Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Best AR trigger


torrpd

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got my AR Gold trigger in yesterday and installed this morning. Almost didn't go out with the 90+ degree weather and 90% humidity but hey it's just a little sweat and after dry firing I was really wanting to shot the rifle LOL

Trigger was very simple to install and safety check. Broke very nicely. I am not a two stage trigger guy as I mentioned but this trigger has a very short and light first stage so it's like it's almost not there. Reset is super fast. Firing doubles is easy and fast.

The only thing I have found I am not thrilled with but it's not a deal breaker is that the safety is hard to put on. Well not hard but needs more force than other triggers. Just need to make completely sure the safety is definitely on when dumping the rifle in the barrel. I am not sure if this can be worked on or just the nature of the beast with the trigger's safety features. Any insight?

Selector Force

This problem is caused by the huge variations in AR-15 safety selectors, and to a lessor degree variations in receiver hole locations.

When weapon is set to Safe, there should be at least a playing card width of light showing between hammer and sear. More clearance than this the safety will be overly stiff.

You can address this two different ways:

1: Fit the trigger selector tail to your selector/rifle, .001" of movement on top of rear of trigger tail will result in approximately .004" of movement of the hammer. This information from here and up is from AR Gold trigger paperwork!

2: You could get JP's selector with the screws the set selector engagement.

My 223 rifle had no pull down just engaging and locking hammer when safe selected. In Fire I could see my fire control pins moving in the receiver. Replace AR Gold pins with JP oversize and pins tight in receiver and hammer pulled perfectly down when Safe selected with ideal tension. The pins moving in receiver also was giving me more take up feel than desired, oversized pins corrected this also.

My AR-10 I had to fit the selector tail to get the correct pull down and selector feel. There also is more checks and possible fitting when installing the trigger in 308's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys

I have the Hyperfire in 4 of my rifles and I have never had an issue with the safety engagement. I have shot 3 majors and 15 3 gun nation weekend matches and no safety issues at all.

Palmetto has them for $199 as stated above and I have heard that the website is being updated with new pricing.

Excellent trigger for the cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bearcave thanks for the info. The pins fit fine and no movement. I like the over all feel of the trigger and will practice with it for a while before messing with it. Have a Battle Arms safetyon there so it has a good amount of meat to get my finger on to work the safety so not overly concerned with it. Was more wondering if there was a quick fix people who also noticed this used. I don't want to go grinding on the safety as i would rather take a half second to make sure it's on then run with an unsafe safety in there.

Just to clarify there is no issue with safety engagement. It engages just fine but is a little harder than I am used to. I was playing with it today and it's not too bad. Taking it off safety is pretty easy and it pops right into fire. It's just putting it on safe takes a little more force than my previous ARs.

USMCRET you hear anything about when the 24Cs will be available? Have another AR I would like to try one in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 24C is just out on the market either this week or next. Just put one in a rifle and really like it since I have a flat in all my STI's so the feel on the finger pad is the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you ever run into RO issues with the short throw safety? I.e. an RO claiming the safety is not fully engaged.

i had my lower lasered so the selector points at the word fire. safe should not be an issue, its the same position as a 90 degree safety

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the Hiperfire. I put one in my first build but was a little nervous when I saw the plastic crossbar piece that holds the springs. Loved the 2.5 lb pull though. Put a Gisselle SSA-E in the next one based on recommendations and having 2 stage triggers I love in my bolt guns but I like the Hiperfire much better. Still not sure about the endurance of plastic in the trigger group. Time will tell but feel, pull, reset are very nice and crisp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After breaking my Timney AR15 trigger at the Ruger Rimfire World Champjonship I am no longer impressed with them. The reason why I used it was because I use a plumb crazy lower to make an ultra light rifle and have found that with polymer lowers, the JP (my preferred choice) loose's adjustment after about 500 to 1000 rounds....which can be one practice session.

Gonna try grinding flats on the set screws, and re-install the JP when I get home.

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After breaking my Timney AR15 trigger at the Ruger Rimfire World Champjonship I am no longer impressed with them. The reason why I used it was because I use a plumb crazy lower to make an ultra light rifle and have found that with polymer lowers, the JP (my preferred choice) loose's adjustment after about 500 to 1000 rounds....which can be one practice session.

Gonna try grinding flats on the set screws, and re-install the JP when I get home.

Tim

Could you epoxy a small piece of metal inside the bottom of the receiver for the set screws to contact? I know Timney tells you to put a piece of aluminum in the bottom of polymer lowers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the Hiperfire. I put one in my first build but was a little nervous when I saw the plastic crossbar piece that holds the springs. Loved the 2.5 lb pull though. Put a Gisselle SSA-E in the next one based on recommendations and having 2 stage triggers I love in my bolt guns but I like the Hiperfire much better. Still not sure about the endurance of plastic in the trigger group. Time will tell but feel, pull, reset are very nice and crisp.

There is no plastic parts in the trigger. All metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the JP's. I'm no expert on install's, but I installed the same one twice - two different lowers. It's a single stage. Breaks crisp and has very quick/little reset. I also have a Wilson TTU drop-in in my SBR. It's sweet and very consistent. The JP breaks a little easier for my 3gun rifle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have had JP installed match triggers in all of my 3gun rifles and they have all been excellent w/ no problems. 3lbish crisp and consistent break. I did try a AR Gold in a .308 rifle. Very nice as well, but didn't care for the slight take up compared to the JP. Reset was very nice on the AR Gold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I have a fitted Accuracy Speaks trigger in my 3 Gun rifle, light, single stage and quick reset.

Warning. This is a complaint:

I messed up my install, so I sent my lower and trigger parts to them to replace and install. We'll I got it back and my safety won't go in. I left a message and the dude who "installed" it called me back and basically told me to put a file on it again. What a junk response. Only reason I got this trigger is because it's a colt large pin and cheap on the EE. I would never recommend them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried removing the FCG, installing the safety, then installing the FCG?

No need to file anything, unless once everything is installed, you cannot place safety on safe, with hammer cocked.

Then file the cheapest part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about the hypertouch?

Just picked up the Hipertouch Hiperfire 25C. I am very impresed with it and so is everyone I have let try it. I like that it's a single stage trigger, it just has so much better feel to me being a single stage as opposed to the Gieselle and others.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put one in my first build but was a little nervous when I saw the plastic crossbar piece that holds the springs. though. Still not sure about the endurance of plastic in the trigger group.

???????????

No plastic in my 24C. A magnet sticks to every piece in mine, including the spring yoke.

Pat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my AR Gold trigger in yesterday and installed this morning. Almost didn't go out with the 90+ degree weather and 90% humidity but hey it's just a little sweat and after dry firing I was really wanting to shot the rifle LOL

Trigger was very simple to install and safety check. Broke very nicely. I am not a two stage trigger guy as I mentioned but this trigger has a very short and light first stage so it's like it's almost not there. Reset is super fast. Firing doubles is easy and fast.

The only thing I have found I am not thrilled with but it's not a deal breaker is that the safety is hard to put on. Well not hard but needs more force than other triggers. Just need to make completely sure the safety is definitely on when dumping the rifle in the barrel. I am not sure if this can be worked on or just the nature of the beast with the trigger's safety features. Any insight?

Selector Force

This problem is caused by the huge variations in AR-15 safety selectors, and to a lessor degree variations in receiver hole locations.

When weapon is set to Safe, there should be at least a playing card width of light showing between hammer and sear. More clearance than this the safety will be overly stiff.

You can address this two different ways:

1: Fit the trigger selector tail to your selector/rifle, .001" of movement on top of rear of trigger tail will result in approximately .004" of movement of the hammer. This information from here and up is from AR Gold trigger paperwork!

2: You could get JP's selector with the screws the set selector engagement.

My 223 rifle had no pull down just engaging and locking hammer when safe selected. In Fire I could see my fire control pins moving in the receiver. Replace AR Gold pins with JP oversize and pins tight in receiver and hammer pulled perfectly down when Safe selected with ideal tension. The pins moving in receiver also was giving me more take up feel than desired, oversized pins corrected this also.

My AR-10 I had to fit the selector tail to get the correct pull down and selector feel. There also is more checks and possible fitting when installing the trigger in 308's.

You could also try another safety. The safety that came with my RRA LPK just didn't feel right, didn't have that crisp click I thought it should had. I had a Bushmaster Safety out of a rifle I put an ambi safety on a while back. Tried that one, and it worked much better with the Hiperfire 24C trigger than the RRA one did. Not sure of the RRA was out of spec, or if the tolerances were just to tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm reading this, and basically what I'm getting is the JP trigger is "the standard" by which all others are measured WHEN it is installed by JP Enterprises. My question, then, is am I wasting my money if I buy a JP kit and install it myself?

I've built my fair share of AR's (with stock triggers and upgraded ones, just never a JP yet), and I have to say that I'm not quite sure what fancy mojo the JP staff is doing to a kit that I would hope is good to go out of the box. Maybe that's an indication of my ignorance, which I'm willing to accept with some explanation. The folks who have posted in this thread I'm sure have as much or probably MUCH more experience taking apart and putting together AR's as I do, so why is there such a strong feeling that only JP can do a quality job of installing JP triggers? Is JP busting out files and polishing stones? If that's the case, then perhaps I really DON'T want to get the JP kit if it's that rough out of the box.

Can folks help me understand...?

Thanks,

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm reading this, and basically what I'm getting is the JP trigger is "the standard" by which all others are measured WHEN it is installed by JP Enterprises. My question, then, is am I wasting my money if I buy a JP kit and install it myself?

............

Can folks help me understand...?

Thanks,

J

The JP trigger generally requires fitting to time the disconnector and tune safety engagement AFTER you have set the sear engagement and overtravel to your desired pull weight. (Weight and overtravel are controlled by user adjustable set screws).

If you understand how the AR platform's disconnector and safety operate (and can use a file) you should have no problem with the installation. Just go slow, you can always remove more metal but its hard to add it back.

I like the JP trigger. It does require a bit more fitting than a drop in unit, but it gives me more options in sear engagement , pull weight and hammer spring strength that I can set to suit me.

Edited by GunCat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...