toddje

Our 2010 ford flex is Rollin like a boss after 100k with only a set of front brakes and oil changes/tire rotations. I'd recommend it especially if you often have more than 2 adults - the back seat is enormous and has lots of leg room. Third row seat is best for kids.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I think you're loading for accuracy and not to achieve a power factor? If so, I'd be inclined to change bullets to a premium one (as you noted) more than worry about achieving maximum TiteGroup loads. I don't think that .1-.2gr of powder is holding back accuracy. And if I've misread and you are worried about making power factor, I make "minor" power with 3.6gr of Titegroup under a 124gr bullet, so I'm sure at 3.5 you're making power with a heavier bullet. As for 147gr hollow points, I don't know where you can find them in bulk, but: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/346668/hornady-xtp-bullets-9mm-355-diameter-147-grain-jacketed-hollow-point-box-of-100?cm_vc=ProductFinding

This is one of those questions that I think needs more context. What caliber is just the start. Then bullet type, objective (major, minor power or just plinking), powder type, etc.... So in absence of those details I go with SAAMI specs. For .40 I think that's 1.085"...?

I don't think it's a matter of hate or love. It just is. A Lee FCD has the capability, propensity and in fact the intent to squish/swage your soft lead (straight lead, plastic coated or plated) bullet in ways that may have undesirable side-effects (leading, accuracy issues, etc). I personally like the FCD with full jacketed bullets, but that's just me. Back to the "glocked" brass issue, there are several ways to fix it, one is a push-thru die system that Lee sells that makes use of a Factory Crimp Die. If you do this with an empty case (vs. a fully loaded round) you have no issues with your lead rounds. But that Lee die system also works for fully loaded rounds. And then you're back to shoving a soft lead bullet thru the FCD with all the side-effects that casues. The Lee bulge buster system works pretty well but these days truly "glocked" brass is less of a problem (in no small part because Glock fixed the very loose chamber problem years ago). The.40 Glock chamber is still big-ish and causes a smaller amount of "glocking" than it used to.... much smaller, and usually just a well adjusted normal sizing die is all I need to get "glocked" brass to run in my M&P and Sig.

1.155" is pretty long for .40, no? I know the 1911 pattern guys shooting .40 like to load long, but SAAMI spec is 1.120" and 1.135" max. http://saami.org/PubResources/CC_Drawings/C%20and%20C%20Dwgs%20-%20TOC%20-%20Pistol.pdf Other than that I'd try 'em out over a chrono and see where things are.

OK thanks. I got my assembly from them on Saturday. Kind of an expensive fix, but if it works, it's worth it.

Well, I broke down and ordered the whole assembly as you suggested. I hope someone starts making the right spring soon...

Thanks... I think they're actually still a couple bucks cheaper at gregcotellc.com, though. I'm not sure what's up with that site, but he always seems to have stuff in stock...

Resurrecting this thread, please... So if I understand this right, a 6# Glock striker spring is a reliable replacement for an aged M&P45 striker spring? That would be very helpful, since it's apparenlty not a part I can get anywehre but S&W factory... Does anyone have some 'long term' testing/experience with this setup (6# glock striker in MP45) that they can relate? Do I need to plan on swapping out the spring more often, for example?

Right on. Seriously - if you have one that shoots (in stead of patterns) what's not to love? I understand all the newer ones in 9mm are doing fine, though. Haven't heard of the accuracy issues in the new ones, so I'm happy to buy em low.

Well, 4.2gr Titegroup under a 124gr Zero bullet gives me about 135PF out of a Glock 17 - 1.150" OAL, CCI SPP, 1093 Avg, SD=11. I'd try 4.0 or 4.1 and see what you get with your longer barrel, but TG will definitely get you to (minor) PF. Other than being sooty, Titegroup will serve you well.

I think the big question is - why NOT? It's a hobby. And it's not a cheap one, which you already know. So just swap out a Glock or two for an M&P or two and roll with it. The good news is Glocks maintain their value very well, so it's probably going to cost you just a couple hundred bucks to get a holster, mag pouches, extra mags and such to go with your new M&P. I respect Glock for what they've done, and the novel platform Gaston made 30+ years ago, which is in large part copied into XDs, M&Ps and many other handguns today. Those awful, ugly Glock pistols run like an accurate top (until people tinker with them) and there is no better subject for making videos of gun abuse (you know, the ones with overweight guys in camo filling them with mud, sand, water, etc). BUT - we're here to shoot a sport and have fun, and if you like the M&P then go for it. The M&P basically improves on Glock's design (in my opinion) if for no other reason than the grip angle and shape. The hardest part I've found about shooting .45, by the way is BRASS. There are two problems: 1. Almost everyone who shoots .45 reloads, so they darn near grab your brass before it hits the ground. 2. Some manufacturers seem to think it's a funny thing to have small primer .45 brass. Drives me nuts, but the result is that you now have to inspect/sort brass by primer size. Good luck!

Its funny how blasters go in and out of fashion. CZ's seem to be "in vogue" up 'round here right now. I think this is right. Plus guns go in and out of 'fashion' - and S&W has done two things that make people who shoot LOTS pretty mad: 1. Not admitting that they have an accuracy issue and slow-rolling anyone who sent in a gun that needed repair and 2. Playing close to the vest with replacement parts for their guns. Plenty of stories of how they won't/can't sell/ship a regular person a part for one reason or another. OTOH - their stuff seems pretty solid, and especially the new 9mm barrel helps. And it's no secret that Gaston and his gang have their 'idiosyncrasies' as well...

Same experience here... although it was about 25fps in a Glock 22. Anyway, same experience: Bayou is a "bit" faster than plated (i was using Berry's plated vs Bayou)

Here's my load data, but I've had good luck with both Titegroup and Clays. It's not much but you're welcome to it... Specifically 3.5gr of Clays JUST gets me to power factor on a warm day. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aki2Hm6gWcoLdFNfRDdXRTVGeTFxbjgzOHJTckgxZWc&usp=sharing