best resize die for brass shot with a glock

[RePete]

Case Pro is the best, hard to get and expensive.

Standard Lee Sizing die returns the case to the same dimensions as the Casepro roll sizer........but lots cheaper......

DougC

I use a CasePro100.

The downside of the U-Die is that it doesn't condition the rim and extractor groove like the CasePro.

I tried the U-Die in 40 and it created as many problems as it solved.

[darkhelmet47]

Lee undersize die works great.

[JaeOne3345]

Standard Lee Sizing die returns the case to the same dimensions as the Casepro roll sizer........but lots cheaper......

DougC

This. STANDARD LEE!

I can't remember the last time I case gauged or had a jan due to bad piece of brass. (knock on wood..LOL)

[stick]

Personally, I prefer the Lee Bulge Buster kit and the .40S&W FCD for removing the bulge.

The main thing is: load with what you have and see if you have a problem.

Dillon sizing dies that I have used simply don't size down far enough. I far prefer Hornady or Lee sizing dies.

+1 on the Lee dies. I use all Lee dies in my 650.

[Doc Hunter]

If you are having a problem - look for a fix. Not a problem - well?

[Graham Smith]

I've loaded lots of 9mm and 223 on my dillion 550b. I'm going to start loading 40 and have been told that you need a special die for brass that has been shot thru a glock. Appreciate any advise, thank you.

That's largely an urban myth. Semi-autos like the Glock (and many others) have a slightly looser chamber than pistols used to and as a result you get slightly more case expansion. Unless you are going to be shooting a pistol with a particularly tight chamber or feed (which you can find with some after market barrels) then any full length sizer is just fine.

[Steve RA]

I think the problem - oversize chamber - was worse with the earlier Glocks and has been somewhat alleviated in the later models.

[Agney5]

As much as I would like to believe it isn't a problem anymore, using Dillon Dies does not get the job done for my XDM. So yes it may be better but it is definitely still a problem, at least for me out of a standard XDM.

[Sandbagger123]

Lee dies. Never had a problem with a round not chambering in my 40's when combined with the FCD. I don't even case gauge them.

[Poppa Bear]

One of the best tricks I have found for determining what works is to find a case that does not fully chamber and measure what the OD of the case is where it fully stops chambering. My Glocks are .428" and .4285", my STI is snug at .427". Anything I size will fit my Glocks. I Bulge Bust anything that will be shot out of the STI because if it was shot out of any other gun it will fail to fully chamber up to 20% of the time.

[glc]

I think the problem - oversize chamber - was worse with the earlier Glocks and has been somewhat alleviated in the later models.

I was curious,so I checked the best I could. I have a Gen 4 G23. I can see why I don't have a problem resizing with nothing more than my Dillon dies. There is just about .008-.009 difference between the case and the barrel. I tried to get the dimemsion of the case where the bulge would have been. Cartridge in the pic is a reload. Calipers are at most 1/4" into chamber. I know it's not perfect,but it does show that there is still quite a bit of size difference even in the newer Glock chambers.

Greg

Edited September 10, 2013 by glc

[dtuns]

I think the problem - oversize chamber - was worse with the earlier Glocks and has been somewhat alleviated in the later models.

I was curious,so I checked the best I could. I have a Gen 4 G23. I can see why I don't have a problem resizing with nothing more than my Dillon dies. There is just about .008-.009 difference between the case and the barrel. I tried to get the dimemsion of the case where the bulge would have been. Cartridge in the pic is a reload. Calipers are at most 1/4" into chamber. I know it's not perfect,but it does show that there is still quite a bit of size difference even in the newer Glock chambers.

Greg

Nice calipers

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[RePete]

This is my G35 barrel circa 2007. Well supported.

[MainlineSteve]

My Lee Carbide Full-length Sizer Die recently took a glock guppy (.4315OD) and transformed it into a smiley case (OD .4215), that is, a resized case with a huge smile-shaped slash on the side. Can't use that. Clearly, there is a limit to what a standard die can do to repair a bulge. There was supposed to be a photo here, but something went terribly, horribly wrong...

Edited September 11, 2013 by MainlineSteve

[Bob DuBois]

Shooting a pistol with a tight chamber. This is where the U die shines and more times than not a standard four die Lee carbide set works. I've seen several times when an STI-SVI wouldn't feed and the Lee die set solved the problem. A twenty buck die and only one pass through the press is a heck of a lot easier than bulge busters and two passes through the press. Be sure to lube cases.

Lee's first stage sizing die will size closer to the extractor groove and a little tighter than other brands. Lee's primer punch is a good design and more times than not will push up and not break though it's a good idea to have spares. If it's over tightened it will break.

Lee's seating die has an insert, for a few bucks you can send the bullet your using to Lee and they will make an insert for that bullet. Had a flat one made local and it solved an OAL problem I had in 9mm minor shooting heavier bullets. At present I'm only using the U die in 40 S@W and standard Lee carbide dies in station one on all the pistol caliber I load.

Because of the tighter design you may run just a little slower and your press needs to be in time. Most problems arise when the timing is just a little off.

Prefer Dillon nuts as Lee's are a little weak had to put the lock nut on the bottom of the tool head on my 650.

Stock pistols, Glock's Sig's M@P's etc. should run fine with standard dies. Pistols with tight chambers or aftermarket barrels, Lee is the way to go.

[Buildit2]

I think the problem - oversize chamber - was worse with the earlier Glocks and has been somewhat alleviated in the later models.

I researched this a bit and the issue seems to be based on the gen 3 and earlier glocks that had unsupported bases. Bulges were worse than the gen 4's and there were several reports of cases breaching when refired in the same gun because (supposedly) the bulged area fell into the same unsupported area in the chamber. I have used a S&W SD40VE, Baretta PX4 storm in 40 and an XDm 5.25 in barrel in 40 and have yet to see bulging in the base as bad as some of the gen 3 or earlier glocks. I use the stock resizing die for the Lee Progressive 1000 and have yet to experience issues. But then again I get so much free brass on my range I can afford to reload once and then scrap the cases.

Edited September 12, 2013 by Buildit2

[RePete]

Buildit2:

The picture I posted above is a Gen 3.

Anything shot out of that gun will load and shoot from my STI Trojan.

[splashdown]

It all depends on the gun you're shooting it through. If the loaded rounds pass a chamber check with 100% reliability using your standard loading dies, then you're fine. If your gun has a tight chamber, you might want a full length resizing die. I use the carbide Redding GRx die.

[427Cobra]

Lee FCD with Bulge Buster works every bit as good as the Redding GRX, and costs less than half

[toddje]

Lee FCD with Bulge Buster works every bit as good as the Redding GRX, and costs less than half

Yes. I've also used the EGW "U" die for .40. The only time I seem to have a problem (and it was only VERY occasionally) is taking "Glocked" brass and trying to get it to run in a Sig. With the combination you described, the problem went away 100%.

[bowenbuilt]

I run aftermarket barrels in all my Glocks. Because of this once fired range brass will not chamber in them without being de-bulged. I have the GR-x and the Lee Bulge Buster and they both work equally well in getting the brass back to Factory specs. Once de-bulged I never have to do it again until I get a new shipment of brass. I have both Redding and Lee sizing dies and they both work equally well in sizing the cases down to hold the bullets tightly. As long as you debug the cases the first time and only shoot them in the same gun or the same type of barrel chamber you only have to do it once and you are good to go. Good insurance against any chambering problems and time well spent.

Edited September 27, 2013 by bowenbuilt

[MoBigAl]

I'm using a 550b with Dillon pistol dies. Never had a problem and most of the brass I load is glock'd from 10 years or so ago. Maybe I'm just lucky??

[Baer45]

Standard Lee Sizing die returns the case to the same dimensions as the Casepro roll sizer........but lots cheaper......

DougC

I'm right there with you Doug! I have a Case Pro but after I put a Lee die in my first station, I've never had to use the Case Pro! I could not imagine pushing brass one piece at a time through a special bulge remover die...I'd go nuts unless I only shot a handful of rounds a month...

Hope all is well..c

[TonyT]

I use a Dillon 550 with a set of standard Lee carbide dies in 40 S&W. A lot of my brass comes from police ranges where they shoot Glock's. I shoot my reloads in a DW Pointman, STI Trojan, PO16-40 and CZ-40B as well as a S&W 610 and S&W646. They function with total reliability in those guns.

[feederic]

I always use the u die. I had a bulged case lock my chamber completely at a match when i switched to a standard sizng die. Round Failed to chamber completely. NOBODY COULD GET IT OUT. I had to use wd40 and a large soft face mallet....several times. I had a bright ring on the bottom of my round where the standard sizing die doesn't touch.