CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

[eerw]

any change in sear?

any chance you still have the factory trigger pin?

also you said only happened after you changed the hammer.

did you have all the other parts installed, and gun was functioning fine? then changed the hammer?

thanks

Edited June 7, 2016 by eerw

[vtecpaoche]

I started filing on the sear that contacts the safety but changed to file on the safety instead. I still have the factory trigger pin.

It was functioning fine before swapping the hammer. The other parts were functioning fine before swapping the hammer. After swapping the hammer, the only changes were to the sear and safety where I removed just enough material for the safety to engage.

One other thought was that while fitting the safety, I could not pull the trigger in SA even if the safety was no engaged. Maybe I took just enough material off the safety so that it can engage but not enough for the sear to allow the hammer to slip in SA. Would that be possible?

Edited June 7, 2016 by vtecpaoche

[vtecpaoche]

Update on my issue. I took just a little bit more off the safety and the hammer drops on SA now.

[Tok36]

Update on my issue. I took just a little bit more off the safety and the hammer drops on SA now.

Glad you found a fix, thank you for the update.

[Brucenterry]

Thanks for everyone's input on tuning a CZ.  I bought an SP01 (w/ D'Cocker) after shooting a friends who had it worked on by CGW. I called CGW and they recommended the Pro-Package since I want to shoot Production.  After reading and watching video's, I've successfully polished and installed all the parts.  I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but I'm extremely pleased w/ the SA pull weight but wish I could get the DA just a little lower.  I know going too low on DA can cause light primer strikes but what can I polish/replace to reduce the DA weight a little more?

Thanks in advance,

Bruce

[biglou13]

what # hammer/main spring are you running?

i polished hammer strut but didn't feel much difference.

not really a solution but  i dry fire frequently with 13.5# spring.   but go to range with 11 or 8.5   i feel like the 8.5  is too light  and find myself discharging when prepping

next thing is to shoot  D/A with a timer

 

 

Edited August 14, 2016 by biglou13

[bowenbuilt]

I think the Pro Package comes with a 13# main spring. I guess he could go to the 1200 spring (11.5) and adjust the trigger bar spring for the absolute lightest if all the polishing has been done.

[Brucenterry]

Biglou13...Yes, I have the 13# hammer spring that came w/ the Pro package.  Maybe I'll try the 1200 (11.5#) to see if I get light strikes. 

bowenbuilt....what adjustments need to be done to the trigger bar?

Edited August 15, 2016 by Brucenterry

[biglou13]

I know some people run the 8.5 spring  and have no issues.     I have all three.   I did have some light strikes with 8.5 but I think it was a bad batch of primers.    I like the feel of 11.5 and never had light strikes for any primers , so far  

As far as I know and did .....trigger bar.... Standard polish job....  also look where the trigger bar spring rides the trigger bar. I did most of Trigger bar polish with a high grit stone.       

Lt  wt trigger spring will drop pull easily .... Plus there is that new trigger spring....

Edited August 16, 2016 by biglou13

[Maxamundo]

just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread

[SergioSF]

On 8/14/2016 at 4:57 PM, bowenbuilt said:

I think the Pro Package comes with a 13# main spring. I guess he could go to the 1200 spring (11.5) and adjust the trigger bar spring for the absolute lightest if all the polishing has been done.

Can anyone please elaborate on that? How do you adjust the trigger bar spring?

Thanks!

[vtecpaoche]

22 hours ago, SergioSF said:

Can anyone please elaborate on that? How do you adjust the trigger bar spring?

Thanks!

You'll have to go thru this thread.

 

[SergioSF]

Aha thanks! Some good reading there. 

[Blue Jacket]

New question for Kneelingatlas or any of the other CZ experts.  I have seen a couple of exploded views that show 2 safety detent springs one the right as well as left.  Which is correct?  Just a single on the left?

BTW Its a standard SP-01.  I know I put two in when I last had it apart last time, but getting that right one in about drove me craze.  I will be putting in a CGW Type 2 Disconnector so it will be coming about again and I just wanted to make sure on that spring since it was soo difficult.  

Thanks

[kneelingatlas]

There are two kinds of ambi safeties on CZs:  "D Style" and "Tumbler Style", the SP01 comes with the D style, the 75B SA comes with the tumbler style.  The tumbler style has two spring detents, the D style only has one spring loaded detent on the left side and a little tab without a spring which hooks under the right side safety

[GringoBandito]

This is an awesome post!  Thank you Kneeling Atlas!!

I stumbled across this thread after buying an SP01 and CGW production legal kit. I Ended up with a nice 2.5 LB SA trigger but the DA is still pretty stiff at 8+lbs..It is smooth but is just a stiffer trigger than what I anticipated. I did all of the polishing as listed in the thread...I am wondering if I missed something that effects the DA pull weight?

[Tok36]

42 minutes ago, GringoBandito said:

This is an awesome post!  Thank you Kneeling Atlas!!

I stumbled across this thread after buying an SP01 and CGW production legal kit. I Ended up with a nice 2.5 LB SA trigger but the DA is still pretty stiff at 8+lbs..It is smooth but is just a stiffer trigger than what I anticipated. I did all of the polishing as listed in the thread...I am wondering if I missed something that effects the DA pull weight?

What weight hammer spring are you running? Installing a reduced weight hammer spring can reduce the DA significantly.

[teros135]

6 hours ago, Tok36 said:

What weight hammer spring are you running? Installing a reduced weight hammer spring can reduce the DA significantly.

Also a reduced-weight trigger return spring.

[GringoBandito]

Thanks for the replies. I am using the springs that came with the CGW kit...The hammer spring is blue and the TRS is the reduced power spring.

[Tok36]

The Blue CGW hammer spring is 13#. The CGW 11.5 Hammer Spring is worth a try. It is the lowest you can go without significantly limiting your primer type. Edit: in some cases the 11.5# hammer spring can fail to set off the hardest primers, every CZ pistol tunes up a little different. Breaking the pistol in well even after all of the polishing can lead to some small reduction as well. A second pass on polishing is also an option, it is not uncommon that i find some things i missed on the second pass, but this may not add up to a significant reduction. Out of these things i believe the hammer spring has the potential to offer most significant reduction.

CGW 11.5 Hammer Spring (Black)

https://cajungunworks.com/product/hs-12000-black-11-5-hammer-spring/

 

Edited January 19, 2017 by Tok36

[anonymouscuban]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially Prof. Atlas.

I've been on the fence on doing some mods on my SP-01 on account of all this being really new to me but thanks to this thread I just placed an order for the CGW ultra lite kit and the 13# recoil spring. Gonna do some of the polishing describe in this thread too.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[henricvs]

HELP?

First, thank you for posting such good information.  It made my installation go pretty smoothly.  My trigger is fabulous, but my safety will not engage.  I think that the new hammer pushes the sear further such that the little hook obstructs the safety from turning.  Should I file the hook, the safety or the sear?  Or am I doing something wrong?

[clw42]

50 minutes ago, henricvs said:

HELP?

First, thank you for posting such good information.  It made my installation go pretty smoothly.  My trigger is fabulous, but my safety will not engage.  I think that the new hammer pushes the sear further such that the little hook obstructs the safety from turning.  Should I file the hook, the safety or the sear?  Or am I doing something wrong?

You can fit the safety where it engages the sear assembly (easier but more costly if you mess up) or you can fit the sear assembly where it engages the safety (less costly if you mess up, but more of a PITA).

[kneelingatlas]

44 minutes ago, henricvs said:

HELP?

First, thank you for posting such good information.  It made my installation go pretty smoothly.  My trigger is fabulous, but my safety will not engage.  I think that the new hammer pushes the sear further such that the little hook obstructs the safety from turning.  Should I file the hook, the safety or the sear?  Or am I doing something wrong?

 

It's not uncommon for the safety to need some fitting when you install a new hammer, you can file on the safety or the safety leg of the sear, most people file on the sear because it's cheaper to replace if you go too far.  It's a delicate process where not enough and too much are only a few thousandths apart; if you're not comfortable with the tedious process of trial fitting Cajun Gun Works makes an adjustable sear for this application: https://cajungunworks.com/product/as-b/

[henricvs]

2 hours ago, clw42 said:

You can fit the safety where it engages the sear assembly (easier but more costly if you mess up) or you can fit the sear assembly where it engages the safety (less costly if you mess up, but more of a PITA).

Thanks!  That confirms my thoughts.  I've ordered an adjustable sear, but I'm going to try to fit this one first.