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I'd also look at the Vortex Viper PST II 1-6x. Both that and the Steiner Px4i 1-4x are both like more affordable versions of the Razor 1-6. They all have the same clean reticle with a daylight bright dot, but the Razor has the best glass and the highest price ($1300), followed by the Viper ($750) and then the Steiner (which you can get with a mount now for about $450). All great options. I shoot the Steiner in 3gun (so does the guy doing the Trijicon review for what it's worth, he's a friend of mine) and it's awesome. If the viper had been out when I bought my Steiner I would have probably bought that. Great bang for the buck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you tumbling or otherwise de-lubing the cases between when you resize them and when you check them in the case gauge? It's not listed in your steps so I thought I'd ask. If you're gauging them while they are still lubed, the lube can make cases stick or it can build up in the case gauge (especially a tight one like the JP) and cause cases to fail the gauge even when they are sized properly.

I used to get very frustrated chasing the BDC on my Razor and trying to do what you are (find perfect ammo). What I found was much more effective was zeroing the 300 hash mark at 300 instead of zeroing the dot at 200. It meant that my 200 yd zero was slightly off, but it was negligible and the accuracy I gained at long range from the holdovers being closer was well worth it. The other benefit is that it helped the longer holdovers with every ammo type as long as she zeroed the 300 hash mark with whatever ammo I was using (55gr, 69gr, etc.). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll echo this 100%. I went from a SE to the Steiner P4Xi as well and shoot better at distance now with the 4x because the glass is better and the reticle lines are finer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The CGW floating trigger pin is a huge help on the removal front as well. I'd definitely get a couple of those the next time you order anything from them.

I used to really struggle with it too. Now I put the trigger in the frame (without the spring in), start the trigger pin and push it through the frame just enough to go into the hole in the trigger and hold it in place. Then hold the trigger spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and push it down into place and hold it while pressing the pin through the spring. Once that's done, everything is held in place and you can just wiggle the trigger and/or spring a bit while pushing on the pin until is slides the rest of the way into the frame. Very easy and eliminates the need for a slave pin or 3 hands.

No, you file the edge on the square shaped portion of the safety bar (that rotates when you move the safety up and down). It's the top rear corner, the one that rotates under the sear when you engage the safety. I'll try to upload a picture if I get a chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had this same problem of 2 CZ's after I upgraded the hammers. Just take a needle file and make 1 or 2 light passes on the corner of the squared off section of the safety bar where it rotates under the sear. That's where it is catching and impeding he function. Don't use much pressure, all you're trying to do is break that hard edge that's catching on the edge of the sear and preventing the safety from rotating under it. It won't effect the function of the safety since you're not removing any material from the top (the part that rests under the sear and keeps it from moving down once the safety is engaged). I'm not exaggerating when I say one or two passes btw. Make one light pass in one direction and see if it works, then repeat. One of my guns only took one pass to get it working, the other took 3. Hope that helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one issue with the Strike Eagle is that the reticle lines are thick, especially on the holdover lines. They cover the whole target at 300+ yards. I switched to a Seiner P4Xi and it's amazing. Has the same reticle as the JM Razor and even though it's only a 1-4x I shoot better at long range with it because the glass is better and the reticle lines are fine. Worth a look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may be waiting until 2018 for a 1-8 Razor. I was listening to a podcast w/a guy from Vortex and he said there was no plan to update the Razor this year. That looks like the case since they are coming out with a 1-8 Strike Eagle soon and the 1-6 Viper PST gen 2 in the spring. Both the Swarovski and the Razor will be a massive step up from the Strike Eagle. Don't get hung up on magnification, glass quality is way more important. A good 1-6 will outshoot a crappy 1-8 all day long. I used to shoot with a Strike Eagle and got rid of it because the reticle is so thick that the holdover lines completely covered the targets at anything beyond 250. Switched to a Steiner P4Xi and even though it's only a 4x, i shoot much better at distance because the reticle is finer (looks like the Razors reticle with a daylight bright red dot center) and the glass is much better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a fantastic scope, but it's not $1k better than the Razor. Personally I would get the Razor, but you won't be displeased with the Swarovski by any stretch. They stopped making the 1-6x because their 1-8x is coming out. A lot of people still want the 1-6 though, so if you buy it and don't like it, you can probably sell it for close to what you paid for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All things being equal, more magnification is better for the long range stuff, at least up to 8 or 10x. The problem is that things are never equal and most people think magnification is the most important thing about a scope (when actually the glass quality matters more) so they buy the highest magnification variable scope they can get. 1-4x used to be the hotness, now everyone is getting 1-6's and the pro level guys have 1-8's. When it comes to variable 1-?x scopes, you are generally paying for the low end and the glass quality. I went shooting with a friend of mine and I had a decent mid level scope (Vortex 2.5-10x PST) and he had some cheap 16x scope. We were shooting at 200yds and I had to tell him where he was hitting because I could see his bullet holes and he couldn't, even though he had a more "powerful" scope. Max range in matches is generally range dependent and most just work with whatever they have. Longest I've seen is 620 yds at Hard as Hell in Utah but my local club shoots to 370. Both are doable with a good 1-4 but are easier with a good 1-6. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check out the Steiner p4xi 1-4x. I have one on my 3Gun rifle and it awesome. Like the Vortex Razor HDII, but only 4x and about $550. Has great glass, same reticle as the Razor and a daylight bright red dot in the center. I switched to one from a Strike Eagle 1-6x and love it. Even though I lost 2x on the top end, I shoot better at long distance with the Steiner because the glass is better and the reticle is much more precise (the reticle lines on the Strike Eagle are too thick so the holdover lines are worthless because they cover the entire target). I have mine in a cheap, lightweight Aero Precision mount and it has held zero since the day I mounted it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I second all of this. I use a p4xi for 3Gun and love it. Used to have a Strike Eagle 1-6x but the stadia lines on the reticle were too thick (it's cheaper/easier to illuminate thick lines). The holdover lines were all too thick to be useful at 6x. Switched to the p4xi and it has been night and day. Better glass, nice clean reticle and daylight bright dot. Even though I lost 2x on the top end, I shoot way better at long range with it due to the better glass and more precise reticle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude I thought about you as soon as the stage descriptions came out. The first thing in my head after reading stage 1 was "thank God that guy didn't listen to me and kept developing his long range load." Glad to hear you got a hit on it. That was our first stage of the match and halfway through my first mag, my rifle completely seized up and wouldn't budge. I had to sling it and shoot the pistol and shotgun targets. Wound up timing out and didn't even take a shot on the 620. I think that was karma kicking me in the butt. I put a screwdriver blade on one of the locking lugs and hammered the bolt forward so I could take the gun apart. Pulled the BCG out and there was a loose primer wedged under the gas key by the cam pin. Just bad luck. Awesome match though. I'm beat up and sore and can't wait for next year!