polish the hell out of the trigger plunger (33), just make sure when you pull it out you're covering the hole in the mag release You should be able to replace spring #31 with a CGW reduced power trigger return spring,#39 with a CZ sear spring, #13 with a 10-11# recoil spring, spring #34 with a CGW reduced power firing pin return spring for CZ, and replace the hammer spring (43) with a 13# spring for Tanfoglio (the reduced powder firing pin spring for a Tanfoglio should work, but as far as I know EG in France is the only one who carries them so it might not be worth it, maybe get a 15# hammer spring too...); those will give you a smoother DA Edited July 31, 2015 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hercster Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 If I recall correctly the SAR is made in Turkey and is almost a total copy of Israeli Jericho 941's . I remember reading that the Turkish guns are very well made and highly regarded. I believe that they are the side arm of several militaries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 The Caniks are very well made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Awesome thank you very much! 10-11 lb recoil spring for a .45? Not sure what stock is but I'd guess 18 or so pretty heavy. Right now the da is 10lbs sa 3.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 I don't think you'll hurt it, but you could go heavier if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Ok I'll try it out, now I just need to order some parts and get brave enough to tear it all apart. Would cgw have all those parts? Reading through a bunch of threads my trigger pulls are a lot lower to start with I'm wondering if some of my springs are lighter to begin with? Or the internals are finished better? Edited August 1, 2015 by Garmil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 These will come from CGW: "replace spring #31 with a CGW reduced power trigger return spring,#39 with a CZ sear spring, #13 with a 10-11# recoil spring, spring #34 with a CGW reduced power firing pin return spring for CZ" The short hammer springs will come from Wolff and the reduced power firing pin return spring from France is probably not worth the shipping if you have nothing else to buy, besides, you may not need it if you're not getting light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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