openclassterror Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I did a trigger job on mine. Main issue is geometry. The hook actually cams the hammer back a bit before release, compressing the hammer spring. That is where most of the weight comes from. You have to recut the hook to a neutral angle, and reduce the engagement. However, if you reduce the amount of hook grab you must also grind a little off the disconnector stop to reduce the distance between the primary trigger hook and the disconnector to prevent doubles. Just reducing the trigger spring won't gain much. I took the trigger spring completely out and the trigger still took 7lbs to break! After the rework it is a crisp 4-1/2 lbs. Not an easy job, and probably best left to someone with experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I noticed that about the angle of the hook. I was in disbelief that it cams the hammer down and compresses the spring prior to release. What did yours break at before the trigger job? my kid decided to use my trigger scale to go fishing with and it made it in the water last fall so I haven't been able to guage it, but it feels like a nasty 10+. Also were you able to reduce over travel any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) My trigger pull gage goes up to 8 lbs and it bottomed out. Had to be 10 or so. Overtravel stop is easy. Simply a set-screw thru the back of the trigger guard. Drill and tap a hole (I went 6-32) thru the plastic, below the step on the back of the trigger. Edited February 11, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 My stock trigger is measuring ~7.3lbs on my dig Lyman gauge. It is just a little heavier but less creep than my stock VM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amccallister Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I just picked one of these up used from Gunbroker, got a decent price and it looks almost brand new. However, I was looking at it and discovered that the vent rib has detached from the barrel at the end closest to the receiver. The first two attachment points are completely seperated from the barrel. Anyone know what a good way to reattach it would be? I was thinking about having a buddy put a small weld on each side of the attachment point, or just putting a small bead of JB weld on it. I don't care what it looks like, but I don't want to ruin the barrel either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I think Silver Solder would be your best bet. It would be hard to weld on the barrel and not affect the bore. JB weld might work, but I don't know how well it would hold up over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Is send it to Briley. They ain't cheap but they are good. Your good just got not so good. You might talk to Steve Rose at Rose a Action Sports too. He knows a thing or two about shotguns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amccallister Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Is send it to Briley. They ain't cheap but they are good. Your good just got not so good. You might talk to Steve Rose at Rose a Action Sports too. He knows a thing or two about shotguns. Yeah I don't want to spend money on it if I can help it. I've done my own hack jobs on my Benelli and Versamax, I can't really justify sending off a barrel from a $450 shotgun if I can make it useable on my own. I care less about it looking good than I do just keeping the rib from falling off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Is send it to Briley. They ain't cheap but they are good. Your good just got not so good. You might talk to Steve Rose at Rose a Action Sports too. He knows a thing or two about shotguns. Yeah I don't want to spend money on it if I can help it. I've done my own hack jobs on my Benelli and Versamax, I can't really justify sending off a barrel from a $450 shotgun if I can make it useable on my own. I care less about it looking good than I do just keeping the rib from falling off.Consider sending it to Stoeger. My M3000 came with a "5 year warranty" tag on the receiver.On the other hand, another vote for silver solder if you want to keep it local. Check with your local gunsmith. Edited February 12, 2014 by Ryan N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I would contact Stoeger, rather than pay someone to fix a manufacturing defect. I would advise HEAVILY AGAINST welding on the barrel. However, many aftermarket add-on ribs use high strength adhesive. Main thing is it has to be a flexible adhesive or the hot/cold cycles will break the bond. As I recall the adhesive for the old Walker ribs was from 3M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJW Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The easiest bolt release I've seen is this one that mimics the old Dave's Metal Works tab. I think this one maybe courtesy of KurtM at Red Neck Tactical but i can't see everything on my phone. That is, indeed, the RNT bolt release tab. Does that actually fit on a Stoeger? I use it (and the DMW before it) on my M2, but when I assembled the M3000 out of the box it really looked like there was "stuff" under the forearm that would get in the way of that style bolt release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The easiest bolt release I've seen is this one that mimics the old Dave's Metal Works tab. I think this one maybe courtesy of KurtM at Red Neck Tactical but i can't see everything on my phone. That is, indeed, the RNT bolt release tab. Does that actually fit on a Stoeger? I use it (and the DMW before it) on my M2, but when I assembled the M3000 out of the box it really looked like there was "stuff" under the forearm that would get in the way of that style bolt release. Crap my bad I'm so used to talking about the M2 I forgot that this was the M3000 thread. I know Accurate iron has a bag of these bolt release. I'll take my 3000 over this weekend and try to install one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aleric Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I have seen the 28 in barreled 3000, does anyone know where to find the 24 in version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I just asked Sheels (midwest chain store) and they cant get them yet. I bought a 26" and so far its great. Plus with the 26" you can put a nordic +6 on without it sticking past the end of the bbl. I really dont see a point in having a barrel shorter than the mag. Kinda defeats the purpose of a short handy gun.... Plus you get better pattern with a longer barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDragon64 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 A friend ordered one from his local Stoeger deal er and already has it, Tom's nut, and extended mag tube. I think he received his 24" about 3 or 4 weeks ago now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amccallister Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I would contact Stoeger, rather than pay someone to fix a manufacturing defect. I would advise HEAVILY AGAINST welding on the barrel. However, many aftermarket add-on ribs use high strength adhesive. Main thing is it has to be a flexible adhesive or the hot/cold cycles will break the bond. As I recall the adhesive for the old Walker ribs was from 3M. Well I googled vent rib adhesive, thanks for the idea. Brownells sells some kind of black loctite that advertises being good for glueing on a rib, I'm going to try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmshozer1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I just asked Sheels (midwest chain store) and they cant get them yet. I bought a 26" and so far its great. Plus with the 26" you can put a nordic +6 on without it sticking past the end of the bbl. I really dont see a point in having a barrel shorter than the mag. Kinda defeats the purpose of a short handy gun.... Plus you get better pattern with a longer barrel. Sorry, A longer barrel on a shotgun gives you a longer sight radius and maybe better follow through but not a better pattern. The BB's going down any length barrel are forced into the choke that you have selected The choke, the size of the BB's, the velocity and the type of wad in the shell that containes the BB's are what determines your pattern. Turkey hunting guns have to have a very good, very tight patten. Most of them have 18, 22 and 24 inch barrels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 The choke controls the pattern. The barrel length isn't controlling he pattern. It does add life sight radius Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vista461 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I saw one at a gander mountain in Germantown, WI a month ago. I have seen the 28 in barreled 3000, does anyone know where to find the 24 in version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aleric Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Thanks u for you replys. I will check the local GM. online shows that they have them in camo versions... Eh! The search continues. Thank you again for your help. Edited February 13, 2014 by Aleric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) We have had this discussion before. KurtM set us straight on the reason which is always the opposite of what one would think. And I can't remember why. But A longer barrel with similar choke will knock over steel at further distances. Can't recall if it's velocity, less shot deformation, or what. Part of the reason I'm running a 24" M2, 26" M3000 and a 30" A5 this year is more knockdown for natural terrain matches. Edited February 13, 2014 by Jesse Tischauser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamV Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) I just bought a m3000 and the first thing i did was open the loading port. The you tube video Jesse has was a huge help. If you are planning on doing this i highly suggest you watch his video. I happened to get the 26in so i hope it goes good. Edited February 13, 2014 by SamV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iswope Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I just bought a m3000 and the first thing i did was open the loading port. The you tube video Jesse has was a huge help. If you are planning on doing this i highly suggest you watch his video. I happened to get the 26in so i hope it goes good. Same here. I got anxious and went a little too quick to make it look super sexy but I figured I'm going to be beating the crap out of this gun anyway, dropping it in buckets, etc... so if it's not the purtiest it's okay as long as it's functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iswope Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Here's my port work. Not the best but functional and smooth for load 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangheadhere Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I just bought a m3000 and the first thing i did was open the loading port. The you tube video Jesse has was a huge help. If you are planning on doing this i highly suggest you watch his video. I happened to get the 26in so i hope it goes good. Very helpful videos indeed! Especially the final shots showing the profile and contours in detail. Jesse - did you wind up opening up the port further as noted at the end of the video? If so, can you post some pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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