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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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Can anybody guide me through taking out the bolt release button/catch?

Look at TTI'S video on the benelli extended bolt release replacement. It's the same as the m3000.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Much appreciated. TheTacticalBay actually has a video using the M3000 for the install.

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I was glad to help out! My son and I met her at Ironman last year when we shot on the same squad. Super likable and mature young woman. We were hoping to have one of our mag-fed inertia guns available in time for her to use it, but between health problems and the sheer volume of work we weren't able to finish hers in time. She did well, and the Stoegers rocked at Ironman this year! I saw at least 5 MOA Stoegers there, and didn't even get to see half the squads

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ok, so today i had a shotgun only match. 3/4 of the way through a 40 round stage, my trigger assembly falls out along with all the shells in my tube. it appears the trigger block pin walked out. i ended up putting tape on the pin to keep it in. anyone have any experience with this? why did it come out? who should i call. stoeger or Tom at Moa? i ended up with 7 mikes on the stage. i started laughing when it fell out, i looked over at the RO and said "i guess im done."

Edited by stick
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ok, so today i had a shotgun only match. 3/4 of the way through a 40 round stage, my trigger assembly falls out along with all the shells in my tube. it appears the trigger block pin walked out. i ended up putting tape on the pin to keep it in. anyone have any experience with this? why did it come out? who should i call. stoeger or Tom at Moa? i ended up with 7 mikes on the stage. i started laughing when it fell out, i looked over at the RO and said "i guess im done."

Ive had the same issue. luckily the first time I noticed it it was part way out between stages and I caught it before it was an issue. Now i just kept an eye on it and make sure its all the way in when I pick it up.

I'm interested in hearing a solution as well.

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It pretty epic when that happens. In my case the c clip fell out so not only did the trigger assembly fall out, the trigger assembly sent springs everywhere on the stage. Luckily found all the pieces and used a bandaid to hold it together for the rest of the day.

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ok, so today i had a shotgun only match. 3/4 of the way through a 40 round stage, my trigger assembly falls out along with all the shells in my tube. it appears the trigger block pin walked out. i ended up putting tape on the pin to keep it in. anyone have any experience with this? why did it come out? who should i call. stoeger or Tom at Moa? i ended up with 7 mikes on the stage. i started laughing when it fell out, i looked over at the RO and said "i guess im done."

Ive had the same issue. luckily the first time I noticed it it was part way out between stages and I caught it before it was an issue. Now i just kept an eye on it and make sure its all the way in when I pick it up.

I'm interested in hearing a solution as well.

I think I found the problem and the solution. The pin was falling out freely from the trigger asdembly. The small d clip has a notch that the straight edge goes into on the trigger assembly, I pushed the backside of the housing up toward the extractor side and when installed correctly it will protrude through the hole. I believe this holds the pin in place. I reinstalled the trigger group, inserted the pin and I actually felt it lock. The pin doesn't come when I push on it.

Maybe Tom or Pat can give better details, but it looks solid.

On a side note, the m3000 ran great before the stoppage and then again after with a little tape to hold the pin from coming out.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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Remember all the rumors and talk about the M3K coming with a voucher for an extended mag tube?

What ever happened with that, was it not true, any one get one?

I just called Stoeger and she said she never heard of it.

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What MarkCo said ^^^^. On the trigger group pin falling out, the D-clip is the key. Properly installed, the flat leg of the "D" protrudes through the slot in the hammer pivot tube, and retains the pin via the groove that it snaps into. Same as Benelli, Franchi, Remington, and Browning autos.

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Started having randomn extraction issues again. I replaced the extractor with a benalli m2 extractor about a month a go. I have ran 600 rounds thru with no issues. Than it started doing it again every 25 rounds. I pulled it apart and found the edges on the bolt jagged like the post from open class terror showed. I polished the bolt and extractor where the line was but still have the issue. I have the stock stoeger extractor spring in the m2 spring didn't seem to work last time so I went back to the stoeger spring. What should I do? I have a new m2 extractor and spring that I order last time as a spare? The only other things that I could think of is I cut some coils out of the lifter spring a long time ago and maybe it is messing with the timing? But I ran 600+ rounds with now issues. or the ejector is not kicking it out all the way please advise me what to do?

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What does the extraction fail look like? Very specifically, is the round on the lifter pushing up against the bottom of the empty? What is the position of the empty in the ejection port? What ammunition is it occurring with? Knowing what point in the cycle the bolt is letting go is very helpful in diagnosing which part is at fault. Could possibly be the extractor, the ejector, the lifter spring, or the shell catch, or could be a short-stroke. A slo-mo video would be ideal, but even just knowing what the empty looks like when it fails is helpful.

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What does the extraction fail look like? Very specifically, is the round on the lifter pushing up against the bottom of the empty? What is the position of the empty in the ejection port? What ammunition is it occurring with? Knowing what point in the cycle the bolt is letting go is very helpful in diagnosing which part is at fault. Could possibly be the extractor, the ejector, the lifter spring, or the shell catch, or could be a short-stroke. A slo-mo video would be ideal, but even just knowing what the empty looks like when it fails is helpful.

It usually looks like this

I don't know if the round on the bottom is pushing up on the of shell what should I be looking for? I will try to get some slow motion video this week.

post-59916-0-57727700-1440447635_thumb.j

post-59916-0-08928900-1440447706_thumb.j

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Not to change subjects but, does anyone use or recommend Check-Eez for their M3000 or M3K? Im trying to figure if it is a worthwhile add-on.

Thanks

I bought one in anticipation of installing it on a P3K someday. IIRC, it was recommended by somebody named Jesse. I expect to have to drop the comb as low as possible to prevent seeing too much rib with the pad in place.

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Not to change subjects but, does anyone use or recommend Check-Eez for their M3000 or M3K? Im trying to figure if it is a worthwhile add-on.

Thanks

I have one on my M3K and like it a lot. I had a sore cheek the first time I shot the gun, but I adjusted the shims and added the pad and now the gun is much more comfortable to shoot. One thing to keep in mind is that they are not the most durable things. After one 3Gun match mine was starting to get torn up from the gun getting dumped in boxes/barrels. I wasn't throwing it down either, just setting it down fast. I still dig them, but just an fyi.

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Not to change subjects but, does anyone use or recommend Check-Eez for their M3000 or M3K? Im trying to figure if it is a worthwhile add-on.

Thanks

I have one on my M3K and like it a lot. I had a sore cheek the first time I shot the gun, but I adjusted the shims and added the pad and now the gun is much more comfortable to shoot. One thing to keep in mind is that they are not the most durable things. After one 3Gun match mine was starting to get torn up from the gun getting dumped in boxes/barrels. I wasn't throwing it down either, just setting it down fast. I still dig them, but just an fyi.

Did you do the 3/16th thickness or something else?

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Not to change subjects but, does anyone use or recommend Check-Eez for their M3000 or M3K? Im trying to figure if it is a worthwhile add-on.

Thanks

I have one on my M3K and like it a lot. I had a sore cheek the first time I shot the gun, but I adjusted the shims and added the pad and now the gun is much more comfortable to shoot. One thing to keep in mind is that they are not the most durable things. After one 3Gun match mine was starting to get torn up from the gun getting dumped in boxes/barrels. I wasn't throwing it down either, just setting it down fast. I still dig them, but just an fyi.

Did you do the 3/16th thickness or something else?

I have the 3/16th one, but I think I might peel it off and go with the 1/2" one instead.

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Not to change subjects but, does anyone use or recommend Check-Eez for their M3000 or M3K? Im trying to figure if it is a worthwhile add-on.

Thanks

I have one on my M3K and like it a lot. I had a sore cheek the first time I shot the gun, but I adjusted the shims and added the pad and now the gun is much more comfortable to shoot. One thing to keep in mind is that they are not the most durable things. After one 3Gun match mine was starting to get torn up from the gun getting dumped in boxes/barrels. I wasn't throwing it down either, just setting it down fast. I still dig them, but just an fyi.

Did you do the 3/16th thickness or something else?

I have the 3/16th one, but I think I might peel it off and go with the 1/2" one instead.

I have a 1/4" and it's great. At first, I thought it was too thick, but after putting it on and running it I love it. My cheek definitely appreciates it.

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Here is a link to the slow mo videos

This is the most common failure

This only happened once

When I put the m2 extractor spring I had failures nearly every round so I put the stoeger spring back in and a new m2 extractor and was able to run 40 rounds with no issues it seems that once the extractor wears a little bit I have issues again any ideas

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The second video is a short-stroke. The round is coming back just far enough to tip on the ejector then the bolt is running forward without engaging the lifter. Caused by underpowered ammo, lack of lube, or excess friction somewhere in the system. The first vid is harder to diagnose since the bolt handle leaves the screen I can't tell if it is traveling fully rearward. When you pluck the empty shell out, does the next shell lift right up into the chamber? Or do you have to pull the bolt back before the lifter engages? It almost looks like the bolt head isn't compressing fully, and the bolt isn't traveling fully rearward. If you are running ammunition right at the low limit of recoil for an inertia gun, you may have just gotten a case of ammo that doesn't have enough recoil to cycle the gun. What are the specs of the ammo, and does it do the same thing with something like a heavy dove load? If the problem goes away with 1-1/4oz at 1200fps or 1-1/8oz at 1300, then I would suspect a bad lot of ammo. I would especially suspect that if it is Winchester or Rio. I just can't quite read the side of the shell in the second vid.

Edited by openclassterror
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AHA! I watched the vids in full screen on youtube instead of the embedded video here. It looks on the first video like the round stays in contact with the extractor right past the ejector, then comes back forward against the edge of the ejection port. I am guessing that the next round is on the lifter, and pushing up against the bottom of the empty. When you pull the empty out, the next round loads as soon as it is clear, correct? Check the EJECTOR for free movement. It is spring loaded in a track inside the barrel extension, and should move rearward and outward when the shell rim makes contact, then snap forward under the spring's tension to flip the empty out. Make sure the beak of the ejector isn't worn or damaged, and make sure that itmoves freely in its little groove. If it gets badly fouled and quits moving freely, the shell slips over it instead of compressing the spring. These pics show the ejector in both positions.

HOWEVER, the two photos posted before show the bolt fully back, and the shell stopped at the ejector. This is a typical fail-to-extract. It is possible that the extractor is not getting a good bite on the shell rim from the get-go. Could you please post a pic of the extractor cut in the barrel? it is possible that the barrel is forcing the extractor so far out that it is barely catching the edge of the rim when the bolt unlocks, and losing its precarious hold when the ejector makes contact. One pic of the barrel cut with the bolt removed, one of the bolt closed on a round, showing how far the extractor is off the rim when in battery would be very helpful. The bolt and barrel have to be out of the receiver to see these.

post-48876-0-64284000-1440548349_thumb.j

post-48876-0-90537700-1440548362_thumb.j

Edited by openclassterror
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