MarkCO Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 That is looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Yeah, it's aluminum, emery board works good on edges. Those Dremel sanding wheels are awesome-any Ace hardware has a Dremel cabinet with all the stuff. I use all the tools they have, but with steel you need to use the round stones. To finish just go 400, 600, 1500 sandpaper. Makes a really smooth finish and is totally controllable. I don't think it needs to be symmetrical. If your doing quads, where that second two travel should get a nice not quite "groove" all the way out. I've become fan of leaving a little bit of hump in the middle to let those shells split over a little bit. I think milling out may be necessary for high volume shops, but really it's like fitting the shotgun. It's different for everybody. So it needs to be custom made by you or for you. Nice pics. Also, the Vezzoli mod for lifters is great option for not having to have it welded. Love that lots of people are getting into doing this, this is where great ideas come from! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Just worked on the loading port a bit more. Used the sandpaper attachments and they worked great. It was pretty coarse, so it did a decent job at removing material. I might try out this attachment though. What do y'all think? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-9901/202263215 I started with that bit, but it loads up with aluminum quickly and stops cutting. Ended up using these for the majority of the port work on mine: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=408 http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=432 I used both 1/2" and 1/4" bands. Switched to 120 grit to clean it up, then used these, http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=511E to finish things up. I have since removed more material from the front of the port, but this should give you an idea of the results: Thanks for the info. Yeah, I really like the sanding belts so far for opening up the loading port. I just picked up some more (60 and 120 grit). They wear out pretty quickly but they're cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose76 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 That is looking good! Final Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Awesome...time to race it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddywings Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. Waiting for mandatory pictures when it arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 M3K is the worked over competition version. M3000 is the standard. P3K is the signature M3000 trucked out by MOA Precision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) The P3K made its Match debut at the USPSA Multigun Nationals. Ran perfectly! Edited April 29, 2015 by P.E. Kelley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 That is looking good! Final Picture deleted for redundancy reasons, but I was about to ask how far everybody is taking the front of the loading port. I've been using Tom's pictures as a reference point, but yours is pretty aggressive, Moose. I was going to just thin out the metal above the shell catch to prevent hang ups, but is it safe to actually take it back towards the shell catch/hand guard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddywings Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) M3K is the worked over competition version. M3000 is the standard. P3K is the signature M3000 trucked out by MOA Precision. Depending on the M3K once I get it, I may even ship it off to MOA in the off season to have them work it a bit more (convert a M3K to P3K). I suspect while the loading port is opened up, it could always use more as a company doesn't want to remove to much material down there plus MOAs work so pretty! It will be a cost benefit thing and at my level, might not be worth it. I may just see if they'll take the trigger group to work that as I really like what they do with the shell release-that's slick, along with the undercut and trigger Will post pictures. ETA: to clarify for any confusion this is what is being shipped: http://www.eurooptic.com/stoeger-m3000-m3k-3gun-12-gauge-24in-bbl-black-synthetic-31855.aspx Edited April 29, 2015 by muddywings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Everybody isn't taking out the front and cutting way into the magazine tube. I don't and never have and somehow I don't have a issue with loading or finishing well. Each to there own, but cutting into the mag tube makes it easier to get your thumb trapped (you have created a bigger gap to fit your thumb into) And depending on how much you cut, you have weakened the ability for the mag tube /receiver to hold the barrel on the gun! Hog away if you feel you must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Thanks, Pat. I was planning to be pretty conservative with the front of the loading port. I was just going to remove some of the underside to facilitate feeding the shells better. Hoping I don't turn this thing into a club, although that would give me an excuse to buy a new gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose76 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 That is looking good! Final Picture deleted for redundancy reasons, but I was about to ask how far everybody is taking the front of the loading port. I've been using Tom's pictures as a reference point, but yours is pretty aggressive, Moose. I was going to just thin out the metal above the shell catch to prevent hang ups, but is it safe to actually take it back towards the shell catch/hand guard? I think that how far and how much metal you remove from the front of the port comes down to personal preference. For my own loading technique, I found that I needed more room at the front of the loading port to get the shell past the shell catch. I was definitely worried about taking away too much of the lip that holds the follower in. What you don't see is the 5 or 6 times I completely disassembled/assembled the gun to test how it loaded after increasing the size of the port a little bit each time. Here she is in finished trim. Thanks to MOA for the safety and bolt release button, top notch parts. Special thanks to Mark Passamaneck at Carbon Arms for the M3kTube (Awesome!) and putting up with all of my questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) That is looking good! Final Picture deleted for redundancy reasons, but I was about to ask how far everybody is taking the front of the loading port. I've been using Tom's pictures as a reference point, but yours is pretty aggressive, Moose. I was going to just thin out the metal above the shell catch to prevent hang ups, but is it safe to actually take it back towards the shell catch/hand guard? I think that how far and how much metal you remove from the front of the port comes down to personal preference. For my own loading technique, I found that I needed more room at the front of the loading port to get the shell past the shell catch. I was definitely worried about taking away too much of the lip that holds the follower in. What you don't see is the 5 or 6 times I completely disassembled/assembled the gun to test how it loaded after increasing the size of the port a little bit each time. Here she is in finished trim. Thanks to MOA for the safety and bolt release button, top notch parts. Special thanks to Mark Passamaneck at Carbon Arms for the M3kTube (Awesome!) and putting up with all of my questions. That is the right way...sneak up on perfection! Edited April 29, 2015 by P.E. Kelley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSDelta Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. I got a call from a local dealer saying they received some M3K's today. I had seen a Facebook post from Stoeger saying they would be released June/July, so I went ahead and bought a regular M3000 about a month ago. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddywings Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. I got a call from a local dealer saying they received some M3K's today. I had seen a Facebook post from Stoeger saying they would be released June/July, so I went ahead and bought a regular M3000 about a month ago. Oh well. That is where I was. i just gambled in the other direction. This time I actually got it right. That being said, my other option was just to get a 3000 and send it off to have MOA do their magic and that would probably even be a better gun. Edited April 29, 2015 by muddywings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rucker61 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. I got a call from a local dealer saying they received some M3K's today. I had seen a Facebook post from Stoeger saying they would be released June/July, so I went ahead and bought a regular M3000 about a month ago. Oh well. Just picked up an M3K today. Minutes ago, in fact. Time to clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntenseImage Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 I'm wondering which option would be best: M3k, MOA done up 3000, the PK edition (assuming it has something different than their standard work) ... Or sending an M3K to MOA to see how much further they can go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 I would have the M3K (as it has the serial number aft of the loading port) brought up to P3K specs by MOA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddywings Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 My M3k is shipping from EuroOptics. I called them and asked if it was coming from Stoeger or them as I was curious if it was going to be one of those issues where I have a tracking number but no actual shipment for 3-4 weeks. They said they just got them in yesterday and it should be in the mail soon. I got a call from a local dealer saying they received some M3K's today. I had seen a Facebook post from Stoeger saying they would be released June/July, so I went ahead and bought a regular M3000 about a month ago. Oh well. Just picked up an M3K today. Minutes ago, in fact. Time to clean. Well let's see the pics!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddywings Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I would have the M3K (as it has the serial number aft of the loading port) brought up to P3K specs by MOA The serial number placement was the main reason for the m3k for me. Maybe someday I'll upgrade it in the off season. The folks at MOA are probably swamped with orders but would be curiuos if they are one getting m3k shipments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I have an M3k that I have cut deeper due to the serial# and a P3K that MOA cut and I load the MOA faster. Keep in mind I "load 2" strong hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric1231 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Trying to decide which gun to buy m3000 or m3k for my first 3 gun shot gun. If I bought the regular m3000 I would put 75 in MOA parts and do a port job. I seen I get the gun for about 500 so I would have 575 in it plus a port job. Where as if I bought a m3k it would all these options and port job for 600. How good is the m3k port job? Would I need to or want rework it? Is the 24 inch barrel ideal for most 3 gun competitions? Is there any thing else should consider? If the m3k's port job is good enough I will probally go that route and add a tube from MOA. What tube would lenght should I be looking at for tactical optic class. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rucker61 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Trying to decide which gun to buy m3000 or m3k for my first 3 gun shot gun. If I bought the regular m3000 I would put 75 in MOA parts and do a port job. I seen I get the gun for about 500 so I would have 575 in it plus a port job. Where as if I bought a m3k it would all these options and port job for 600. How good is the m3k port job? Would I need to or want rework it? Is the 24 inch barrel ideal for most 3 gun competitions? Is there any thing else should consider? If the m3k's port job is good enough I will probally go that route and add a tube from MOA. What tube would lenght should I be looking at for tactical optic class. You might want to add in the value of the extended chokes that come with the M3K if you would buy them for the M3000. Picture of the loading port: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now